After virtually no sleep and a very early breakfast and checking out of the Inkaland Hotel, we boarded our bus in drizzling rain for Ollantaytambo to catch the first train to Agua Calliente and Machu Picchu. Exhausted, I slept during the drive to the train station. Drizzle turned to full-on rain as we ate a second breakfast on the Orient Express train and watched the landscape change to more tropical jungle as we dropped in elevation following the Urubamba River downstream.
Once checked into our hotel, a brief nap revived me for meeting the others for lunch — yes, virtually no exercise at this point, but two breakfasts and lunch! Then to the bus stop for an archeological tour of Machu Picchu led by Jose Luis and our guide Merta.
Though I dreaded being at Machu Picchu in the rain, it certainly has its advantages. First, most tourists either decided not to come up to the ruins, or after a short visit decided it was much more sensible to be in their warm hotel, or start early drinking at one of the many bars in Agua Calliente. Second, Machu Picchu is magical as the rain clouds add the element of mystery that is so in keeping with this sacred place.
Once checked into our hotel, a brief nap revived me for meeting the others for lunch — yes, virtually no exercise at this point, but two breakfasts and lunch! Then to the bus stop for an archeological tour of Machu Picchu led by Jose Luis and our guide Merta.
Though I dreaded being at Machu Picchu in the rain, it certainly has its advantages. First, most tourists either decided not to come up to the ruins, or after a short visit decided it was much more sensible to be in their warm hotel, or start early drinking at one of the many bars in Agua Calliente. Second, Machu Picchu is magical as the rain clouds add the element of mystery that is so in keeping with this sacred place.
I was grateful, too, for the previous two visits here, as it was impossible to take notes as Jose Luis and Merta explained about the agricultural area, Temple of the Sun, Temple of the Uhupacha (Lower World), which is my favorite; Temple of Three Windows, and the Temple of Wiracocha.
Since beginning what I consider my doctoral work with Jose Luis — having earned my equivalent of an undergraduate and masters through the Four Winds Society with Alberto Villoldo — I am obsessed with learning, practicing and embodying the cosmology that informs Inka shamanism. So, when we reached the Temple of Wiracocha, I couldn’t stop myself from pulling pad and pencil out to take notes on the significance of the seven niches that represent the seven siawas or luminous markers that describe the principles that inform the Inka worldview.
Jose Luis tells us that Wiracocha, the “Creator of All That Is,” gave instructions to every creature. According to the Creator’s plan, every element of the Universe must follow their specific instructions to maintain a balanced order and to be in right-relationship with each other and the natural world. These instructions establish that all life grows, evolves and achieves natural balance from within, not through external forces. At the heart of these instructions are seven saiwas that form a connecting body of knowledge described as a spiral much like a slinky toy — allowing them to continually grow eating as they embody each saiwa more deeply. Accordingly, these principles serve as conceptual maps to help us embrace our destiny.
An Inka myth recounts that Wiracocha erected seven saiwas on the horizon of Mount Munay, the cosmic staircase that connects heaven and earth. The journey of Andean shaman is to ascend this summit by embodying each of the seven principles. Further, in the Andean cosmology it is known that at birth babies are aligned with the seven markers that lead to Wiracocha (God) energy. However as he or she grows and becomes enculturated with the values and beliefs of the Kaypacha (Middle World in which we live: ordinary consciousness), his or her alignment to the saiwas becomes muddled. As a result, Andean shaman understand our journey in life to be a quest of mastery of all three levels of reality — Uhupacha (Lower World : unconscious reality), Kaypacha (Middle World : ordinary conscious/material reality), and the Hanaqpacha (Upper World : superconscious) — thereby becoming more available to access our destiny.
Since beginning what I consider my doctoral work with Jose Luis — having earned my equivalent of an undergraduate and masters through the Four Winds Society with Alberto Villoldo — I am obsessed with learning, practicing and embodying the cosmology that informs Inka shamanism. So, when we reached the Temple of Wiracocha, I couldn’t stop myself from pulling pad and pencil out to take notes on the significance of the seven niches that represent the seven siawas or luminous markers that describe the principles that inform the Inka worldview.
Jose Luis tells us that Wiracocha, the “Creator of All That Is,” gave instructions to every creature. According to the Creator’s plan, every element of the Universe must follow their specific instructions to maintain a balanced order and to be in right-relationship with each other and the natural world. These instructions establish that all life grows, evolves and achieves natural balance from within, not through external forces. At the heart of these instructions are seven saiwas that form a connecting body of knowledge described as a spiral much like a slinky toy — allowing them to continually grow eating as they embody each saiwa more deeply. Accordingly, these principles serve as conceptual maps to help us embrace our destiny.
An Inka myth recounts that Wiracocha erected seven saiwas on the horizon of Mount Munay, the cosmic staircase that connects heaven and earth. The journey of Andean shaman is to ascend this summit by embodying each of the seven principles. Further, in the Andean cosmology it is known that at birth babies are aligned with the seven markers that lead to Wiracocha (God) energy. However as he or she grows and becomes enculturated with the values and beliefs of the Kaypacha (Middle World in which we live: ordinary consciousness), his or her alignment to the saiwas becomes muddled. As a result, Andean shaman understand our journey in life to be a quest of mastery of all three levels of reality — Uhupacha (Lower World : unconscious reality), Kaypacha (Middle World : ordinary conscious/material reality), and the Hanaqpacha (Upper World : superconscious) — thereby becoming more available to access our destiny.
The degree to which shaman embodies these seven saiwas determines his or her power:
Cheka Distinction between relative truth and absolute truth
Kausay Life-Force : Fuel
Kollary Embodiment : Motion : Flow : Timelessness : Coming into Fullness
Munay Unconditional, Impersonal & Timeless Love
Nüna Spirit : Right Action
Yüya Wisdom of Power
Chullya Oneness : Communion : Connectedness
- This saiwa establishes that while there are many relative truths in the realms of consciousness, there is only one Absolute Truth — munay or unconditional love. Fundamentally, cheka describes the crossroads where our “little self” (ego) is subordinated by our “higher Self.”
- This luminous marker teaches that when right-relationship occurs between our purest visions and selfless actions, our personal power increases ten-fold. This saiwa challenges us to truly “know thyself.”
Kausay Life-Force : Fuel
- Everything in the Universe — visible and invisible — is animated or infused with kausay. No thing is absent of life. Kausay is the life-force that creates galaxies, suns, mountains, plants, animals and even humans through its diverse expressions of vibrational frequencies.
- This luminous marker describes the gift of life — knowing who one is in the tapestry of life.
Kollary Embodiment : Motion : Flow : Timelessness : Coming into Fullness
- We live in a Universe that is alive, dynamic and in constant motion. Nothing is in perfect stillness. Everything in the realm of time/space has a cyclic beginning and end (pacha). For shaman, it is imperative to recognize and map these cycles so his or her journey through life continually evolves towards more essential meaning and fulfillment. They know that by being present in the process of life, rather than in a desired future outcome, we can change our relationship to time.
- This luminous marker teaches that sourcing externally through form creates experiences of suffering. In contrast, co-creation + responsibility = embodiment.
Munay Unconditional, Impersonal & Timeless Love
- The energetic vibration of love is the preeminent affinity that brings together all levels of consciousness and the connective tissue for everything in the Universe — atoms, particles, galaxies, succession of seasons, flow of rivers and tides, and the very cycle of life. Unlike the romantic expression of love that is known to use through enculturation (cause and effect; duality), munay is impersonal, unconditional and timeless.
- This luminous marker conveys the guiding principle that frees us from consensual imprints and our ego.
Nüna Spirit : Right Action
- Everything in the Universe — collectively and individually — is animated by Spirit, and therefore, sacred. Spirit is understood to be the timeless cosmic blueprint that contains the architecture of life. Practicing reverence grants us the ability to recognize Spirit manifested in everything. It also enables us to create and embody high level (kollana) affinities to our trans-temporal and temporal natures.
- This luminous marker enables us to articulate the language of Spirit — through our vision, thoughts, intent and actions — thereby making it possible for us to embody the other saiwas.
Yüya Wisdom of Power
- This saiwa describes knowingness and acceptance — at all levels of consciousness — of the wisdom and perfection of the Universe and its organizing principles. It also relates to practicality, efficiency, common sense, and remembering our inner and uncorrupted wisdom. For shaman, this represents the path to primary (kollana) meaning, which in turn, organizes form. Observation, detachment and stillness are key.
- This luminous marker teaches us how to learn directly from Spirit — to create rainbows without knowing the science of molecules or refraction.
Chullya Oneness : Communion : Connectedness
- This is the Law of Unity — everything is connected and nothing is isolated. For shaman, this saiwa is about aligning heaven and earth — vision and action — so their energy is no longer invested in, or subtracted by, the seductions of the “little self” (ego). Alignment occurs when vision is fueled by unconditional intent (open heartedness), and immediately followed by right-action.
- This luminous marker challenges us to step outside of duality and commune with the Creator’s creation by developing our ability to synthesize and integrate the essential (kollana) qualities of energy; Oneness.
As the rain was not letting up, but coming down harder, we headed back to our hotel for hot showers and rest. Later, after stopping at the internet café to check emails and call home to see how Rick and our Boxer pups were doing, I met Holly for pizza on the plaza.