Great sleep — all was quiet until 5AM when the over a loudspeaker broadcasted a muezzin calling the faithful to prayer … laid in bed meditating on my experiences yesterday in the first Secret Crypt at the Dendera Temple.
Forgive me for not mentioning earlier in this blog, but at each sacred site we visited there was generally men who offered to show one or more of us various things. For instance, it could be a particular bas-relief, a chamber, or sometimes even to suggest that I placed my hands or heart on a sculpture or a bas-relief of a god or goddess. I doubt they are paid by the overseers of the sites or government, and they always asked for money in reciprocity. So far, these have always proven to be experiences that have energetically been of value to me … possibly immense value as these energetic exchanges between temple / pyramid / effigy and I have a chance to grow our relationship.
Forgive me for not mentioning earlier in this blog, but at each sacred site we visited there was generally men who offered to show one or more of us various things. For instance, it could be a particular bas-relief, a chamber, or sometimes even to suggest that I placed my hands or heart on a sculpture or a bas-relief of a god or goddess. I doubt they are paid by the overseers of the sites or government, and they always asked for money in reciprocity. So far, these have always proven to be experiences that have energetically been of value to me … possibly immense value as these energetic exchanges between temple / pyramid / effigy and I have a chance to grow our relationship.
Anyway, while in the first Sacred Crypt yesterday at the Dendera Temple, a man suggested that I place both hands on either side of a bas-relief of Horus and my forehead (third eye) against his falcon’s head. Doing so, I immediately felt the energy exchange through my hands and travel down my spine. Then, the man followed me as I made my way to the other end of the crypt. As I was staring at a bas-relief of Hathor, having especially been drawn to this one of many, he motioned for me to lean into it with my whole body. Like a jolt of electricity my heart-center exploded open, leaving me feeling momentarily disoriented afterwards. |
Now, lying in bed, my mind questions the two experiences to open my heart further — Saqqara and Dendera — are connected to my not feeling Rick’s presence with me here in Egypt. Immediately, I hear Juan Apasa reminding me not to be seduced by premature evaluation. With that, I head off to shower and dress for today’s adventure.
Karnak
The archaeological site known today as Karnak is the ancient site of the Temple of Amun at Thebes. The early Egyptians called the site Nesut-Towi (Throne of Two Lands), Ipet-Swt (Selected Spot) due to the belief that Thebes was the first city founded on the primordial mound that rose from the waters of chaos at the beginning of the world. At that time, Atum (the creator-god) stood on the mound to begin the work of creation. It is believed that Karnak was also an ancient observatory and place of worship where the god Amon interacted directly with the people of earth. The temple is uniquely aligned with the winter solstice sunrise, and its enclosure is situated at the only place where the solstitial line is perpendicular to the course of the Nile.
Karnak encompasses a vast area that was built gradually over many centuries, with each new ruler adding to it, starting from the beginning of the Middle Kingdom (2040-1782BCE) through the New Kingdom (1570-1069BCE) the throughout the Ptolemaic Dynasty (323-30BCE). Some archaeologists have even suggested that it dates back further to the Old Kingdom (2613-2181BCE) due to the style of some of the ruins and a list of kings from the Old Kingdom monarchs inscribed by Tuthmose III (1458-1425BCE).
Karnak encompasses a vast area that was built gradually over many centuries, with each new ruler adding to it, starting from the beginning of the Middle Kingdom (2040-1782BCE) through the New Kingdom (1570-1069BCE) the throughout the Ptolemaic Dynasty (323-30BCE). Some archaeologists have even suggested that it dates back further to the Old Kingdom (2613-2181BCE) due to the style of some of the ruins and a list of kings from the Old Kingdom monarchs inscribed by Tuthmose III (1458-1425BCE).
The complex is divided into three main areas. The largest of these is the Temple of Amon, which is laid out along two axes with a sacred lake at the intersection. The principal axis extends east-west from the great entrance to sanctuary at the rear of the temple. Along this route, which was designed to track the passage of the sun from its rising to its setting, are courtyards, shrines, altars and obelisks. |
The other two areas are the Temple of Montu (god of war), and the Temple of Mut (goddess of the sky), and consort of Amun-Ra. The latter area is still archaeologically largely unexplored and is connected to the Sanctuary of Amon by an avenue of sphinxes.
Unfortunately, there was only time to explore the largest of these areas — the Temple of Amon — and even then there not time to "see it all". This temple is, in fact, the world’s largest religious structure with columns and according to some historians could contain the whole of Notre-Dame Cathedral in Paris.
Unfortunately, there was only time to explore the largest of these areas — the Temple of Amon — and even then there not time to "see it all". This temple is, in fact, the world’s largest religious structure with columns and according to some historians could contain the whole of Notre-Dame Cathedral in Paris.
We approached the Temple of Amon by walking up the Avenue of Sphinxes to the 1st Pylon (monumental gateway). This pylon was the last to be built at Karnak. It was never completed and left undecorated, and now serves as the main entrance to the temple. The 1st Pylon dates back to the Ptolemy dynasty and was built by Nectanebo (380-362BC), who is also credited for building the enclosure wall surrounding all of Karnak. Between the front paws of the ram-headed sphinxes is a small effigy of Ramesses II, in the form of Osiris.
I am overwhelmed by my first glimpse at the immense scale of this temple. It did not disappoint!
I am overwhelmed by my first glimpse at the immense scale of this temple. It did not disappoint!
The first courtyard is known as the Ethiopian Courtyard and dates back to the IX dynasty signage explains the chronology of the temples built here. To the right is the entrance to the Temple of Ramses III. [4c and 4c2].
As we approach the 2nd Pylon, to the right is the remaining column of the once gigantic Pavillon of Ethiopian King Taharka. Standing almost 70 feet tall, it features an open papyrus top.
On the left stands the 34-foot tall statue of Ramesses II. This statue was later usurped by Ramesses VI (1143-1136BC) and still later by Pinedjem, who was the High Priest of Amon in Thebes (Luxor) and later the XXI dynasty pharaoh. The king wears the headdress with double crown symbolizing his reign over both Upper and Lower Egypt, and his crossed arms hold a crook and flail representing his kingship. At his feet is his daughter Princess Bent'anta.
On the left stands the 34-foot tall statue of Ramesses II. This statue was later usurped by Ramesses VI (1143-1136BC) and still later by Pinedjem, who was the High Priest of Amon in Thebes (Luxor) and later the XXI dynasty pharaoh. The king wears the headdress with double crown symbolizing his reign over both Upper and Lower Egypt, and his crossed arms hold a crook and flail representing his kingship. At his feet is his daughter Princess Bent'anta.
Passing through the 2nd Pylon, which was begun by Horemheb (1323-1294BC) and completed by Ramesses I, we entered the Great Hypostyle Hall. The hall, which is considered one of the greatest pieces of ancient Egyptian art, was built by Seti I.
There was so much to see, photograph (as the light was so beautiful) and feel energetically that after a few minutes listening to Freddy, I found myself wandering through the 334-1/2’ x 174’ hall. It’s truly amazing to imagine what this might have looked like at its zenith — these 134 massive 75-foot tall columns — once polychromed and holding up a roof decorated perhaps with bas-relief stars and celestial maps. Breathtaking as is … I took lots of photographs!
The outer walls on the north-side depict Seti's battles. His son, Ramesses II completed the south-side of the hall and usurped the decorations of his father — noticing a theme. Later pharaohs including Ramesses' III, IV and VI added hieroglyphs and decoration to the walls and columns.
[Historical Note: On October 3, 1899, a dozen columns toppled in the northern part of the hall. A massive reconstruction effort was instituted soon thereafter which is evidenced in some of the photographs.]
There was so much to see, photograph (as the light was so beautiful) and feel energetically that after a few minutes listening to Freddy, I found myself wandering through the 334-1/2’ x 174’ hall. It’s truly amazing to imagine what this might have looked like at its zenith — these 134 massive 75-foot tall columns — once polychromed and holding up a roof decorated perhaps with bas-relief stars and celestial maps. Breathtaking as is … I took lots of photographs!
The outer walls on the north-side depict Seti's battles. His son, Ramesses II completed the south-side of the hall and usurped the decorations of his father — noticing a theme. Later pharaohs including Ramesses' III, IV and VI added hieroglyphs and decoration to the walls and columns.
[Historical Note: On October 3, 1899, a dozen columns toppled in the northern part of the hall. A massive reconstruction effort was instituted soon thereafter which is evidenced in some of the photographs.]
Walking further towards the 3rd and 4th Pylons, we stopped to look back at the Obelisk of Thuthmosis I — once upon a time there were four obelisks, but only one remains. It is 75 feet tall and weighs 143 tons (286,000 pounds)!
Next, we headed towards the Temple of Ptah. You may remember that Ptah was the god of Memphis, the old capital in the north of Egypt. His priests believed he created the world. By the third millennium, he was ranked third in the ancient Egyptian divine hierarchy — behind Amon (king of the gods; god of Thebes) and Ra (sun god). Together, the latter two gods became, by the 18th dynasty the supreme god of all of Egypt and known as Amon-Ra.
The walk itself was interesting in that the exterior walls of the Temple of Amun have scenes carved into them detailing the pharaoh's building projects and restoration work, which they believed to be as important as new buildings. Some carvings depicted rituals, festivals and military exploits. Pharaohs also typically completed unfinished projects started by their predecessor, who often was their father. Though their color has long since worn away, these wall decorations were originally brightly polychromed. |
Walking further we stopped at the small chapel of the Temple of Ptah that offered me the most powerful experience of the day.
A statue of Sekhmet, whom up to that moment I was totally unaware. As it turns out, Sekhmet is the lioness aspect of Hathor also referred to as the “Powerful One.” As the mythological story goes … when Ra — the sun god and Hathor’s father — became old, humankind began to plot against him. Hearing this, he became enraged and sent the divine Eye, the terrifying burning power of the sun to slaughter them. The Eye took the form of Hathor, as the lioness Sekhmet, who killed all of the wicked men and women in a massive bloodbath. When Ra determined that enough killing had taken place, he called an end to the slaughter. Had he not intervened, Sekhmet would have destroyed all of humanity. Owing to Sekhmet's importance as a fierce goddess, many larger-than-life size stone sculptures of her were carved during the 18th dynasty rule of the pharaoh Amenhotep III. She is portrayed as a lion-headed woman with a sun disc behind her head and carries a papyrus-scepter and the ankh-sign in her hands that represents her capacity to give life and fertility through the annual Nile floods. |
While most everyone crowded into the tiny chapel’s room where Sekhmet stands, with only the light from a small hole in the ceiling to illuminate her, I went back to the room at the chapel’s entrance where a decapitated statue of Ptah sits. Feeling compelled to put my hand on Ptah’s back at I felt a slight energetic vibration enter my body, but when I simultaneously put my other hand on the statue at its heart center the vibrational frequency rose substantially and I felt it as a jolt in my solar plexus (3rd chakra). |
As others in our group moved out of Sekhmet’s room, I went back in to quietly experience her energy and photograph. Also there were Gypsy and Paddy. Just as we were about to leave, an Egyptian man that had been hanging out at this chapel motioned for us to stay and one by one step over the chain barrier and ask Sekhmet’s help in some aspect of our life. I needed no encouragement, and holding each of her hands in mine, asked for her help to more finely align my vision with my actions. As I silently asked Sekhmet, I felt a surge of energy course up my arms into my third eye and crown chakras
All I wanted to do was sit quietly somewhere and hold the energy that was coursing through my body. Lovely as that would have been, there was still so much I wanted to see and experience. We three retraced our steps back to the Great Hypostyle Hall and then parted company. Gypsy and I headed back to the Ethiopian Courtyard and then onto the Temple of Ramses III (1184-1153BC).
For days now, I’ve found myself infatuated with the hieroglyphs and pictorial imagery. How I wish I had both time and someone knowledgable with me to teach me how to decipher all that has been painstakingly created. There is so much information and knowledge written on the walls of tombs, temples and pyramids … what do they say … what was so important for these ancient ones to communicate …
For days now, I’ve found myself infatuated with the hieroglyphs and pictorial imagery. How I wish I had both time and someone knowledgable with me to teach me how to decipher all that has been painstakingly created. There is so much information and knowledge written on the walls of tombs, temples and pyramids … what do they say … what was so important for these ancient ones to communicate …
Then, making our way back through the Great Hypostyle Hall, we turned right between the 3rd and 4th pylons. Stopping briefly to photograph the exterior of the Building of Pharaohs.
Instead of continuing on to the 10th pylon, we cut over to the Sacred Lake where ancient Egyptian priests purified themselves before performing temple rituals. Once there, we met up with others who led us to a granite statue of a huge scarab (khephri), which was worshipped by ancient Egyptians since the time of Amenhotep III. The front face of the sculpture’s pedestal was flattened to form a stele that is carved in sunk relief. |
On it, is depicted a kneeling king making an offering to Atum, the god of creation. Between two extended wings is a sun disk. The hieroglyphs describe Khephri, as a scarab or scarab-headed man who was patron of the sun, creation, life and resurrection. More specifically his job description was to roll the sun like a huge ball through the sky and then through the underworld to the eastern horizon. In other words, his sacred duty was to renew the sun each day to bring life into to the world. |
The two Aussie gals on our adventure, Deb and Olga, told us that the ancestors believed walking around the statue three times brings good luck, going around seven times brings marriage, and nine times causes infertile women to become pregnant. Counting very carefully, I walked around the sacred scarab six times … great relationship with no attachment of marriage? For a while we just meandered around walking towards the 6th Pylon. |
For a while we just meandered the 6th Pylon and the Middle Empire Courtyard.
Eventually we found our way to the Temple of Hatshepsut, who was the fifth ruler of the 18th dynasty and daughter of Thutmose I and Queen Ahmose. Apparently it was common during that time, in royal families, to marry her half-brother Thutmose II, and they had a son, Thutmose III. When Hathepsut's husband died (1479BC), their young son was appointed heir. However due to his young age, Hatshepsut was appointed regent. Together, mother and son ruled until 1473BC, when she declared herself pharaoh. Hatshepsut disappeared around 1458BC, when her son Thutmose III led a revolt and reclaimed the throne. An unforgiving son, he had her shrines, statues and reliefs mutilated. [NOTE: We will visit her mortuary temple at Deir el Bahari outside of Luxor tomorrow.]
The Temple of Hatshepsut contains some beautiful imagery with some of its original polychrome finishes. Here is where I had my second profound experience ... in one very moving image, a completely disfigured Hatshepsut (the work of her son) walks towards the god Horus while encased in an arch of ankhs symbolizing eternal life that flows from two vessels held on the left side by Horus and the other by Thoth, creator of magic and the inventor of writing. Thoth was also a messenger of the gods and divine record-keeper and mediator.
The Temple of Hatshepsut contains some beautiful imagery with some of its original polychrome finishes. Here is where I had my second profound experience ... in one very moving image, a completely disfigured Hatshepsut (the work of her son) walks towards the god Horus while encased in an arch of ankhs symbolizing eternal life that flows from two vessels held on the left side by Horus and the other by Thoth, creator of magic and the inventor of writing. Thoth was also a messenger of the gods and divine record-keeper and mediator.
Immediately after, we walked into the holy of holies — the Sanctuary of Philip Arrhidaeus — who was Alexander the Great's successor. This is where I had my third powerful experience for the day.
The wall of the Sanctuary are inscribed with a storybook of images while the ceiling looks to have been painted blue with thousands of stars. At its center is a huge block of granite that emits very powerful energy. Placing both hands and my third eye upon it, a rush of energy coursed through my body — a great energetic cleansing of energy centers!
The wall of the Sanctuary are inscribed with a storybook of images while the ceiling looks to have been painted blue with thousands of stars. At its center is a huge block of granite that emits very powerful energy. Placing both hands and my third eye upon it, a rush of energy coursed through my body — a great energetic cleansing of energy centers!
With only about 40 minutes left before we needed to meet up with our group and leave Karnak, Gypsy and I raced back towards the 10th Pylon. This south axis, which intersects with the main axis, at the 4th Pylon was constructed during the reign of Hatshepsut, who also built the 8th Pylon. Later, her vengeful son Thutmosis III erected the 7th Pylon along with his obelisks, and a repository chapel for the Amun barque (sacred boat) used during the annual Opet Festival.
Amenhotep III began construction of the 10th Pylon, which was completed by Horemheb, the last king of the 18th dynasty. As you may remember, Horemheb also built the 2nd Pylon as well at the 9th Pylon.
Amenhotep III began construction of the 10th Pylon, which was completed by Horemheb, the last king of the 18th dynasty. As you may remember, Horemheb also built the 2nd Pylon as well at the 9th Pylon.
This processional “avenue” used during the annual Festival of the Sanctuary, was once lined with stone sphinxes spaced at 16-foot intervals — over 1,000 sphinxes — extended to the Precinct of Mut and to the Temple of Luxor. For centuries this “avenue” was covered by sand, debris, other roadways and buildings. |
It is now being slowly restored to its ancient glory by Egypt’s Ministry of Antiquities. It is an epic undertaking worthy of the ancient pharaohs!
Hungry, thirsty and with less than 10 minutes, we rushed back to the meet our group ... and head to lunch!
Hungry, thirsty and with less than 10 minutes, we rushed back to the meet our group ... and head to lunch!