Surprisingly, I feel incredibly rested after a night of vivid, lucid dreaming. Metaphorically, each experience on this pilgrimage is confirming a deep knowing and offering another piece of the “how” my life is recalibrating to a truer “North.”
In the midst of my personal work during dreamtime, literally and magically in the early morning hours, with our curtains open to the moonlight and windows closed so not to attract in mosquitos, a “tiger striped” kitten found its way into our room and took up residence curled up with Babe. Still quietly there when I wake to John Lennon singing “Imagine,” Babe has named her Ramana!
In the midst of my personal work during dreamtime, literally and magically in the early morning hours, with our curtains open to the moonlight and windows closed so not to attract in mosquitos, a “tiger striped” kitten found its way into our room and took up residence curled up with Babe. Still quietly there when I wake to John Lennon singing “Imagine,” Babe has named her Ramana!
Before breakfast and the heat of the day sets in, our group sets out on a walking tour around Mount Arunachala. This circumambulation of the sacred mountain is known as Pradakshana (“pra” signifies the removal of all sins, “da” the fulfillment of all desires, “shana” the freedom from the cycle of rebirth), and is a popular pilgrimage. Along the way, we stop at various shrines as well as sacred rocks and trees to make offerings. |
Our group makes it about one-quarter of the way around and after stopping for refreshment and facilities, returns to Sparsa via our bus. Babe and I, however, continue on — it is so good to be walking, seeing India from the ground rather than a bus-eye view. We continue to stop at temples, find a small shop where we purchase spices, and interact with locals using smiles and hand gestures as our means of communication. If I haven’t said it yet (or even not recently), I love India . . . at least the province of Tamil Nadu!
As the intensity of the sun rises higher in the sky, the umbrellas we've been carrying become our shade. Hot, sweaty, and both or us wanting to return to the Sri Ramana Maharashi Ashram before the bookstore closes for the afternoon, we hail a tut-tut at about the one-half mark around Mount Arunachala. Our tut-tut adventure is deafening and smelly, especially when we stop for petrol. Afterwards we get caught in major traffic congestion — at least it seems major to me!
Arriving at our destination, we see others from our group who have come back to spend more time here as well. After making our purchases of more books and photographs at the bookstore, Babe and I sit on the steps outside to eat the power bars we’ve been carrying with us as well as some cookies purchased on our walk. Parting ways after finding bathroom facilities, I go off to further explore the Ashram, photograph and spend time in silent meditation.
Returning to Sparsa via tut-tut, we first stop at the women’s collective — Shanthimalai Handicrafts Development Trust — I first spotted yesterday when we drove into Tiruvannamalai. Our driver waits while we shop. Babe picks up some gifts to bring home and I purchase a selection of incense.
Our driver takes us on a “short-cut" backroad to the hotel, which is a very narrow dirt and sand track with lots of bumps (and no suspension) along the way — we knowingly look at each other thinking what an adventure!
Famished, we are grateful the restaurant is still open when we arrive at Sparsa. We order refreshing mango lassi, a mushroom pepper stir fry that is yummy delish, vegetable fried rice with cucumber raitha and garlic naan. Fully satiated, it’s time for a cool shower and siesta . . . however, first we must change our spa appointments as the day’s itinerary was turned upside down. Fingers crossed, we can book spa treatments for tomorrow!
Our driver takes us on a “short-cut" backroad to the hotel, which is a very narrow dirt and sand track with lots of bumps (and no suspension) along the way — we knowingly look at each other thinking what an adventure!
Famished, we are grateful the restaurant is still open when we arrive at Sparsa. We order refreshing mango lassi, a mushroom pepper stir fry that is yummy delish, vegetable fried rice with cucumber raitha and garlic naan. Fully satiated, it’s time for a cool shower and siesta . . . however, first we must change our spa appointments as the day’s itinerary was turned upside down. Fingers crossed, we can book spa treatments for tomorrow!
Around 5PM, our group gathers to leave for the Arunachaleswarar Temple, which is thought to be the largest in the world dedicated to Shiva. Dating back to the 11th century, it is one of the most captivating temple sites in India. The complex includes nine towers, walled and cloistered enclosures, a large Shivaganga Tank, and a vast thousand-pillared hall. Unfortunately, the temple proper is not open to non-Hindus.
When we arrive, the Temple is awash in the golden light of late afternoon. I am awestruck — and always hope to be — by the magnificence of architecture and the knowledge that thousands of others have walked barefoot over these same stone floors and gazed at the stories told in the intricate stone carvings. I am humbled by the devotion expressed by the hundreds and hundreds of people of all ages who come day and night to receive blessings and moksha.
When we arrive, the Temple is awash in the golden light of late afternoon. I am awestruck — and always hope to be — by the magnificence of architecture and the knowledge that thousands of others have walked barefoot over these same stone floors and gazed at the stories told in the intricate stone carvings. I am humbled by the devotion expressed by the hundreds and hundreds of people of all ages who come day and night to receive blessings and moksha.
We walk by an elephant that takes paper rupees from one’s hand and gives it to his trainer in exchange for receiving a blessing on one's head with his trunk. I silently pray as I receive my blessing that this gorgeous animal is well cared for and loved.
Working our way deeper into the temple complex, we encounter music being played and there is a party-like atmosphere as tonight — the night before the full moon — a puja is being celebrated. In the Nandi shrine, several priests decorate the granite bull with garlands of flowers and prayers. Every so often, the crowd goes wild as the Nandi seems to discharge flowers into his audience. This goes on and on. It is impossible not to feel the high-voltage energy being released by all the devotees of Shiva.
Working our way deeper into the temple complex, we encounter music being played and there is a party-like atmosphere as tonight — the night before the full moon — a puja is being celebrated. In the Nandi shrine, several priests decorate the granite bull with garlands of flowers and prayers. Every so often, the crowd goes wild as the Nandi seems to discharge flowers into his audience. This goes on and on. It is impossible not to feel the high-voltage energy being released by all the devotees of Shiva.
“Om nama Shiva!”
I feel baked . . . filled to the brim with experiences and insights that are just needing to seep deep into my unconsciousness. I am needing not only silence, but no activity so I can nurture these many “seeds” that have been planted here in India so they “grow corn” as Andean medicine people say.
Tired and longing for silence after a long and heartfelt day. Babe and I go back to our room, order room service — same meal as lunch, it was so good — and settle in for an early evening of reading and meditation before turning out the lights and wondering if Ramana kitty will be back for another visit . . . this time we leave the window open a crack!
Tired and longing for silence after a long and heartfelt day. Babe and I go back to our room, order room service — same meal as lunch, it was so good — and settle in for an early evening of reading and meditation before turning out the lights and wondering if Ramana kitty will be back for another visit . . . this time we leave the window open a crack!