Finally ... a morning to sleep in! Today is scheduled to be a "relaxing" day before heading off on a road trip to Lake Titicaca.
After an 8AM breakfast, we met Willy at our bus for the short drive outside of Cuzco to Sacsayhuaman. Joining us today, besides Jose Luis and our guide Merta, are Juan and Francisco, whom we met at Don Manuel’s last despacho ceremony a couple of days ago. Brothers, they are also the sons of don Mariano Apasa, whom I met and had the privilege to work with last year.
This will be my third visit to Sacsayhuaman. On the way out of town, as we climb into the hills, Jose Luis shares that the Inka gave animals the responsibility of being totems or archetypes to hold stories of origin. Cuzco, we learn, was purposely shaped like a puma (cougar) to represent power. Sacsayhuaman serves as the “head” of the puma. Plaza de Armas is the “heart,” and Qoriconcha (Temple of Gold) represents the “sexual area.”
After an 8AM breakfast, we met Willy at our bus for the short drive outside of Cuzco to Sacsayhuaman. Joining us today, besides Jose Luis and our guide Merta, are Juan and Francisco, whom we met at Don Manuel’s last despacho ceremony a couple of days ago. Brothers, they are also the sons of don Mariano Apasa, whom I met and had the privilege to work with last year.
This will be my third visit to Sacsayhuaman. On the way out of town, as we climb into the hills, Jose Luis shares that the Inka gave animals the responsibility of being totems or archetypes to hold stories of origin. Cuzco, we learn, was purposely shaped like a puma (cougar) to represent power. Sacsayhuaman serves as the “head” of the puma. Plaza de Armas is the “heart,” and Qoriconcha (Temple of Gold) represents the “sexual area.”
We also learn that Sacsayhuaman was the first Temple of the Sun and was begun during Pachacuti Inka Yupanqui's reign. Though, it took at least two more rulers — Túpac Inka Yupanqui (son of Pachacuti) and Huayna Capac (son of Túpac Inka) to develop it further, it was never completed due to the Spanish invasion. |
Pachacuti Inka Yupanqui — “Reverser of the World” — while becoming a mythical being, he was also responsible for many innovations, and considered a transformer — changing the spiritual axis to the sun and instituting Quechua as the official and unifying language. Today, the word "pachacuti" refers to a flipping over of time — as we are experiencing today with the breaking down of masculine structures and ensuing social chaos as transition into a more feminine balanced one — as well as the point where one pacha or cycle ends and another begins.
During his father’s reign — Wiracocha Inka — the empire came under siege by the fierce Chanca people, whom Pachacuti Inka defeated in 1438CE. Mythology has it that Pachacuti transformed stones into warriors to defeat the Chanca, and order was restored. Later, Pachacuti’s two sons and grandson carried out the expansion of the Inka empire towards Ecuador.
The Inka redefined Andean cosmology during their 230-year reign. In fact, the history of Peru begins with Pachacuti, before him is mostly mythology:
During his father’s reign — Wiracocha Inka — the empire came under siege by the fierce Chanca people, whom Pachacuti Inka defeated in 1438CE. Mythology has it that Pachacuti transformed stones into warriors to defeat the Chanca, and order was restored. Later, Pachacuti’s two sons and grandson carried out the expansion of the Inka empire towards Ecuador.
The Inka redefined Andean cosmology during their 230-year reign. In fact, the history of Peru begins with Pachacuti, before him is mostly mythology:
Manco Capa was believed to be the son of Inti (Sun God) and Mamaquilla (Goddess of the Moon) and rose from Lake Titicaca. He was considered to be a fire and a sun god like his father, and he is associated with leadership, kingsmanship and royalty. Though he is considered to be the first Sapa Inka or sole ruler, there is no evidence that he ever lived. |
As we arrive at Sacsayhuaman, it impossible to not be in awe of this more than 6,000-acre site that includes the most impressive Inka stonework (cyclop architecture). The largest stones are estimated at over 13-feet in height and weighing 100 tons. It is believed that the stones were roughly shaped off-site using only stone-on-stone and bronze tools. |
The stones are believed to have been brought to the site using ropes/logs/levers and earthen ramps, further shaped and assembled with an interlocking system that required no mortar. The stone surface was then finished using grinding stones and sand. As with other Inka structures, the walls were sloped to minimize earthquake damage.
We learn that the Spanish thought Sacsayhuaman was a fortress, but it was foremost a spiritual site. In fact, it was to be the complimentary spiritual site to Qoriconcha — Golden Courtyard — at the other end of the “puma.”
We learn that the Spanish thought Sacsayhuaman was a fortress, but it was foremost a spiritual site. In fact, it was to be the complimentary spiritual site to Qoriconcha — Golden Courtyard — at the other end of the “puma.”
The layout of Sacsayhuaman purposely represents three elements as well as the Andean Three Worlds cosmology:
There are many theories and hypothesis about the age of Sacsayhuaman. Some believe the lower tier of monolith stones come from the “Age of Giants,” which pre-dates the Inka. And, the Inka added the second and third tiers of smaller stones. There is also evidence of the Tiwanacan culture, which existed at least 1500 years before Pachacuti Inka. At any rate, Sacsayhuaman may be much older than recognized today.
The way to understand Sacsayhuaman, we are told, is through a mythological lens. Perhaps, the lower tier is to remind people of Atlantis — both constructions of both cultures correlate closely — and that there once was a technology to liquify stone that could then be poured into leather containers, which speak to the beveled edges of these stones. |
A resident archeologist theorizes that there was once a three tier tower — made of copper, silver and gold — with underground chambers filled with water that was used to draw lightening to the earth. Interestingly, for me, the supposed tower is in the location where my friend Jerry and I held ceremony here last year. |
He also believes that by running lightening through the tower into the reservoir, the Inka were able to change the ionization of water.
Archeologists have also speculated that this same site was a reservoir that reflected celestial movement. I am fascinated to learn that the sacred mountains Ausangate (masculine) and its complimentary opposite Salkantay (feminine) are both in a direct axis and triangulate perfectly with Cuzco. The small inner circle in this stone structure is the mythical “head” of Cuzco — yachay. |
One can apparently map the Winter (June) Solstice with the constellation Pleiades, as well as the Summer (December) Solstice. Between solstices, one can track the Llama (Alph Centauri and Beta Centauri), Southern Cross, Toad and Snake constellations using this celestial reservoir. In 1986 archeologists found 12 aqueducts that directed water to the reservoir. Crustacean and shells have been found at the site, which led to another theory that this area was once underwater.
Following the collapse of the Inka empire, most of the stones of Sacsayhuaman were reused in the construction of colonial buildings, homes of wealthy Spaniards, and foundations for Catholic churches in and around Cuzco.
Following the collapse of the Inka empire, most of the stones of Sacsayhuaman were reused in the construction of colonial buildings, homes of wealthy Spaniards, and foundations for Catholic churches in and around Cuzco.
Next, we drive a short distance and up a dirt road to the Temple of the Moon, which is much older than Sacsayhuaman. From the road, all we see is a lovely landscape. Then, we hike down the hillside. According to Don Eduardo Calderone, another Peruvian medicine person, this hillside site is divided into symmetrical parts and calls it the Cave of Light. |
There are also lots of stairways with steps symbolizing various aspects of the Andean cosmology. For instance:
Before entering the first cave, we are told: "This is where we'll discover the light within."
- 9 steps denote cosmo-vision;
- 5 steps symbolize the flow of the Universe (Hanaqpacha);
- 4 steps represent the Tiwantinesuyu cosmology (4-chambered universe); and
- 2 steps describing the principle of yanantin/masintin (duality).
Before entering the first cave, we are told: "This is where we'll discover the light within."
The other cave has many carvings of snake, puma, and apuchine (condor). This is the Cave of the Dark. Here, we are told we will enter the belly of Pachamama to discover our creative processes. Within this cave, we squeezed in close to sit on a large altar-like rock and opened our Wiracocha and energy centers. While Jose Luis rattled and whistled his ikaro, we set our intent and breathed in the energies of Pachamama. After a while we spontaneously sang and hummed a variation of the Pachamama Song.
Pachamama muchanapi, yuyurischis mamatayta, wasinchista allyunchista, munaskanta kausayninchispa |
Mother, we come to you with our kisses, the voice of our creation.
Listen to what we say and what we create, mother-father.
Bless our homes. Bless also the community.
May this power that we source from fuel of our life-force that we may come to fruition.
Listen to what we say and what we create, mother-father.
Bless our homes. Bless also the community.
May this power that we source from fuel of our life-force that we may come to fruition.
Then, in silence, one-by-one we received blessings from Franceso, Juan and Jose Luis. Each called forth the spirits of jaguar, serpent and condor and blew this energy into the crown of our head (7th chakra) and our mesa.
Near the Temple of the Moon is an open area with a number of huacas, which are sacred sites situated on a ceke or energetic ley line that generally holds the presence of iron ore, which calls lightening to it. Huacas serve as portals to alternate states of consciousness and realities.
Near the Temple of the Moon is an open area with a number of huacas, which are sacred sites situated on a ceke or energetic ley line that generally holds the presence of iron ore, which calls lightening to it. Huacas serve as portals to alternate states of consciousness and realities.
On the drive back to Cuzco, we stopped at a roadside restaurant with fantastic views for lunch. Afterwards, Jane and I went to an alpaca clothing factory where I purchased a warm hat and gloves. Dinner was at our hotel and the rest of the evening was spent packing for the next portion of our adventure!