Happy April Fools Day! Unfortunately, it is no joke that Liv and I are up early this morning to pack, have breakfast, and be ready to leave by 8 AM. A very short sleep last night! Today’s destination is Bayamo, which is located about 4 hours drive, in southeastern Cuba. It is the capital city of the Granma Province and one of the largest in eastern Cuba. Founded in 1513 by Diego Velázquez, it is Cuba’s second oldest city. Our route takes us past agriculture and ranch land and in view of the rugged Sierra Maestra mountains, |
which we are told were a major base of Castro’s guerrilla army. Our 4 hour journey to Bayamo takes us through more agricultural and ranching areas, and through the small cities and villages. We also see the Sierra Crital and Sierra Purial mountains that contain a wilderness mountain rainforest — too bad we won’t be spending time in the mountains!
In the early 19th century Bayamo was the cradle of revolt against Spanish rule. So much so that in 1869 the town’s citizens razed their city to the ground rather than surrender to the Spanish forces. Many key sites remain and today the restored historic core is a national monument. Today, Bayamo is a world leader in sustainable transportation. A UN study found only about 15% of commuters use motorized transportation. Almost three-times as many people use licensed horse-drawn carriages (ciudad de los coches) and the rest travel by bicycle or our favorite — bici-taxis!
After being dropped off by our driver Hector, we walk to the main square, Plaza de la Revolución, which is a central meeting point and surrounded by pedestrian-only streets, making it very quiet and peaceful. Bayamo is recognized for its outdoor music venues, many of which take place at this plaza.
After being dropped off by our driver Hector, we walk to the main square, Plaza de la Revolución, which is a central meeting point and surrounded by pedestrian-only streets, making it very quiet and peaceful. Bayamo is recognized for its outdoor music venues, many of which take place at this plaza.
Our first visit is to Casa de la Nacionalidad Cubana (House of Cuban Nationality — CNC), which was founded in 1991 as a research center on the historical, social and cultural roots of of the country. The Center was founded by Onoria Céspedes Argote, who was also the first woman designated as a city historian in Cuba.
We meet with and learn more about the history of Cuba with a local historian who shares that education was conceived as the fulcrum around which the Cuban Revolution’s economic, political, social and cultural programs would turn. On January 1, 1961, a National Literacy Campaign was launched sending 235,000 volunteers throughout the country. In just one-year they reduced the country’s illiteracy rate from 25% to 3.9%. Wanting to capitalize upon this wave of popular mobilization and eduction, Fidel and Ché launched the idea for art schools that would serve Cubans as a center for the education of artists and instructors and from which cultural literacy could be disseminated. Because of Ché’s international interests, the program drew students from Africa, Asia and Latin America in service of the creation of a “new culture” for the “new man.” In this way, the art schools would have the political objective to educate those artists who give socialism in both Cuba and the Third World its aesthetic representation.. They would also be experimental centers for intercultural educate and exchange.
Here, we also are treated to the beautiful voices of a local choir that has performed throughout Cuba and abroad.
We meet with and learn more about the history of Cuba with a local historian who shares that education was conceived as the fulcrum around which the Cuban Revolution’s economic, political, social and cultural programs would turn. On January 1, 1961, a National Literacy Campaign was launched sending 235,000 volunteers throughout the country. In just one-year they reduced the country’s illiteracy rate from 25% to 3.9%. Wanting to capitalize upon this wave of popular mobilization and eduction, Fidel and Ché launched the idea for art schools that would serve Cubans as a center for the education of artists and instructors and from which cultural literacy could be disseminated. Because of Ché’s international interests, the program drew students from Africa, Asia and Latin America in service of the creation of a “new culture” for the “new man.” In this way, the art schools would have the political objective to educate those artists who give socialism in both Cuba and the Third World its aesthetic representation.. They would also be experimental centers for intercultural educate and exchange.
Here, we also are treated to the beautiful voices of a local choir that has performed throughout Cuba and abroad.
Famished, we head to lunch at La Bodega, which is located on the plaza. Its rear terrace overlooks Río Bayamo tucked into a verdant landscape. Today we are eating family style with pork and vaca frita, a shredded beef, that the restaurant is known for ... along with sides and dessert.
After lunch we walk to the Plaza for an educate exchange with members of Project “Guerrilla de Teatreros", a multi-disciplinary collaboration between dance, theater, cinema, music, magic and the fine arts to bring artistic expression to the rural communities of the region. It carries out its mission with the precision of a military campaign. Participants have been known to walk between villages in the Sierra Maestra carrying little food or extra clothing. Additionally, they perform throughout the region visiting about 200 population settlements (many smaller than villages) to perform at schools, hospitals, labor centers and military units. Some of their performances carry messages about sex education, health, sports, and the value of the government party. Buerilla de Teatreros is one of the most prestigious theater groups of its kind in Cuba.
Next, we walk through the historic city center to the Oswaldo Guayasamin art school to meet with students and professors at the print workshop. Named after the late Ecuadorean artist Oswaldo Guayasamin, who was a dedicated socialist, supporter of the Cuban revolution, and close friend to Fidel Castro. Incidentally, Oswaldo was the son of an indigenous Quechua Indian father and mixed race mother.
Then, it’s back on the bus for a two-hour drive to Santiago de Cuba and the Hotel Mélia Santiago. During this portion of today's journey we rise in elevation and see the Sierra Crital and Sierra Purial mountains that are home to a wilderness mountain rainforest — too bad we won’t be spending time in the mountains!
Enroute, we stop at El Cobre, the most important shrine for Cubans and most famous church in the country. The spectacular triple-domed church with the mouthful name of El Sanctuario de Nuestra Señora de la Caridad del Cobre was built in 1927. It rises on Maboa hill in the foothills of the Sierra Maestra near old copper mines that give it its name.
The faithful come from across Cuba on pilgrimages to pay their respects to, and ask for protection from, a black Madonna — the Virgen de la Caridad (Virgin of Charity). She is nothing less than the protectress of Cuba, and her image, cloaked in a glittering gold robe can be seen throughout the country. According to legend, Cuba's patron saint was rescued bobbing in the Bay of Nipe in 1611 by three young fishermen (or miners, depending on who's telling the story) about to capsize in a storm. The Madonna wore a sign that read: "Yo soy la Virgen de la Caridad" (I am the Virgin of Charity). With the wooden statue in their grasp, they miraculously made it to shore. Pilgrims, who often make the last section of the trek on their knees, pray to her image and place mementos (votos) and offerings of thanks for her miracles; among them are small boats and prayers for those who have tried to make it to Florida on rafts. Ernest Hemingway, whose fisherman in The Old Man and the Sea made a promise to visit the shrine if he could only land his marlin, donated his Nobel Prize for Literature to the shrine, but it was stolen (and later recovered, but never again exhibited here).
Her parallel figure in Afro-Cuban worship is Ochún, goddess of love and femininity, who is also dark-skinned and dressed in bright yellow garments. In 1998 the Pope visited and blessed the shrine, calling the Virgin "La Reina de los Cubanos" (Queen of Cubans), and donated a rosary and crown.
The Virgen sits on the second floor, up the back stairs, encased in glass. When Mass is said, the push of a button turns the Virgin around to face the congregation. The annual pilgrimage is September 12, and the patron saint's feast day is July 25.
The faithful come from across Cuba on pilgrimages to pay their respects to, and ask for protection from, a black Madonna — the Virgen de la Caridad (Virgin of Charity). She is nothing less than the protectress of Cuba, and her image, cloaked in a glittering gold robe can be seen throughout the country. According to legend, Cuba's patron saint was rescued bobbing in the Bay of Nipe in 1611 by three young fishermen (or miners, depending on who's telling the story) about to capsize in a storm. The Madonna wore a sign that read: "Yo soy la Virgen de la Caridad" (I am the Virgin of Charity). With the wooden statue in their grasp, they miraculously made it to shore. Pilgrims, who often make the last section of the trek on their knees, pray to her image and place mementos (votos) and offerings of thanks for her miracles; among them are small boats and prayers for those who have tried to make it to Florida on rafts. Ernest Hemingway, whose fisherman in The Old Man and the Sea made a promise to visit the shrine if he could only land his marlin, donated his Nobel Prize for Literature to the shrine, but it was stolen (and later recovered, but never again exhibited here).
Her parallel figure in Afro-Cuban worship is Ochún, goddess of love and femininity, who is also dark-skinned and dressed in bright yellow garments. In 1998 the Pope visited and blessed the shrine, calling the Virgin "La Reina de los Cubanos" (Queen of Cubans), and donated a rosary and crown.
The Virgen sits on the second floor, up the back stairs, encased in glass. When Mass is said, the push of a button turns the Virgin around to face the congregation. The annual pilgrimage is September 12, and the patron saint's feast day is July 25.
The drive into Santiago de Cuba is typical scenery with lots of small homes on acreage in the rural areas and as we get closer to the city becoming more dense and Sovet-style bloc housing. Nearing our hotel, we have our first glimpse of the Plaza de Revolución with its huge statue of Antonio Maceo and equally impressive angled iron bars symbolizing machetes, which are metaphors for the Protesta de Baraguá that took place on July 23, 1878.
It is after 7PM when we arrive at Hotel Mélia Santiago — just in time to leave our things in our room and head to the hotel’s bar to order a drink and then hit the hotel's buffet. A very, very long day!
It is after 7PM when we arrive at Hotel Mélia Santiago — just in time to leave our things in our room and head to the hotel’s bar to order a drink and then hit the hotel's buffet. A very, very long day!