It rained all night . . . and is still raining when the alarm sounds at 6 AM. Since shipping gear for this adventure to Montana the weather forecast has changed from hot and sunny in the 90s to a day or so of rain with clearing to the low 80s. Being Montana, I've shipped clothing for most every possible forecast . . . with secret hopes that it will be sunny in the low 80s!
The rain is mostly a light drizzle as we load gear into the van that will take us to our launch point. On the way, we stop at Decision Point — an overlook of the confluence of the Marias and Missouri rivers — where Lewis and Clark camped for 10-days as they made reconnaissances up both to determine which in fact was the Missouri River that would lead to the Northwest Passage. |
The expedition's intel from the Mandan Indians the previous winter did not mention this fork and a wrong decision could strand them unprepared for a potentially deadly winter. Lewis led a small party up the "right fork" (Marias) and Clark did the same along the "left fork" (Missouri) to just short of the falls. Whereas the Marias was swollen and muddy from spring runoff, the Missouri was clear with a rocky bottom characteristic of newly emerging mountain rivers. Confidently the expedition chose correctly and proceeded up the Missouri River. They named the "right fork" after Lewis' cousin Maria Wood. We also learn about the town of Ophir, which was to be located here and rival Fort Benton, but this plan was abandoned after the construction crew was attacked and killed by warriors seeking revenge for the murder of several tribal members in and around Fort Benton.
Next, we drive to Coal Banks Landing, where we begin our paddling adventure through the White Cliffs section of the Upper Missouri River region. This is an area much described by Captain Merriweather Lewis in his journals and the most popular section to float. It's name comes from the dark layer of lignite coal found in the hillsides, and it was the landing used by steamboats during the Indian Wars (1876-77) and the construction of Fort Assiniboine on the northwest side of the Bears Paw Mountains.
Though the stretch of river we will be paddling can be done in two-nights and three-days, we will explore it with an extra day. And, since there is no potable water available, our supply pontoon boat carries plenty along with massive coolers that hold food/wine/ beer, tents, tables and kitchen equipment. Each of our canoes carry our personal gear and folding camp chairs. I am teamed up with Kevin O'Briant, who is our river guide/naturalist/historian — a perfect pairing for an inquisitive mind like mine!
While the paddling is easy due to a nice current and gentle tailwind, I am nonetheless delighted to discover that my water aerobic classes have helped develop my upper body strength! Several miles downstream, it begins raining again in earnest and I am thankful for having started out in full rain gear — jacket and pants — especially when the temperature starts dipping.
Next, we drive to Coal Banks Landing, where we begin our paddling adventure through the White Cliffs section of the Upper Missouri River region. This is an area much described by Captain Merriweather Lewis in his journals and the most popular section to float. It's name comes from the dark layer of lignite coal found in the hillsides, and it was the landing used by steamboats during the Indian Wars (1876-77) and the construction of Fort Assiniboine on the northwest side of the Bears Paw Mountains.
Though the stretch of river we will be paddling can be done in two-nights and three-days, we will explore it with an extra day. And, since there is no potable water available, our supply pontoon boat carries plenty along with massive coolers that hold food/wine/ beer, tents, tables and kitchen equipment. Each of our canoes carry our personal gear and folding camp chairs. I am teamed up with Kevin O'Briant, who is our river guide/naturalist/historian — a perfect pairing for an inquisitive mind like mine!
While the paddling is easy due to a nice current and gentle tailwind, I am nonetheless delighted to discover that my water aerobic classes have helped develop my upper body strength! Several miles downstream, it begins raining again in earnest and I am thankful for having started out in full rain gear — jacket and pants — especially when the temperature starts dipping.
About 5-1/2 miles downstream we stop for lunch at Little Sandy boat camp, a developed site accessible only by water that is part of a 385-acre recreation easement held by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM). After a delicious lunch of quinoa chicken salad, we hike up to the bluff above that offers views of the river corridor and surrounding prairie landscape.
Back in our canoes, the rain continues as we pass by unusual rock formations that I am so disappointed not to be able to photograph. Kevin tells me that the Upper Missouri contains a diversity of rock types. The erosion of these rocks account for the high sediment load carried by "The Big Muddy." Dark igneous "tower" formations caused by erosion over the ages rise unexpectedly in the landscape. After about 5 miles, the "wild" classification of the Upper Missouri River begins and the dramatic character of the White Cliffs, which has inspired explorers and artists since Lewis and Clark, reveals itself. We pass by several islands in the river. Prior to the construction of major dams on the Missouri River, spring floods would reform river channels and create new islands and gravel bars as well create cottonwood seedbeds. Presently, the lack of spring flooding has caused concern for the condition of riparian vegetation that provides habitat for wildlife and regulates ecological functions including the regeneration of cottonwood stands, which are now relatively rare.
Unfortunately, the rain is now teeming, so Kevin makes an "executive decision" to keep paddling to our camping site rather than stopping at Burnt Butte to explore on foot. Arriving at Eagle Creek Boat Camp several hours early, our camp is not yet set-up nor are our tents. A pop-up dining tent is quickly put up so we can huddle under it to get out of the rain. Cold, wet, we await hot water for tea as priority shifts to putting up our tents and changing out of rain gear and wet clothes. One of the advantages I quickly realize in traveling solo is a tent all to myself. Whereas mine is roomy for one — allowing room to hang up wet clothing and unpack my dry bag in search of warm, dry clothes — others have two cots that take up most of the floorspace.
Unfortunately, the rain is now teeming, so Kevin makes an "executive decision" to keep paddling to our camping site rather than stopping at Burnt Butte to explore on foot. Arriving at Eagle Creek Boat Camp several hours early, our camp is not yet set-up nor are our tents. A pop-up dining tent is quickly put up so we can huddle under it to get out of the rain. Cold, wet, we await hot water for tea as priority shifts to putting up our tents and changing out of rain gear and wet clothes. One of the advantages I quickly realize in traveling solo is a tent all to myself. Whereas mine is roomy for one — allowing room to hang up wet clothing and unpack my dry bag in search of warm, dry clothes — others have two cots that take up most of the floorspace.
One advantage of weather adversity is that it quickly binds people together — helping each other carry gear, reconfigure tent overhangs, sharing dry vestibule space at the vault toilet building, etc. Between downpours, we check out each other's tents and invite others to share wine and cheese and salami in our tents. Situated at the other end of our tent community, Birdie and Doc come over to my spacious digs with chairs in tow.
Warm and refreshed by sustenance, as the rain tapers, Kevin suggests a hike to see some native American pictographs nearby before dinner as our cooking demonstration has been cancelled for today. It feels good to stretch my legs and get to know everyone better . . . even if I can't still remember everyone else's name!
Ray Risho's first dinner exceeds my expectations — rain notwithstanding . . . Tonight's feast takes its inspiration from North Africa as we gather our chairs around a community table:
First Course — Meze
Chick Pea Tagine • Roasted Olive & Orange Salad •
Okra in Spicy Tomato Sauce • Aged Sheep's Cheese • Pita bread
Soup Course
Moroccan Chilled Almond Soup with Roasted Garlic & Green Melon
Main Course
Chermoula of Mahi Loin • Couscous with Pine Nuts & Currants •
Orange Blossom Glazed Petite Carrots
Dessert
Pistachio-Filed Phyllo Roles 'Briates' • Caramelized Peaches
Wines
Chateau La Roque, Coteaux du Languedoc Blanc (Roussilion, France)
Domaine de Fontsainte, Reserve la Demoiselle (Corbiéres, France)
Chick Pea Tagine • Roasted Olive & Orange Salad •
Okra in Spicy Tomato Sauce • Aged Sheep's Cheese • Pita bread
Soup Course
Moroccan Chilled Almond Soup with Roasted Garlic & Green Melon
Main Course
Chermoula of Mahi Loin • Couscous with Pine Nuts & Currants •
Orange Blossom Glazed Petite Carrots
Dessert
Pistachio-Filed Phyllo Roles 'Briates' • Caramelized Peaches
Wines
Chateau La Roque, Coteaux du Languedoc Blanc (Roussilion, France)
Domaine de Fontsainte, Reserve la Demoiselle (Corbiéres, France)