This morning Juli has organized a treat in store for us . . . she is taking us to a favorite café — Dresden Kaffee Stuebchen on Salzgasse 8 for homemade Eierschecke, a delicious specialty cake from Saxony. Here, it is offered in three varieties — plain, rhubarb and poppyseed. The shop is teeny with only four small tables inside and another two on the sidewalk. |
The wall opposite the cafés counter is covered with customer comments in many languages along with business cards, currency from all over the world — including a $5US bill that I offered up. In itself, the wall is an evolving art installation.
But, I digress . . . Eierschecke is a three-layered cake. The bottom layer was a sponge cake. The middle layer consists of a kind of custard made with milk quark — similar to French forage blanc, Indian paneer or Mexican quest — and flavored with vanilla. The top layer is a light and slightly browned mixture of egg yolk, butter, sugar, and creamy vanilla pudding that is folded into egg whites. We tried each ordered plain cakes and a wedge of a rhubarb one to share along with kaffees and a hot chocolate for me. The cakes were delicious and the hot chocolate rich and just the right amount of bitter to offset the heavenly whipped cream!
But, I digress . . . Eierschecke is a three-layered cake. The bottom layer was a sponge cake. The middle layer consists of a kind of custard made with milk quark — similar to French forage blanc, Indian paneer or Mexican quest — and flavored with vanilla. The top layer is a light and slightly browned mixture of egg yolk, butter, sugar, and creamy vanilla pudding that is folded into egg whites. We tried each ordered plain cakes and a wedge of a rhubarb one to share along with kaffees and a hot chocolate for me. The cakes were delicious and the hot chocolate rich and just the right amount of bitter to offset the heavenly whipped cream!
Satiated, we walked across the road to The Albertinum where I spent the next few hours exploring its collections from the Romantic period (18th — early 19th centuries) to the present. Some of my favorite artworks are below. . .
Hot and visually exhausted from looking at art, I met up with Tejomaya and headed to the Edelweiss Alpen Restaurant where Zelda and Juli were having refreshments. Next, Tejomaya and I head off to the Royal Palace and Green Vault for another dose of culture! There is both the Historic Green Vault and the New Green Vault — both containing massive amounts of objet d'arts showcasing exquisite workmanship, though often times gaudy. |
Below is a sampling of pieces I found of particular interest.
Next, we made our way to the Royal Armory. My heart bleeds for the poor horse that had to carry the weight of its own armor plus that of the rider and his armor!
One of the amazing (to me) sculptures is the Moritz Monument, which is one of the major memorials created by Elector August for his brother Moritz, who won the Saxon electoral dignity for the Albertine branch of the House of Wettin. The monument depicts Elector handing the Saxon electoral sword to this brother August, with their wives positioned slightly behind. Behind Moritz is a fire of Death. Above the princes (brothers) are Holy Trinity — Father, Son and Holy Ghost. The monument commemorates the death of Elector Moritz in the Battle of Sievershausen in 1553. August had it erected on the fortifications of Dresden.
One of the amazing (to me) sculptures is the Moritz Monument, which is one of the major memorials created by Elector August for his brother Moritz, who won the Saxon electoral dignity for the Albertine branch of the House of Wettin. The monument depicts Elector handing the Saxon electoral sword to this brother August, with their wives positioned slightly behind. Behind Moritz is a fire of Death. Above the princes (brothers) are Holy Trinity — Father, Son and Holy Ghost. The monument commemorates the death of Elector Moritz in the Battle of Sievershausen in 1553. August had it erected on the fortifications of Dresden.
In the Coin Cabinet area, are several gorgeous backgammon sets.
Another favorite area for me was the Turkish Chamber. Apparently wealthy Western Europeans were crazy about all things Turkish from the 16th through 19th centuries. Augustus the Strong was no exception and passionately collected Ottoman art and was even known to dress up as a sultan in his own court. A highlight of the collection is a 20-yard long three-poled ornamental elk tent from the 17th-century — the most complete three-masted Ottoman tent on display in Europe. I was enamored with it as well . . . so you will see a number of photographic details!
Not to be missed was a temporary exhibit of Polish Conceptual Art from 1968-81. Polish art of the 60s and 70s displayed a variety and openness unique in socialist Eastern Europe. In contrast to most of its neighbors, artists in Poland were allowed to unfold freely with hardly any interference from the state so long as they did not agitate against the communist system. This exhibition — 50 year after the 1968 social protests erupted in Eastern Europe and 100 years after the founding of the Second Polish Republic — presented the independent, internationally active and well-connected conceptual art scene and captured the meaningful moments and protagonists of this pivotal period.
Long day of art and culture . . . time to head back to the hotel for a cool shower and change of clothes before dinner at a nearby restaurant.
Having missed lunch,, we head back to our beloved Kurfürstenschänke for dessert and another salad for Tejomaya.