Woke this morning around 7AM from a dream: the chaos of the roadways is as primal and elemental as our DNA. In the West, we’ve attempted to “tame” chaos into codified systems (traffic lanes, tenets of behavior, political correctness, etc), while here that doesn’t seem to have happened, or, if it was, it’s not taken hold. No matter, chaos is never truly tamed; that is one of the illusions of the West as we daily witness systems and structures (i.e. financial, governmental, corporate, education, etc) crumble during this time Andean medicine people refer to as Pachakuti — the flipping over or ending of one cycle or epoch and start of another. In my lifetime, from a cycle principally organized around form and structures (masculine) to a birthing of a cycle that is much more fluid and negotiable (feminine).
After showering and repacking, Babe and I head to the breakfast buffet, stopping to say good-morning to others in our group. My Indian friend Praneet recommended that I try idli, a soft steamed lentil rice cake, medu vada, crispy fried donuts made with dal and dunked in hot sambhar and coconut chutney. Yum . . . along with two fried eggs! Sambhar, I will soon discover to my delight, is served at every meal and has many variations, as do chutneys. | |
We quickly understand that time schedules in India (and this trip) are similar to being on “shaman-time.” It happens when it happens. Our 10AM departure actually occurs closer to noon as dinner bills are paid, baggage is brought down from our rooms, accounted for, and stowed in our large comfortable tour bus. Today we head to Mahabalipuram. Though the distance is rather close — 36 miles — it takes more than 90 minutes due to traffic gridlock. On our way out of Chennai, we drive past what looks like governmental complexes before heading south along the Indian Ocean. |
Enroute, Andrew reads us passages from his favorite section of the Upanishads, which contain some profound Hindu wisdom and include the mystical teachings of the Divine nature of men and women as aspects of God. Upon arriving at the Grande Bay Resort and Spa we are met with a traditional Indian welcome — a garland of seed pods, a blessing with a red bindi, and warm ginger lemonade to counter the 90+ temperature and high humidity. Though we only met yesterday, Chindi Varadarajulu also welcomes us as dear friends. |
While registering proceeds slowly, Babe and I dash down to check out the gorgeous pool and grounds — the beach is just beyond. After receiving the key to our suite, we head off to our spacious, second-floor room overlooking a central greenbelt just east of the pool. Settled in, Babe and I head for the spa to check out its offerings and make appointments for Thai massages the next day.
Famished, we head to L’attitude 49 for a very late lunch. The buffet is yummy-delish … curried fish, rice with veggies to which I add some sambar, dal, garlic naan, and a Kingfisher beer that is light and very refreshing!
Famished, we head to L’attitude 49 for a very late lunch. The buffet is yummy-delish … curried fish, rice with veggies to which I add some sambar, dal, garlic naan, and a Kingfisher beer that is light and very refreshing!
About an hour later, after returning to our suite to change clothes, we head off to meet our group and hear Andrew share more about the customs, rules, and etiquette of the places we will visit as well as some of the organizing principles associated with Lord Shiva. Then we chant “Om” together. Some, including Babe, share where they felt the vibration most strongly, and Andrew tells them that is the chakra that needs more opening. For Babe it was the throat chakra, which Andrew tells her is true for many women as they have not felt safe or supported to tell their truth. An ex-special forces man shares that it was around his heart, which Andrew acknowledges is common for men who have not felt safe to experience vulnerability or deep intimacy. An artist shares he, too, felt the “om” lodged just beneath his heart.
Before heading off to the cooking demonstration and Welcome Dinner, Nandi shares gifts with us women. He explains that in Hindi culture, women are adorned with 16 baubles as he pulls bracelets, necklaces and ankle bracelets out of a small duffle for us to select our treasures.
Before heading off to the cooking demonstration and Welcome Dinner, Nandi shares gifts with us women. He explains that in Hindi culture, women are adorned with 16 baubles as he pulls bracelets, necklaces and ankle bracelets out of a small duffle for us to select our treasures.
The L’Attitude 49 cooking demonstration is outdoors. Thankfully, the heat of the day has subsided a bit, but the humidity and a few mosquitos linger. Chindi, owner of the restaurant, and executive chef Dhiraj Vijayan welcome us as we are seated auditorium style. Chindi begins by describing the South Indian cuisine, and how it differs from food in the North. She tells us that much of what we know as Indian food is actually Northern Indian cuisine. For instance:
Starches: Because rice and lentils are grown in the South they, rather than wheat (naan, samosas and roti), is a prominent component in the majority of dishes. In the South dishes such as dosa (a lentil and rice crepe), idli (steamed lentil rice cakes), saaru/rasam (tomato, tamarind and lentil soul, sambar (spicy lentil and vegetable stew) are prominent.
Spices: Because of the hotter weather, Southern Indian foods are much spicier. A sambar powder called Huli pudi, tamarind and dried curry leaves is often used to spice dishes in the South. In contrast, garam masala is the predominant spice mixture used in the North as well as dried fenugreek leaves.
Texture: South Indian food has a higher water content unlike the typical creamier dishes of the North sun as palak paneer (spinach and cheese).
Sauces: Sauces are thinner in the South and thicker in the North, which relies on using breads to scoop it up.
Influences: Southern cuisine is influenced by Dravidians, while Northern cooking is heavily influenced by Arabs and Persians.
Prominent Ingredients: In the south coconut, native fruits, curry leaves and coconut oil and mild are used frequently, while in the north a lot of yogurt, onion, tomatoes, and garlic are used.
While Chindi educates us on the differences, Dhiraj, begins prepping to teach us how to make Jeera Rice, Dal Palak, Beans Porival and Era Varuval (marsala fried prawns). The recipes are below:
Starches: Because rice and lentils are grown in the South they, rather than wheat (naan, samosas and roti), is a prominent component in the majority of dishes. In the South dishes such as dosa (a lentil and rice crepe), idli (steamed lentil rice cakes), saaru/rasam (tomato, tamarind and lentil soul, sambar (spicy lentil and vegetable stew) are prominent.
Spices: Because of the hotter weather, Southern Indian foods are much spicier. A sambar powder called Huli pudi, tamarind and dried curry leaves is often used to spice dishes in the South. In contrast, garam masala is the predominant spice mixture used in the North as well as dried fenugreek leaves.
Texture: South Indian food has a higher water content unlike the typical creamier dishes of the North sun as palak paneer (spinach and cheese).
Sauces: Sauces are thinner in the South and thicker in the North, which relies on using breads to scoop it up.
Influences: Southern cuisine is influenced by Dravidians, while Northern cooking is heavily influenced by Arabs and Persians.
Prominent Ingredients: In the south coconut, native fruits, curry leaves and coconut oil and mild are used frequently, while in the north a lot of yogurt, onion, tomatoes, and garlic are used.
While Chindi educates us on the differences, Dhiraj, begins prepping to teach us how to make Jeera Rice, Dal Palak, Beans Porival and Era Varuval (marsala fried prawns). The recipes are below:
JEERA RICE
Ingredients:
Ingredients:
1 Tbs 1/4 tsp 1 Tbs 1 tsp 1 C 5-6 | Ghee Jeera (cumin) fried onions — you can buy these at Indian food shops or make your own coriander, chopped Basmathi jasmine rice, cooked Salt, to taste Cashew nuts, dry toasted |
Instructions:
Heat ghee in a pan. Add jeera, browned onions, chopped coriander. Saute. Add cooked rice and salt while continuing to sauté till all the flavors are well mixed. Garnish with dry roasted cashew nuts before serving.
Heat ghee in a pan. Add jeera, browned onions, chopped coriander. Saute. Add cooked rice and salt while continuing to sauté till all the flavors are well mixed. Garnish with dry roasted cashew nuts before serving.
DAL PALAK
Ingredients:
Ingredients:
1 C 4 tsp 1 pinch 2 1/2 tsp 1/4 tsp pinch 1 med 1 pinch 1/4 tsp 1 pinch 1/4 tsp 1 med 1 Tbs 1 tsp | Boiled dhal (red lentils) — 1 C dahl : 3 C water to cook) Ghee or Coconut oil Jeera (cumin seeds) red chiles, whole — seeds and all garlic, chopped ginger, chopped green chiles, chopped (optional) onion Turmeric powder chile powder jeera powder Coriander powder tomato, chopped spinach, shredded (or other leafy veggie, or pumpkin or okra) Coriander, chopped for garnish |
Instructions:
Heat ghee or oil in a pan. Add jeera seeds, whole red chilies, chopped ginger, garlic, green chilies (optional). After a few seconds, add chopped onion and sauté until translucent. Add turmeric powder, chili powder, coriander powder, jeera powder and sauté for a few minutes. Add chopped tomatoes and shredded spinach and mix well. After a few seconds, add the boiled dhal and bring to boil. Serve hot, garnished with chopped coriander leaves.
Heat ghee or oil in a pan. Add jeera seeds, whole red chilies, chopped ginger, garlic, green chilies (optional). After a few seconds, add chopped onion and sauté until translucent. Add turmeric powder, chili powder, coriander powder, jeera powder and sauté for a few minutes. Add chopped tomatoes and shredded spinach and mix well. After a few seconds, add the boiled dhal and bring to boil. Serve hot, garnished with chopped coriander leaves.
BEANS PORIVAL
Ingredients:
Ingredients:
1 tsp 1/8 tsp 1/8 tsp 2 5-6 1 med 1 C 1-1/4 C | Gingelly oil (sesame oil — not roasted sesame oil) or Coconut Oil mustard seeds Urad dhal (whole) red chillies, whole curry leaves onion, chopped green beans (or beets/cabbage/pumpin) salt, to taste coconut, grated (fresh or unsweetened disciccated) |
Instructions:
Heat oil in a pan. Add mustard seeds. when they pop up, add the Urad dhal, then the red chilies, curry leaves, chopped onions and sauce until the onion is translucent. Add salt and chopped beans and stir fry until almost cooked. Add the grated coconut and stir fry for a few more minutes until the beans are cooked.
Heat oil in a pan. Add mustard seeds. when they pop up, add the Urad dhal, then the red chilies, curry leaves, chopped onions and sauce until the onion is translucent. Add salt and chopped beans and stir fry until almost cooked. Add the grated coconut and stir fry for a few more minutes until the beans are cooked.
ERA VARUVAL (Marsala fried prawns)
Ingredients:
Ingredients:
6 med 1/2 2 tsp 1 pinch 3 tsp 1 2 tsp 5 tsp | prawns — or you can use about 10 florets of cauliflower and add a few curry leaves to marinade salt, to taste lime, juiced ginger garlic paste turmeric powder chili powder egg rice flour Maida (refined flour) Oil to fry |
Instructions:
Marinate the prawns with salt, lime juice, ginger and garlic paste, chile powder, turmeric powder, egg and rice and Maida flours for at least 1 minutes to an hour. Deep fry and serve immediately.
After sampling each of the finished recipes — delicious — we headed to the L'Attitude for our Welcome Dinner. Each of the dishes we watched be prepared as well as others were available at the buffet.
Marinate the prawns with salt, lime juice, ginger and garlic paste, chile powder, turmeric powder, egg and rice and Maida flours for at least 1 minutes to an hour. Deep fry and serve immediately.
After sampling each of the finished recipes — delicious — we headed to the L'Attitude for our Welcome Dinner. Each of the dishes we watched be prepared as well as others were available at the buffet.