Today, we leave for Tanjore, also known as Thanjavur, one of the oldest cities in India and an important center of South Indian art and architecture. It is situated in the fertile Kaveri Delta, a region that is often referred to as the “rice bowl of Tamil Nadu”. For nearly a thousand years, Thanjavur dominated the political history of this region as the capital of three powerful dynasties — the Cholas (9th-13th centuries), the Nayakas (1535-1676) and the Marathas (1676-1855). |
Our drive is a long one, with ample time to photograph from the bus — a favorite pastime — read, and even nap. I am deeply engrossed in Sri Aurobindo’s books having finished The Mother and now fixated on The Future Evolution of Man.
We also have time for an unscheduled stop in Kumbakonam, which is considered one of the most sacred cities in Tamil Nadu. This ancient city, located on the southern bank of the Kaveri River, is where legend says Shiva’s arrow shattered the cosmic pot containing the divine nectar of creation. Today, the city is a regional center for textiles, jewelry, bronze casting and the cultivation of betel leaves. Unfortunately, there is no time to go in search of treasures made by local artisans . . . another trip!
Instead, our destination is the 17th century Adikumbheshvara Temple, which was built on the legendary spot where Shiva shattered the cosmic pot. Like other temples we’ve visited, photography is not allowed in the inner sanctums, but there was opportunity to photograph some aspects of the temple and its collection of vehicles (vahanas) used during festivals to carry temple deities.
Instead, our destination is the 17th century Adikumbheshvara Temple, which was built on the legendary spot where Shiva shattered the cosmic pot. Like other temples we’ve visited, photography is not allowed in the inner sanctums, but there was opportunity to photograph some aspects of the temple and its collection of vehicles (vahanas) used during festivals to carry temple deities.
The Mahamahan Tank is the sacred center of the city. Here, the Mahamaham Festival is held every 12 years when thousands of devotees enter the tank for their holy dip — when the water is said to be at its height of purifying power. The tank has steps at the four cardinal directions.
Continuing on our drive to Tanjore . . .
After settling into our lovely room at the Ideal Riverview Resort, Babe and I head off with Nandi in search of bronze Shiva statues. Tanjore is noted for its heath of artistic traditions including the creation of bronze sculptures using the "lost wax" technique. This process provides very fine detail as it requires a model of the image to be made in wax that is then coated with layers of clay to create a mould. The mould is then heated so the wax melts through a hole at the base. Next, hot molten alloy consisting of five metals is poured into the hollow mould. After the molten cools and hardens, the mould is broken and the image is finished and polished. Traditional artisans, known as sthapathis, create these sculptures according to a fixed set of rules and guidelines handed down in the Shilpa Shastra, an ancient text on art.
Our taxi arrives and takes us to Saga Department Stores on East Main Street where Babe and I are each attracted to representations of Shiva as Ardhanarishvara — a composite androgynous form of Shiva and his consort Parvati. This form is depicted as a fusion of half-male (Shiva; right side: masculine energy) and half-female (Parvati; left side:feminine energy), split down the center. According to Vedic literature, the female is the main source and power behind the creation of the Universe, as is considered the Maa or Mother, who invariably cares for our Universe. Conversely, the male is the primary ground of this Universe whose every vision is brought into form by the power of the female. |
This aspect of Shiva speaks to a healing dream I had in 2002 on a pilgrimage to Apu Ausangate in the Peruvian Andes that literally changed my life. It also illustrates the complementary opposite energies of the cosmos, and how Shakti, the Sacred Feminine (Pachamama) is inseparable from Shiva, the masculine principle of God (Wiracocha). I love the entwining nature of Truth between Hindu and Andean cosmologies. Smartly, Babe took her statue with her to carry home. I, on the other hand, purchased one too heavy to do so, so it must be shipped — fingers crossed!
Tonight, before dinner, we are invited to Nandi’s room for a celebration. But first, Nandi and I revisit the hotel gift shop to make an offer on the necklace seen earlier. The shopkeeper counters, but the price is still too high. After leaving, Nandi asks how much I am willing to spend, and within 15-minutes informs me that he has transacted the deal for me. I now have a gorgeous tribal necklace, which I am now wearing, and bronze sculpture to connect me to this mystical land.
Dinner is on the hotel’s outdoor patio overlooking the Kevari River. Lovely Indian music is performed while we eat. Afterwards, Babe and I get into a deep conversation with Andrew, I discover, is susceptible to pre-mature evaluation — having made judgments about me after apparently hearing from Nandi about my two purchases. He also tells me I need to be more passionate about my “work,” stop being so f*^#ing nice, claim my warrior, and become the bitch. Hm-m-m . . . interesting seeds to have planted . . . wonder if I'll get any sleep tonight!