Today is our "early" day . . . clothes were laid out last night so we can meet the others at Park House for a light nibble before heading to London's Central Market — Smithfield Market — for a 6:45AM guided tour.
Taking the Tube to the Barbican, an old Roman part of the City of London where troops were housed, we walk along some of the oldest streets and past the Hand & Shears Pub, a traditional 19th century pub named by the cloth merchants who populated this area. The date posted above the pub's door, however, proclaims it was established as an inn dating back to 1532. A block further up is the beautiful Church of St Bartholomew the Less — one that I make a mental note to visit after our tour of Smithfield Market.
Taking the Tube to the Barbican, an old Roman part of the City of London where troops were housed, we walk along some of the oldest streets and past the Hand & Shears Pub, a traditional 19th century pub named by the cloth merchants who populated this area. The date posted above the pub's door, however, proclaims it was established as an inn dating back to 1532. A block further up is the beautiful Church of St Bartholomew the Less — one that I make a mental note to visit after our tour of Smithfield Market.
Smithfield Market is the largest wholesale meat market in the UK. It dates back to the 1200s when first it was a livestock market. Around 1853 it transitioned into a meat and poultry market. Ten years later, the original London Tube was created. The present Market is was designed by Horace Jones in the 1880s — he also was the architect for Tower Bridge — and is comprised of three buildings with beautiful iron work. Now City of London owned, it is open to the trade and the public from 3AM. By 6:45AM when we arrive the frenzy is long over. Just as well as it would have been otherwise impossible to photograph!
Of course, Smithfield Market also has controversy that is described as a finely balanced argument between heritage and development. Nothing new there . . .
Of course, Smithfield Market also has controversy that is described as a finely balanced argument between heritage and development. Nothing new there . . .
After the Market, we head across Charterhouse Street to Paul for a proper breakfast of Croque Monsieur and hot chocolate. Fortified, Gypsy, Petunia and I head off to explore until our next group activity . . . lunch.
Retracing our steps back through Smithfield Market, we head to St. Bartholomew-the-Less, which is an old Anglican church with a tower and west facade dating from the 15th century. Two of its three bells are even older (1380 and 1420). Having sustained damage during the London Blitz of WWII, it was repaired and reopened by 1951. Though rather small inside, it has a wonderfully peaceful countenance perhaps due to its octagonal Gothic vaulted ceiling and several side chapels that give it an overall traditionally rectangular feel. The natural filtered light of the church is beautiful. Unfortunately, the earthly powers-that-be have determined to place modern spotlights as visibly and obtrusively as possible.
Next up, we head in the direction of St. Paul's Cathedral. After the Great Fire of London, in 1666, left this medieval church in ruins, Sir Christopher Wren was commissioned to rebuild it. After much compromise in design style — Wren wanted to model the floorpan after the Greek Cross (four equal arms) while the authorities wanted a Latin Cross with a long nave and short transepts — a glorious Baroque-style cathedral was constructed over 35 years. Much to my disappointment, photography in the Cathedral is prohibited . . . so I only sneaked a couple of images! How I wished to take more . . .
So much to see and too little time to do it nearly justice. I did make a point after seeing the crypt to race up the stairs to the Whispering Gallery.
So much to see and too little time to do it nearly justice. I did make a point after seeing the crypt to race up the stairs to the Whispering Gallery.
Running late, we beeline past fascinating architecture and retrace our steps through Smithfield Market to Fergus Henderson's St. John restaurant to meet the others for lunch. Known for his culinary philosophy of nose-to-tail eating, feast would more accurately describe our fixed menu. My favorite Roast Bone Marrow and Parsley Salad — the meal could have ended there and I'd have been very satisfied. I ate 8 bones and only stopped because I wanted to try the fish pie, potted beef and dessert . . . bread pudding with butterscotch sauce. Yummy . . . another 5 lbs to walk off . . .
Stuffed and barely able to walk, we race to Rosalind Rathouse's Cookery School at Little Portland Street to learn the art of making scones. Though Rosalind exudes a passion and proficiency that would surely make taking a cooking class very wonderful, sadly the warm teaching kitchen has me fighting back a strong desire to snooze! And, fabulous as the scones and muffins she and her helpers pull out of the oven smell and look, I can only (regrettably) eat a bite of each. Too bad this part of our itinerary wasn't after Smithfield Market and before lunch . . . a scheduling flaw!
Back on the street, the cool air slowly revives Gypsy, Petunia and me enough to walk off lunch as we made our way back to the Park Street House. Never too tired for a bit of economic development, we stop at Toast in Marylebone where I buy a dress while Gillian Welsh sings "The Revelatory" over their sound system. A nearby cheese shop and bookstore also beckon us. Tired and too full to even consider dinner, we head back to our townhouse for an early evening.