"It was the best of times, it was the worst of times . . "
In a nutshell that describes today. It started off great. Sunny morning (finally) with bright blue skies! A fabulous breakfast of grilled trout stuffed with chermoula — from last nights culinary demo — potatoes and fresh cantaloupe. Yummy!
Our canoes all packed up, we were ready to paddle a short distance to hike up to the "hole" at the Hole-in-the-Wall. Helping to push the canoe I share with our guide Kevin off the muddy bank, I tweaked my hip and nearly fainted from the shooting pain. Nearly impossible to get into the canoe, paddling for me was not happening. Thankfully, we quickly reached the take-out for Hole-in-the-Wall and while others hiked, I laid quietly on the ground breathing deeply and praying that half a percocet Doc gave me would kick-in.
An hour or so later, barely able to stand, I ungracefully stuff myself back into the canoe. As we continue downstream through what is described as "one of the most scenic stretches within the National Monument," I alternated between pushing up with my arms on the gunwales to relieve pressure on my hip and photographing the gorgeous scenery — thank you, Doc! This section of extraordinary-shaped rock formations and towering pillars — with names such as Steamboat Rock, Dark Butte, Seven Sister, and the Archangel — deserved to be more fully appreciated by me, and I became thoroughly envious when Kevin mentioned that he has explored some of the canyons in an area known as the "Valley of the Walls!"
Our lunch stop at Dark Butte Primitive Boat Camp is tucked in a grove of cottonwood trees. High on the bluff behind us is a sandstone formation that is described as resembling a twin-stacked steamboat — to Doc, Birdie and me, it looks more like a snail working its way up the hill. Polishing off the remainder of Melville wine from last night along with chips and some slices of turkey breast, I feel no pain . . . as long as I remain standing! One by one after lunch we take to the river to cool off and wash our hair with biodegradable soap. It is a kick to see our "kid-natures" emerge as we splash each other in the water!
Refreshed, I am ready to take up my paddle. Just beyond our lunch stop is Dark Butte with the "Archangel" formation in the foreground. About 2-1/2 miles later, we pull up to a narrow flat bench covered by sagebrush where, on May 30, 1805, the Lewis & Clark expedition camped after covering only 5-1/2 miles on a rainy and cold day. Nancy proves to be the pre-eminent sleuth of our group as we search for the brass site marker that commemorates the expedition's bi-centennial stay here.
A couple of miles down river and around a bend we encounter the shallow waters of Pablo Rapids — a riffle, really — that caused steamboats to become grounded. Just passed the rapids is Wolf Island, named Captain Abe Wolf whose steamboat the Marion was grounded in 1866. After the crew mutinied and put Captain Wolf adrift in a small boat, they drank all the whiskey before being brought to justice. It is only another 3.5 miles to our last camp at Slaughter River. This is one of the few campsites the Lewis and Clark expedition used twice — first on May 29, 1805 on their upriver trip, and then Captain Lewis' party on their return on July 29, 1806.
A couple of miles down river and around a bend we encounter the shallow waters of Pablo Rapids — a riffle, really — that caused steamboats to become grounded. Just passed the rapids is Wolf Island, named Captain Abe Wolf whose steamboat the Marion was grounded in 1866. After the crew mutinied and put Captain Wolf adrift in a small boat, they drank all the whiskey before being brought to justice. It is only another 3.5 miles to our last camp at Slaughter River. This is one of the few campsites the Lewis and Clark expedition used twice — first on May 29, 1805 on their upriver trip, and then Captain Lewis' party on their return on July 29, 1806.
Stay tuned to hear about our tonight's culinary demonstration and fabulous Greek inspired dinner . . .