Woke early this morning — before dawn. . . . so did Babe. Not able to go back to sleep, we decide to walk to the outdoor dining area along the river and watch the sunrise. So quite and peaceful. A few birds wade in the water looking for fish. As the sun begins to rise, a soft glow of yellow, peach and mauve emerges. Beautiful. Serene. Humbling in its beauty. Scenes like this are my temples and cathedrals. Silently, I welcome this new day and give thanks to the animistic forces of nature for their creation. Our walk finds us in a lovely garden, which we skirt as the irrigation system magically turns on at that moment. There are also some greenhouses in varying states of disrepair that house seedlings — all very alluringly romantic to photograph.
Today is our day to explore Tanjore (Thanjavur), home to most of the “Great Living Chola Temples”.
Our first stop is Brihadishvara Temple, which is known as The Golden Red Temple of Tanjore and considered the finest example of Chola architecture. This UNESCO World Heritage Site began construction in 1003 AD, by Rajaraja Chola I, and completed in 1010 AD. The temple is constructed entirely from granite that were transported from about 50 km away, and designed to represent a cosmic structure — the Mahameru — in homage to Shiva, as a symbol of unrivaled power and might of the Cholas.
We enter through the first gateway or gopuras, which was built during the Maratha rule of this region. A rather simple gate with a gopura on top, if was a critical line of defense to the temple’s fortification that was once surrounded by a moat.
We enter through the first gateway or gopuras, which was built during the Maratha rule of this region. A rather simple gate with a gopura on top, if was a critical line of defense to the temple’s fortification that was once surrounded by a moat.
A local guide provides some background information. There is also a large map of the complex and written information:
Thanjavur and the Cholas
“The Cholas, the mightiest rulers of South India, at one point of time held sway over major parts of South India and Sri Lanka. They also made their presence felt over North India and even South East Asia. The glory of the medieval Cholas was established by the early Chola rulers who ruled from the Uraiyur region in the beginning of the common era. The rise of Vijayalaya (850-871 CE) by defeating the Pallavas, Pandas and Muttaraiyars paved the way for the establishment of the Cholas of the Imperial line. Thanjavur, the rice bowl of Tamilnadu located on the southern bank of Vadavaru, was a strategic and geographic center in the south western corner of the Cauvery delta. It is know as Tanjai in the inscriptions of the Cholas of the 10th and early 11th centuries. It was a center of a collection of villages controlled by the Muttaraiyars and eventually by the Cholas in the middle of the 9th century CE. It was showered with importance by Chola Rajaraja I (985-1014 CE) with the construction of his monumental Bridhadisvara temple. The distinct character of this temple city was that it was deliberately created as a ceremonial and sacred bhakti center. With the temple at its centre, the city was designed with an ullalai (inner quadrangle around the temple) and a perambadi (outer circuit) for the preistly/administrative class and for the other professional groups, respectively. Thanjavur lost its importance subsequent to the death of Rajaraja I when the capital was shifted to Gangaikondacholapuram. It blossomed forth to its former glory under the Nayaka and Maratha rulers. The Brihadisvara tempe was fortified and the Subramanya shrine as also the colossal Nandi within the complex were added by the Nayakas. Several tanks were repaired and wastelands were reclaimed for agriculture. Raghunatha Nayaka constructed a theatre in his royal palace to state theatricals. In 1675 AD, Thanjavur was passed into the hands of the Marathas. Shahji, the Maratha ruler improved the balance and constructed a beautiful throne room in it. Manuscripts were collected and housed in the Sarawathi Majal Library. Ragagopalaswami temple added lustre to the city. A number of choultries and charms were constructed for the poor. Thanjabur was annexed by the British in 1855 AD when the last Maratha king Sivaji had no male heir to succeed him. The stronger and growing British power converted the small princely state of Thanjavur into a viable economic unit.” |
Next, we pass through the Keralantakan Tiruvasal, a classic example of Chola architecture, built with granite and featuring a gopura on top. It was built specifically to depict the victory of the Chola king over the Cheras, with stone carvings of various gods. After passing through the Keralantakan Tiruvasal, we leave our shoes in a designated area.
The stone walkway flanked by green grass is hot to my feet, but not uncomfortably so, as we continue towards the Rajarajan Tiruvasal. This gateway, also made of granite, has stone carvings depicting various Saivite myths on the ornate gopura, including the marriage of Shiva and Pravati.
After passing through the Rajaragan Gateway, I am confronted by the magnificence of Brihadishvara Temple — it is literally breathtaking. Gazing at the Red Temple, it becomes clear why my benefactor mountain in the Andes — Ausangate — began whispering to me in dreamtime before I left for India. The “change” I sensed that would “rattle my cage” in India and further amplified by Andrew’s comments last night is pounding in my chest. |
The image I see emerging from my unconscious mind is a sailboat . . . at first it moves towards the west (left: feminine), then tacks and heads due east (right: masculine), and then more gracefully tacks back and forth in a more direct manner. It is a map of my recent past – a period when a softer, nurturing part of me emerged during Rick’s illness, of my present that found me needing to assume all responsibility for the structural and functional aspects of the reality we co-create \ after his death, and perhaps a possible future that is more energetically efficient and focused towards unifying the feminine and masculine divisions within myself and my communities.
After making a plan to meet back in 45 minutes, Babe and I head to the Nandi Mandapam, which sits in a twelve-column raised shrine. This structure was built around the 16th-17th century by the Nayaks. The ceiling frescoes are exquisite and done during the Maratha rule. This Nandi (bull) itself was carved out of a single block of granite weighting 25-tons. This huge Nandi figure faces the entrance to the Temple’s inner sanctum. A priest tending the Nandi gives me a blessing.
Before heading to the inner sanctum, we explore the complex, which includes five smaller shrines: Chandikesvara (built by Nayaks), Amman (built by the Pandayas), Subrahmanya (built by the Nayaks), Ganesha (built by the Maratha) and Karuvur Devar (built by Rajaraja I and dedicated to his teacher and guide), the royal priest. Besides the Nadi Mandapa, there is also a Nataraja Mandapam (a simple stone structure built as a covered hall built my the Marathas).
The magnificent main temple has a 217-foot high pyramid-shaped vimana — the tallest in India — over the sanctum. Its gilded finial (sikhara) is carved from eight pieces of granite weighing 80-tons — and required a 6.5km ramp to raise it to the top. On the exterior are thousands of relief statues of gods and along the lower walls inscriptions of Chola, Panda, Vijayanagara, Nayak and Maratha rulers. From these, it is known that numerous endowments were made to the temple by the royal family and the king. There are even inscriptions engraved into the walls with receipts of donations and how the temple was maintained. Niches in the lower wall depict various deities like Ganesha, Vishnu, and many more.
Entering the Red Temple, the temperature drops significantly. Walking down the pillar-lined aisle, I silently marvel at the intricately carved patterns on them. How I wish I could photograph the interior, but it is not permitted. The inner sanctum is square-shape — its height was possible due to a two-tiered wall (bhumi) that could handle the added weight. Around the sanctum is a circumambulatory passage (pradakshinapatha) created by space between the interior and exterior walls.
According to my guidebook, the lower passageway is lined with paintings of the Chola period while the upper one has depictions of Lord Shiva performing 81 of the 108 karanas or dance postures of the Natya Sastra of Bharata, a Hindu text that describes the central role of theatre and dance in Indian culture. Because the temple is dedicated to Shiva, he is represented by a huge 12-foot linga that is named Rajarajesvaram-udaiyar after king Rajaraja Chola I.
After it is my turn to receive a blessing from the priest, I move aside to quietly say a prayer and breathe in the highly-charged energy of this temple. A ripple of energy moves up my body as a knowingness explodes into consciousness — a confirmation of being on the right path; unity of divisions — taqé (the Quechua word for unity:wholeness:Oneness through right-relationship).
Unfortunately, there is no time to visit the Interpretation Center or the North Cloister Mandapam where there are 108 Shiva lingas that were created during the reign of the Maratha ruler Sarabhoji, as well as some smaller shrines.
At our appointed meeting time and place, a group photograph is taken before we retrieve our shoes and board our bus. I crave silence.
According to my guidebook, the lower passageway is lined with paintings of the Chola period while the upper one has depictions of Lord Shiva performing 81 of the 108 karanas or dance postures of the Natya Sastra of Bharata, a Hindu text that describes the central role of theatre and dance in Indian culture. Because the temple is dedicated to Shiva, he is represented by a huge 12-foot linga that is named Rajarajesvaram-udaiyar after king Rajaraja Chola I.
After it is my turn to receive a blessing from the priest, I move aside to quietly say a prayer and breathe in the highly-charged energy of this temple. A ripple of energy moves up my body as a knowingness explodes into consciousness — a confirmation of being on the right path; unity of divisions — taqé (the Quechua word for unity:wholeness:Oneness through right-relationship).
Unfortunately, there is no time to visit the Interpretation Center or the North Cloister Mandapam where there are 108 Shiva lingas that were created during the reign of the Maratha ruler Sarabhoji, as well as some smaller shrines.
At our appointed meeting time and place, a group photograph is taken before we retrieve our shoes and board our bus. I crave silence.
Our next stop is the Thanjavur Art Gallery, located in the Thanjavur Palace to see their exquisite collection of ancient bronze sculptures of Hindu gods and goddesses (9th to 19th century AD).
Up a narrow staircase that leads to the Arsenal Tower, I discover a 92-foot skeleton of a Baleen Whale. The dead whale washed ashore on a beach in 1955 and the bones were brought to the palace soon after. I also discover Carly photographing others who’ve found our way up here beneath a domed ceiling with extraordinary soft filtered light — a gorgeous way to capture the peace and other-worldliness I feel within.
In an ideal world, it would be lovely to spend a day exploring the various areas within the Palace complex with the expertise of an art historian!
Tired and still craving silence, both Babe and I opt to remain aboard the bus while the rest of our group visit the shop where we bought bronze statues last evening. Then, thankfully, it is time for lunch. Nandi takes us to the Hotel Parisutham on Canal Road for lunch. I order a pineapple lassi, garlic naan, vegetable friend rice and garlic prawns — that feeds two others besides myself amply — for $16.96US. That includes tax and tip!
Tired and still craving silence, both Babe and I opt to remain aboard the bus while the rest of our group visit the shop where we bought bronze statues last evening. Then, thankfully, it is time for lunch. Nandi takes us to the Hotel Parisutham on Canal Road for lunch. I order a pineapple lassi, garlic naan, vegetable friend rice and garlic prawns — that feeds two others besides myself amply — for $16.96US. That includes tax and tip!
Back at our Ideal Riverview Resort . . . which I could easily see as my “Best Exotic Marigold Hotel” . . . it is time for a nap and slip between the veils of consciousness to connect more deeply with the energy felt at Brihadishvara Temple this morning.
When the alarm goes off, instead of getting ready to party at Nandi’s room again tonight before dinner, both Babe and I find we are still craving. Quickly throwing something on over our nightgowns, go make our apologies to Nandi. Back in our room, I meditate, write and sleep.
Missing out on a party is so unlike me, but I suspect not for long. . . What drew me to this trip was a knowingness that a pacha (cycle in time) in my life was drawing to an end and the start of a new one was at hand. In silence, it is becoming clearer what facets of that look like. Andrew was right last night about my needing to bring more passion to my work . . . its source is silence.
When the alarm goes off, instead of getting ready to party at Nandi’s room again tonight before dinner, both Babe and I find we are still craving. Quickly throwing something on over our nightgowns, go make our apologies to Nandi. Back in our room, I meditate, write and sleep.
Missing out on a party is so unlike me, but I suspect not for long. . . What drew me to this trip was a knowingness that a pacha (cycle in time) in my life was drawing to an end and the start of a new one was at hand. In silence, it is becoming clearer what facets of that look like. Andrew was right last night about my needing to bring more passion to my work . . . its source is silence.