This morning after breakfast, we board a speed boat to take us to the island of Amantani where we will spend the the night. Over the roar of the boat’s engine, we began learning more about Puno and this region:
- Puno is located in southeastern Peru on the western shore of Lake Titicaca, and serves as the capital city of the this region and province. At just over 12,500-feet elevation, I am appreciative that our trip has allowed our lungs to expand gradually so we are certainly ready for hikes at this elevation.
- While an important agricultural and livestock region, Puno’s economy is also fueled by the black market of cheap goods smuggled in from Bolivia.
- Three languages are spoken in this region: Quechua, Spanish and Aymara. The latter keeps the indigenous language and culture alive.
- June 21 (winter solstice) is celebrated by Quechua and Aymara people as the start of the new year (pacha). When the Spanish conquered this region, they changed the start of the new year to June 24th to coincide with the celebration of St. John the Baptist. However, indigenous peoples still celebrate on the 21st.
- Last night, we missed an annual ceremony honoring and thanking Pachamama (Mother Earth : Eternal Mother), the sun (Inti) and water, which included the exchange and eating of coca leaves (mastay), making despachos and dancing.
- In this region there are approximately 300 indigenous communities that are mostly Aymara.
- Lake Titicaca, in the Aymara language is called Mamaqocha (Sacred Lake).
- Lake Titicaca was divided, in 1875, between Peru and Bolivia — though people on both sides of the lake share the same language and culture.
- A Bolivian legend from the Isla del Sol (Island of the Sun) says that the first two Inka originated here and were given a gold staff from the Sun God (Inti) with instructions to cross Lake Titicaca and plant the staff in the hills outside of Cuzco.
- Another legend says that Lake Titikaka was named because of its shape — a puma chasing a rabbit. Titi means puma; caca refers to the color grey.
- Lake Titicaca has a unique ecosystem because the lake creates its own weather system — it retains warmth and releases it as evaporation keeping the areas surrounding the lake warmer than it would otherwise be at this altitude. Generally, this altitude would have snow and not be able to grow over 3,000 varieties of potatoes.
Two mountain peaks, called Pachatata (Father Earth) and Pachamama (Mother Earth) and ancient ruins are on the top of both peaks. The hillsides that rise up from the lake are terraced and planted with wheat, potatoes, and vegetables. Long stone fences divide the fields, and cattle and sheep graze on the hillsides. Since machinery is not allowed on the island, all agriculture is done by hand. Therefore, no cars ... which means we need to carry our gear to where we will be staying — for once it was good to pack light for this overnight adventure!
There are a few small stores that sell basic goods, a health clinic, and six schools. Electricity was produced by a generator and provided limited power a few hours each day, but because of the high price of the petroleum, they no longer use the generator. Most families use candles or flashlights — which we were specifically told to bring with us — powered by batteries or hand cranks.
There are also no hotels on the island. Some families on Amantani open their homes to tourists for overnight stays and provide cooked meals, arranged through tour guides. The families who do so are required to have a special room set aside for the tourists and must follow a code set by the tourist companies. Guests typically take food staples (cooking oil, rice, etc., but no sugar products, as they have no dental facilities) as a gift or school supplies for the children on the island.
We are staying with dear friends of Jose Luis, who open their homes to tourists. Jose Luis also happens to be their children’s god-father. As such, we’ve brought along food and other staples for the family, and simple toys for their children.
We are staying with dear friends of Jose Luis, who open their homes to tourists. Jose Luis also happens to be their children’s god-father. As such, we’ve brought along food and other staples for the family, and simple toys for their children.
After settling in, we hike to an area of the island where festivals, like today’s that combine John the Baptist / Inti Raymi / Festival of Children, are held. Adults and children alike are dressed in their finest traditional clothing and there is a parade. At other times of the year, islanders celebrate festivals honoring Mother Earth and Father Earth to maintain ayni or right-relationship : balance.
There are also food vendors selling ceviche (red salmon, rainbow trout that was introduced from US and Canada, kingfish — my favorite — introduced from Argentina) and fried dough treats, and games. Curious about where the fish comes from, I learned that Lake Titicaca is situated between two volcanic mountain ranges — one in Peru and the other in Bolivia — from which seven rivers flow into Lake Titicaca year round, and eighteen more rivers flow in seasonally. Only one river flows out of the lake.
First, we participated in a snow despacho ceremony with don Mariano into which were placed separate k’intus we made that held prayers for our families, our health and our businesses. Interestingly, this despacho was only fed with candy. Before it was burned in a llama dung fire, while we watched, don Mariano used it to clean each of our energy fields. Afterwards don Maximo did fire coca leaf readings.
That evening, back at the guesthouse where we were staying, the family served us a delicious quinoa soup (I had two bowls), and some of their guinea pigs they had roasted along with potatoes and more quinoa. Though it is an incredible honor to be served guinea pig, I could not bring myself to eat this creature lying with its head and feet on my plate. Thankfully, others in our group were willing to eat mine.
With flashlights and headlamps, we made our way back to our sleeping quarters. Gathering my toiletries, headed back outside to washed up and brush my teeth.
With flashlights and headlamps, we made our way back to our sleeping quarters. Gathering my toiletries, headed back outside to washed up and brush my teeth.