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The Way of the Altomesayoq Research Project

In 2005, I traveled to Peru for the third time having spent the previous five years in an intense apprenticeship studying Andean shamanism. This time to experience the elusive Altomesayoq tradition.

ALTER EGO WEBSITE

Waykay Wilkey — Veronica

7/4/2005

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Up early this morning … or, perhaps I never actually slept. A lot of processing must have gone on overnight because I am feeling emotionally rested and very expansive. Though meaning will take as long as it needs to develop, I am sure today is most definitely Independence Day … independence from consensual reality!
After a hearty Peruvian breakfast of yogurt, eggs, toast and bacon, we are told to meet on the bus in 10 minutes. The Apus gave direction last night that we need to pilgrimage to the holy mountain WaykayWilkey, also known as Veronica, to hold ceremony.
I have been enamored by this holy mountain since first laying eyes upon it in 1998. A perfect equilateral triangle from a distance, its job description is to teach passion without attachment — without an attachment to outcome, an agenda, or conditionality. I job description worthy of such a gorgeous and imposing mountain!
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We drove along the Urubamba River, which flows SE to NW, to the town of Ollantaytambo. Because of its parallel course, the river is believed to be the early reflection of the Milky Way or Cosmic River. After 450 miles the Urubamba meets the Apurimac River to form the Ucayali River, a major headwater of the Amazon River that Rick and I explored in 1998.

​Along the way, Jose Luis reminded us that:

  • Upstream from the town of Urubamba, where we are staying, the Urubamba River is called the Willkamayu. 
  • The Sacred Valley lies at about 9,000 feet above sea level, lower in elevation than Cuzco (11,000 feet). 
  • The benefactor mountain for the Sacred Valley is Pachatuscon, whose contemporary name is Lord of Huanca. Its mighty job description is being the “axis of the world.”​
  • The red flags hanging on a number of houses and other buildings indicates that they have aja or chicha (corn beer) for sale. Traditionally, the Inka used them for ceremony, but today chicha is drunk as an effective way to prevent prostate problems by cleansing the urinary track. For women, it cleanses the uterus. Thus it serves as both an intoxicant and medicine!
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Looking back towards Ollantaytambo
Upon reaching Ollantaytambo, instead of turning left towards the train station, we turned right. Winding our way up the hairpin turns to the top of the mountain pass. 
Along the way we experienced large-scale road construction underway, as this a primary route to the Amazon jungle and source of all the foodstuff that is not able to be grown at these higher elevations.
While we waited for some large boulders to be moved so we and others could continue on our journey, Jose Luis responded to questions regarding last night’s Altomesayoq ceremony and more:
  • Mountain shaman do not use psychotropic plants to shift states of consciousness.
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  • Instead, they work through their mesa to transcend time and space. As their mesa gains power, they are able to draw mountain spirits (apus) to it from far distances such as Bolivia and even Rio de Janeiro.

  • Santa Tierras can be called upon to “swallow” that which is not in ayni (right-relationship; balance) — pull it into the earth so it can be transmuted (michuy) as nutrients for other life forms.
  • Another type of mountain shaman — Pauoks — who fly and work with winged spirits (apus) as part of their cultivation of power. Sadly, Christianity has eroded much of the old traditional cosmology, including that of pauoks. 
  • It is vitally important to understand the conditions that govern how we create meaning and life. These conditions limit our availability to receive power — the ability to create and change momentums.
  • Availability is essential to receive greater and greater power. Simplicity and tukumunayniyoq — the all encompassing power of unconditional love — allow for availability. Availability requires faith and intent. 
  • “Look at your language,” Jose Luis suggests, “in order to become aware of your conditions.”
At the top of the pass, we stopped briefly at a chapel (huanca) built upon a huaca (a natural site situated at the convergence of many cekes (ley lines) — such as a spring, waterfall, or mountain pass — that are both geomantic and a result of many prayers. This is another site that draws pilgrims on August 1 to reconcile their pachas so they can exercise new vision without fall-back options.
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The road ahead looked so tempting to follow as it switch-backs its way to the jungle. Silently, I say a prayer to one day return to Peru and rent a car (or better yet, hire a driver) to take me this way to the jungle!
But for now, it is time to hike to a swale below snow-line on Waykay Wilkey. We have been directed to hold ceremony here because cekes holding the quality of energy associated with fertility (in all of its forms of Creation) radiate three-dimensionally to this sacred mountain. As a result, it is revered as a sacred site for coming into ayni (balance : right-relationship) and accessing enka (the essence of pure potentiality that generates the fullest expression of fertility, well-being, light and ayni). Enka is understood to be the fifth element — fire, water, earth, air and enka.

The gift shops throughout Peru sell small figurines, called incaychos. These are come in many shapes including that of a bull, llama, ram or house, etc, and hold and maintain the enka of what they represent. These figurines are often buried in order to give fertility to their physical representations so they thrive.
As we sat in a circle, with tall Andean mountains all around us, Jose Luis tells us again that Waykay Wilkey has also been, for the past decade, the most popular mountain for initiates to receive rites of passage and mesa. 
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A traditional rite of passage includes spending 24-hours on this mountain’s glacier — naked — the teaching is to move beyond fear, insecurity and doubt towards faith. Meanwhile, the initiate awaits a vision or dream. Those who pass this “test” are called “the ones who are twice born” — they have died to time and history. Nothing claims them, but life. In other words, they’ve escaped the grip of time itself and are totally re-wired to different set of conditions.

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Ayni is the first step of power. The next step is creating or developing high-level (kollana) affinities of equivalence. Sometimes, we are told, feelings associated with these higher expressions of affinities are difficult, especially when we get caught up in consensual reality.

After opening sacred space, Adolpho led a despacho ceremony that honors Pachamama and the apus. As I made k’intus with coca leaves, I infused them with prayers to engage my life with more ayni; to develop higher-level affinities to fertility / well-being / light / ayni; to be more available so I could access enka readily; and to be of greater service to Spirit.
Adolpho told us that the apus require more presence, autonomy and physical manifestation as one receives more power. His mesa is a gateway, as is his physical body. His personal job description is to heal people and give them the information they need. As a result, he travels a lot to small villages. Most of his healing work is done through despachos. The apus tell him what needs to be done, then he holds that in his mesa.

Don Martin shared that he also does healings through despachos, and that through his power and loss of power, he has learned the importance of respect and love.

​Juan, who is the son of don Mariano Apasa and, with his brother Francesco, the last apprentices of don Manuel, tells us that he is a pampamesayoq and works with paqarinas, huacas, and elemental forces of nature. He very adamantly told us that pampamesayoqs can be equally powerful as altomesayoqs!

Once the despacho was complete, Adolpho used it to clean each of our medicine bodies to help further remove heavy energies (hucha) that keep us conditional. Then the medicine people took the despacho off to be burned so our prayers could be quickly sent to Spirit. 

Later, sitting again in our circle, there was more information shared:
  • Jose Luis: Reported that the despacho burned rapidly and completely — a very auspicious sign. He promised to introduce us to the apus, and that he would ask them to bless our mesas. He cautioned that, if something is not “right,” the apus will call us on it.
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  • According to the apus, the Lord of Collya R’iti forbids them to speak anything but Quechua and Spanish.
  • As a result of the Spanish rule, the new Christian cosmology grew while shamanism went underground. To keep the Andean cosmology alive, mountain shamans embedded their beliefs within the framework of Christianity. For instance: 
    • Christ symbolized Illya Texa Wiracocha/Creator
    • Madonnas — Pachamama and nuest’as
    • Angels — Apus
    • Mountains with European names — e.g. Maria Huanman Tika and Manuel Pita, named after medicine people whose power, according to legend, returned to the mountains after their death. Manuel Pita, a small mountain, lies across from the village of Wasau.
  • Apus provide the means of healing, justice, and answers for everyday life. Sometimes smaller, less powerful apus punish an Altomesayoq, if they are out ayni or in conflict with the apus sense of  consensual reality. Higher-level apus (e.g. Collya R’iti, Ausangate, Sakantay etc.) do not subscribe to punishment. 
  • How one experiences apus is in direct correlation with their personal cosmology. In other words, if you subscribe to a punitive cosmo-vision, then you will create this type of relationship with the apus.
  • Tankaenquy is a trance inducing sone that has the power to awaken a huaca.
  • Adolpho: Told us there is a hierarchy of apus.
  • One of the Santa Tierras told him during last night’s session that some of us are not anchored to Pachamama. We must be anchored to Pachamama so that we can grow our medicine.
  • We create anchors by:
    • Connecting intent through breath;
    • Having a shell in our mesa to symbolize Pachamama that is connected to her via kollana cekes;
    • Having a mesa stone that is connected via kollana cekes to huacas.
  • Jose Luis: Shared with us the names of the apus who came during last night’s session:
    • Sacsayhuaman Cavilldo — came first to check things out. This is one of three expressions of Sacsayhuaman;
    • Senõr Yanakaka de Palulu — Adolpho’s benefactor and local mountain apu. Through Senõr Yanakaka de Palulu the other apus come through his ethereal body and sometimes use his vocal chords to speak;
    • Senõr Macho Yanakaka (much older than the previous expression) — invited Salkantay, who later came;
    • Qorichaska (Golden Star) — a Santa Tierra that is an overseer of everything, and who came to see if the altomesayoq (Adolpho) was dispensing the power that he is responsible for dispensing. Qorichaska scanned who we are and what our purpose is. Jose Luis has been charged, by the apus, to teach Adolpho the cosmology; in exchange the apus only let Adolpho work with Jose Luis.
    • Salkantay — visited briefly and said that more information would be dispensed when we visit the mountain.
    • Apu Ayna (an ancient apu) — said that Pachatuscon was not able to be with us because of some fires that were burning. Apu Ayna broke glass, and asked Jose Luis to rattle and sing his medicine song (Salkantay, who was also present at the time, said that he liked the song);
    •  Santa Tierras — were loud and said that we need to connect with and develop cekes to Pachamama. They blessed our mesas and personally connected us to Pachamama, and asked that we leave our mesas open so they can visit us. The Santa Tierras that visited were: 
      • Santa Tierra Porto Moldonado (Amazon)
      • Santa Tierra Anduwayleus (west of Cuzco)
      • Santa Tierra Byodelaros (Urubamba)
      • Santa Tierra Avenquy (south of Cuzco)
      • Santa Tierra Mamaconas — crones that were “Virgins of the Sun” (altomesayoqs).​
By the time we hiked down the mountainside to our waiting bus, my head was spinning from the despacho ceremony and all of the information that was shared.
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At dinner, we were told there would be a fire ceremony tonight, and asked to bring to the fire anything within our personal cosmology that needed to be released, cleansed or re-wired. 

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I brought 3 sticks wrapped with colored yarn — one represented the release of all that I know, so that I can be more available to “experience;” another symbolized my desire to cleanse the heavy energies (hucha) that keep me conditional so I can create higher level affinities; and the third stick expressed my intention to re-wire my DNA so chromosomes would no longer break and create mutants.
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Sacred Valley & Altomesayoq Ceremony

7/3/2005

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After breakfast we checked out of our hotel and boarded our bus for the Sacred Valley. This is my third trip across the Chinchero Plains, and I am always enthralled by its beauty. It so reminds me of portions of Montana with large open grasslands surrounded by stately mountains in the background.
Enroute, Jose Luis begins teaching. He tells us that Mountain Spirits (apu) symbolize the collective. When an Altomesayoq calls in Apus during a ceremony, these are mostly ones to which he or she holds memberships (primary relationships). Sometimes there may be more of these Apu memberships than the space where the ceremony is held can accommodate.

​Before dropping down into the Sacred Valley, Jose Luis draws me a schematic of the various holy mountains that encircle Cuzco. One of my most favorite photographs taken during my 2003 trip to Peru was of the glacier covered mountain Illya Waman.

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Illya Waman is third from center on the left
After settling in at our hotel and devouring lunch, we boarded our bus for a short ride to the Amaru Huaca for a cleansing water ceremony. Amaru is the archetypal great serpent, who is seen in the night sky as the Milky Way, and on earth, flowing along a parallel course, as the Urubamba River that eventually makes its way past Machu Picchu to become a major headwater of the Amazon River.

​Sitting on the huaca, we are instructed to use our breath to build our kausay (energy). Jose Luis demonstrated how the quality (vibrational frequency) of water can be changed using this technique. Then we broke up into pairs — Eva and I partnered — to individually raise the vibration of spring water using our breath.


Next, we opened our Wiracocha and took turns standing with our back to the carved serpent in the large rock huaca while our partner poured some of the icy cold spring water we had worked with into a channel that eventually ran down our spine.
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Amaru Huaca
After we were cleansed, the medicine people traveling with us bestowed their blessings by blowing their prayers into our mesa through their own, tinkling a bell above our heads, and blowing kollana (the most refined form of energy) quality of cekes into the crown of our heads to connect us to them and their Andean medicine tradition. 

​Next, we all walked to a nearby cylindrical stone structure where we sat in silent meditation. I prayed to stay open to this experience and all to follow on this journey, and to “see” through the eyes of my heart.

Returning to our hotel in the Sacred Valley, Eva and I headed to our room and change into warmer clothes as the evening was turning cold since the sun had set. After dinner, our allyu or group met in the bar to formally begin our journey.
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As the sun dips behind the mountains, everyone starts for home
First, we went around the circle briefly introducing ourselves and sharing our gratefulness for being invited on this expedition, along with our expectations and curiosities. When it was my turn, I expressed gratitude to Jose Luis for inviting me and the medicine people present for their willingness and generosity to share their knowledge and practices with us. I also said that my expectation was to become more familiar with how they organize reality and my curiosity was to experience the ways in which they engage with the animistic forces of nature.

The medicine people accompanying us on this trip introduced themselves:
  • don Martin Q’espe Machera is a contemporary of don Manuel Q’espe and also from Q’ero.
  • Adolpho is the youngest altomesayoq ever, and from the Vilcabamba region.
  • Adrille, whom I met in 2003, had been appointed by the apus (mountain spirits) to become an altomesayoq, but has not stepped up to claim that distinction and the accompanying responsibility. He is one of the most accurate coca leaf readers.
  • Francesco and Juan Apasa, whom I also met in 2003, are pampamesayoq shamans and don Manuel’s last students. They currently apprentice under don Martin Q’espe Machera. Francesco and Juan are sons of don Mariano Apasa, whom I traveled with and photographed on Ausangate in 2002.
  • dõna Paula (Lake Titicaca) will be joining us at the end of our expedition in Cuzco. 
  • dõna Berna (Cuzco), whom previously met dõna Berna in 2002, will also be joining us at the end of our expedition in Cuzco.
Then Jose Luis and the medicine people begin teaching us more about the Andean cosmology that informs their medicine traditions and the realm in which altomesayoq shaman work. Jose Luis and Adrille serve as our translators.
  • When working with an altomesayoq, it is important to have a pampamesayoq in attendance to anchor one’s luminous body . . . I have no idea what that means, but sit quietly as no doubt the meaning will become clear during our time together.
  • The cosmology of Catholicism comes through when altomesayoqs call the apus to address us because that is part of the modern-day Andean cosmology.
  • Our mesas will hold the structure for our medicine body while we undertake this journey and experience various ceremonies. Therefore, it is important that we know what defines our personal cosmology. We must map our personal cosmology.
  •  The apus will direct our preparation for this research expedition, which will include ceremonies to clear and cleanse our medicine body, as well as to strengthen the cekes that connect us to our mesa.
  • Adolpho’s apus are very physical — they materialize on the altar and speak on their own. His mesa creates a portal through which these mountain spirits come. My mind is near exploding at the thought of witnessing such an other-worldly phenomenon … Can this be real? My skeptical mind begins casting doubts that I work hard to non-engage.
  • don Martin’s apus are also physical, but they do not materialize. Instead, the apus use him as a medium through which they communicate. The voices that come through him are not his, they sound different and are at a higher level of consciousness. He tells us that his power has been reduced because he is not in ayni (right-relationship) with the Universe — he got caught up in his own human hubris — he became greedy. Be that as it may, he is still able to call forth the presences of higher-level apus. [Level relates to the amount of consciousness the apu possesses and is able to share.] 
  • Selection of an altomesayoq is by lightening or some other life-defining means.
  • The apu appointed to give altomesayoqs their mesa and apu benefactor for the past nine years or so is Waykaywilkey. It is through the apu benefactor that other apus come. Waykaywilkey is also referred to as Lord Toreychayoq or the Lord of Porto Moldonato.
  • Previously, apus were appointed by Ausangate, and before that it was Collya R’iti (Snow Star).
  • Collya R’iti is the chief of all mountain angels and the place for resetting and advancing one’s mesa. Newly appointed altomesayoqs must pilgrimage there.
  • A Celestial Mesa — a mesa of light — is given to those who walk in perfect ayni.​
Afterwards, we were led to a completely blackened room at the hotel where Adolpho called in his apu memberships. Nothing I had heard from others, or read, quite prepared me for the reality-blowing experience of hearing, smelling and sensing the Apus (mountain spirits) and Santa Tierras (earth spirits) as they burst into the room. 

But, to go back a bit … before we entered the room, we were told to remove all watches and electronic devises, as they would be adversely affected by the high frequency energies of the various forces of nature that would be present. Once inside, we placed our mesa on an altar in the front of the room, which also held bottles of soda pop and beer. After taking seats lined up in several rows, we were told to pray and to keep our eyes closed.

An unexpected joy entered my heart as I listened to Adolpho continuously pray while Jose Luis interpreted as h
uge-sounding winged Apu-beings burst one at a time through the walls — both exterior stucco and interior drywall ones — and announced themselves speaking rapidly in Spanish, Quechua and the old Amara language. I heard (and sometimes felt) bottle caps popped off bottles of beer and soda on the altar. I felt Santa Tierras rise up through the slab foundation speaking in high-pitched voices. Some of the Apus paced back and forth across the altar as they spoke and made “clicking” sounds.

I must admit that I did sneak a peek or two ... in the pitch black darkness, the only thing I saw were sparks coming from the direction of the altar. In that instant, I knew without doubt, what I’d suspected since childhood is indeed “real” — just not in ordinary reality.

Staying in prayer and gratitude was easy — I was so thankful for Jose Luis in my life and the perfection of the Universe for conspiring to bring me to this moment. At some point during this extraordinary ceremony, my ego-mind questioned silently if this was indeed “real” — no sooner did that thought pop into my mind when something like a very large wing brushed against my foot and pushed it a few inches. With a smile upon my lips, I silently gave thanks. After that I was totally immersed in the experience. No more thoughts. My heart opened further to the mystery and immense love I felt.

Once all of the Apus and Santa Tierras left, some of the lights were turned on very low so not to jolt us out of our expanded state of consciousness. Then, Jose Luis began to help us build personal frameworks for what we had just experienced. In responding to our questions, we learned that depending upon the age of the Apu, it speaks in either Spanish (young Apus), Quechua or Amara (old Apus). Depending upon the size of the Apu and the room where ceremony is held, sometimes only one Apu can fit at a time, so they take turns. The first Apu, is usually the altomesayoq’s benefactor Apu. Similarly for the Santa Tierras (earth spirits). We also learned that Apus love carbonation in beer and soda. So when we looked at all of the bottles on the altar, their caps had all been popped off, the liquid remained, but there was no carbonation present. The “clicking” sound we heard as some Apus paced across the altar, was their working on our mesas with crystals to accelerate our healing and availability to expanded and higher frequencies of energy (consciousness).

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Energized, but needing silence and sleep to process all that had taken place today, I went to my room where I dissolved into tears of gratitude.
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A Kick-Back Kind of a Day!

7/2/2005

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Today is all about acclimating ... to elevation, shaman-time, and preparing our energy and physical bodies for the adventure ahead.

After breakfast, I walked down to the Plaza de Armas, stopping in at the historical museum. Later, I met up with Eva and a Cuzco friend of hers to further explore the city before taking a taxi to her home and meeting her family.
Upon returning to our hotel in late afternoon, we met up with Jose Luis and more members of our allyu for this adventure. Reorganized my duffel bags of clothes and camping gear for our bus ride the Sacred Valley tomorrow. Dinner near our hotel.
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Cuzco & San Francisco Market

7/1/2005

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Ours is the first flight into Cuzco today. Upon arrival, just after dawn, we were met by a driver sent from Rainbow Jaguar who takes us to the hotel where we will be staying. A few hours later, after a hot shower and brief rest my roommate Eva arrives. She is a fellow artist whom I met during one of our allyu sessions in Utah. She is also a teacher of shamanism, in Maine, where she lives. It will be fun to reconnect and share this adventure with her and other friends.
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Eva
After a brief catch-up over matte de coca, we hit the streets ... taking in the gorgeous Inka stonework on our way to the San Francesco Market.
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For dinner we ate at one of the many incredibly delicious pizza restaurants.

A long two days ... early to bed!
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Off to Peru

6/30/2005

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Up early to finish last minute packing before Rick and our Boxer boys — Diavolo Bello and Cody Skywalker — drive me to Santa Barbara Airport for a flight to LAX. From there, I flew to Lima, Peru, arriving in the early morning hours. While waiting for five hours for my flight to Cuzco, I ate Dunkin' Donuts, one of the few shops open in the wee hours, and met up with a few others from our Utah allyu.
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The Call

4/14/2005

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It’s early Spring, and I’ve just received formal invitation to be part of a new and exciting adventure in Peru this summer. Jose Luis Herrera had informally invited me when I last saw him for a week-long class in Utah. 

As a result of don Manuel’s last despacho ceremony, which I attended during a 2003 trip to Peru with Jose Luis, he has been courting Altomesayoq mountain shaman to learn more about their ways. This adventure will follow in don Manuel’s footsteps as we will experience an altogether different dialogue with Mountain Spirits (Apus).
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This research expedition will also be a unique adventure insofar as the Winged Spirits themselves will dictate where we will travel. There will be high elevation hiking and trekking, and physical fitness is one of the prerequisites — therefore, it is time to start training by hiking up and down the hillsides near my home, as well as some backpacking to build stamina.

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I am SO excited!
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