What a wonderful night's sleep. Woke early and refreshed. Unpacked after a hot shower before heading down to breakfast. Oh, how I love an traditional English breakfast with eggs, mushroom, toast and bacon!
Today we've decided to explore the village of Chagford. Our first stop, however, is Castle Drogo, one of the last grand country houses built between 1910-30 by architect Sir Edwin Lutyens as a magnificent mock castle. Now, part of the National Trust, we content ourselves with exploring and photographing the gardens, as the castle is closed due to undergoing major renovations (another trip) to make it watertight.
Originally, Lutyens proposed an elaborate terraced garden on the east side of the property overlooking the Teign Gorge, however, the owner Julius Drewe wanted a private garden away from the castle where his family could relax out of sight of the servants. The garden had to be cut out of the rock and then dug into terraces, which resulted in a 12-acre formal garden with grants walls, domed Ironwood trees and "corridors."
Today we've decided to explore the village of Chagford. Our first stop, however, is Castle Drogo, one of the last grand country houses built between 1910-30 by architect Sir Edwin Lutyens as a magnificent mock castle. Now, part of the National Trust, we content ourselves with exploring and photographing the gardens, as the castle is closed due to undergoing major renovations (another trip) to make it watertight.
Originally, Lutyens proposed an elaborate terraced garden on the east side of the property overlooking the Teign Gorge, however, the owner Julius Drewe wanted a private garden away from the castle where his family could relax out of sight of the servants. The garden had to be cut out of the rock and then dug into terraces, which resulted in a 12-acre formal garden with grants walls, domed Ironwood trees and "corridors."
Hungry. We pass on the hike down to the picturesque Teign Gorge (another trip) and instead head to Chagford, one of the favorite Devon villages of our nuest'a sister Mama Rosa. After finding a parking place, we head to Webber & Sons and James Bowdin & Sons to make a few purchases before meandering through the village.
We planned our visit to Chagford on Friday to coincide with their Farmer's Market at St. Michael's Church Hall. In addition to produce there are also crafts and "nearly new" items for sale.
On the way to lunch at Whiddons Eatery, we walk pass the old church and graveyard.
Whiddons Eatery is in a thatched building, parts of which date back to the 16th century, with much of its old world charm intact. It is an unlicensed establishment, so diners can bring their own tipple with no corkage fee. Fortunate for us, we were able to sit at the front window table and people watch as the clouds finally opened up with a rain shower. Our waiter was Charlie Whiddon, son of the current owners . . . the restaurant has since changed ownership. My lunch was a delicious beef en croute with roasted potatoes, cauliflower and broccoli.
Chagford is downright charming . . . what seemingly could take 10 minutes to walk around, occupies the better part of the whole afternoon. We watch a man repair a thatched roof, spend an hour or so in a local artisan gallery browsing around and talking to the owner, explore many more shops including a great dress shop, and purchase a ginger treacle tart at the local bakery. My apologies for not photographing it before consuming every last morsel — I did, however, take a pic of the receipt!
Getting on towards dinner time and knowing we'll not want to go out after this all day excursion, we stopped in Moretonhamstead for a bite at the Horse & Nosebag Pub. The rustic bar is packed and noisy. As we are early for dinner, it's a 20 minute wait, which passes quickly over pints of dark beer. Finding a leather sofa, we recap the day as we people watch. When it becomes time to be seated for dinner, we wind through a maze of rooms. The menu is intriguing . . . and though I shouldn't be hungry, I am . . . especially when I see Moules frites on the menu. |
I am a sucker for steamed mussels, and these are from the River Exe and cooked in local cider with cream, sweet chilli and garlic. They also come with skinny fries and homemade aioli. Yummy delicious!
Satiated, we find our way back to Highfield House before it gets too dark . . . and we become lost!