Another sleepless night … two in a row. Last night, I tried turning off the air conditioner and opening the sliding glass door for air. At first I was able to sleep without the sound of the air conditioner fan. Then, around 1AM, the drumming and singing / chanting kicked in and that was the end of sleep. Just lied in bed observing my breath, meditating, and finally just getting up.
I need to say a few words about Restaurant 135, which is where breakfast is served. There are several stations set up with pastries, breads and condiments, fruit, antipasto, various kinds of fresh yogurt, oatmeal, juices, meats, etc., along with stations making omelets and crepes — after the first day, my will power to not have a sweet roll or croissant flew out the door! |
After breakfast, we leave for Saqqara. Located about 30 km south of Cairo, the 45 minute drive that takes us through different parts of the city as well as small villages.
Saqqara, is one of the richest archaeological sites in Egypt. It developed as a vast, ancient burial ground that served as the necropolis for Old Kingdom capital of Memphis. Although the earliest burials of nobles at Saqqara can be traced back to the 1st Dynasty, it was not until the 2nd Dynasty that the kings were buried here.
Eventually, however, Saqqara was abandoned as the burial ground of royalty for the Giza Plateau and later the Valley of the Kings in Thebes (Luxor). Despite that Saqqara remained an important complex for minor burials and cult ceremonies for more than 3,000 years — well into Ptolemaic and Roman times. |
Other than the world's oldest standing step pyramid — Step Pyramid of Djoser — Saqqara lay buried under sand for centuries until 1851 when Auguste Mariette discovered the Serapeum. Since then regular finds continue to be made here.
While Freddy talks, my eyes begin to wander over the landscape. Unlike the Giza Plateau that is adjacent to the dense population of Cairo, Saqqara is much more of what I imagined the landscape around pyramids to be — dry, barren sand for as far as the eye can see. A place mostly hidden from the eye where stories and wisdom are held safe.
Pyramid of Unas
We began our exploration at the Pyramid of Unas, built by the ninth and last sovereign of the 5th dynasty. It is located at the southwest corner of the funerary complex of Djoser. Smaller than the other pyramids we’ve seen thus far — the sides are less than 120 feet — it is also barely recognizable. It looks like a mound of rubble, with only part of the original encasing limestone blocks. It was “discovered” by Gaston Maspero in 1881. |
We learn that many pyramids and tombs are closed to the public periodically having to do with moisture levels and deterioration. Thankfully, this one is currently open.
Excited to once again go underground into a pyramid, we again access this one by walking backwards and stooping down due to the low “ceiling” of the passageway. It is marginally lit as we descend for hundreds of feet. It is helpful that the person in front of us (actually behind) lets the next person know when the “ceiling” level drops and we need to stoop down even more. Once inside, we discover three “rooms.” at the bottom of the passage way where three granite portcullises once blocked the entrance to prevent robbers from entering the king’s tomb: |
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What makes this pyramid especially interesting are the hieroglyph-decorated walls within. Each of the rooms were built with fine limestone, except fo the walls immediately surrounding the sarcophagus where alabaster was used. On that wall an elaborate pattern design representing a reed mat and wood-frame ensure have been carved and painted. The ceiling of the burial chamber was painted with golden stars on a dark blue sky.
The symbology is amazing — King Unas was buried metaphorically in fertile earth (black basalt sarcophagus), in a room that probably resembled his living quarters, under a dark starry sky. The energy is strong here, and I wish it were possible to be totally alone in this space.
Even more fascinating to me, is the decoration on the other walls of the burial chamber, the ante-chamber and horizontal passageway — they are covered with vertical columns of meticulously carved hieroglyphs inlaid with dark blue pigment. Running my fingers over the hieroglyphs the nerve endings come alive as if they are understanding that which I am fascinated by, but cannot consciously fathom. Later I learn these texts contain the earliest known example of the Pyramid Texts, which are considered the oldest collection of religious texts known in existence — a collection of spells and formulas meant to protect the deceased in the afterlife. Apparently, the Pyramid of Unas contains 283 of the more than 700 known spells attributed to the Pyramid Texts, which later formed the basis of the New Kingdom Book of the Dead.
Maybe ancient Egyptian hieroglyphs will become my second language!
Even more fascinating to me, is the decoration on the other walls of the burial chamber, the ante-chamber and horizontal passageway — they are covered with vertical columns of meticulously carved hieroglyphs inlaid with dark blue pigment. Running my fingers over the hieroglyphs the nerve endings come alive as if they are understanding that which I am fascinated by, but cannot consciously fathom. Later I learn these texts contain the earliest known example of the Pyramid Texts, which are considered the oldest collection of religious texts known in existence — a collection of spells and formulas meant to protect the deceased in the afterlife. Apparently, the Pyramid of Unas contains 283 of the more than 700 known spells attributed to the Pyramid Texts, which later formed the basis of the New Kingdom Book of the Dead.
Maybe ancient Egyptian hieroglyphs will become my second language!
Outside once again, the walls of the causeway that once connected this pyramid to the valley temple are visible. Though we didn't have time to explore this area, along the walls of the causeway are relief decoration (circa 2325BC) that depict " massive barges transporting columns and door-jambs of granite from the First Cataract all the way north to Saqqara to adorn King Unas' pyramid complex.
The Serapeum
Next, we board our bus for a short drive to the Serapeum, the underground necropolis for sacred Apis bulls. Before I delve into this incredible site, first a bit of history … The Serapeum was “discovered” by Auguste Mariette, who we learned yesterday was also responsible for excavating the Mortuary Temple of Khafre on the Giza Plateau. |
Mariette was an assistant at the Louvre and subsequently appointed as leader of a mission sent to Egypt to acquire ancient papyri and Coptic manuscripts. A man recognized for his great intuition and sharp observational skills, while excavating in the area of Saqqara, in 1851, he made his discovery of the Serapeum. Due to the importance of this find, Marietta was appointed Director of Egyptian Antiquities and Inspector of Archeological Excavations. His achievements led to the creation of the Museum of Cairo, where he is buried in its garden. |
Back to our own exploration . . . we entered the Serapeum down a massively wide and tall passageway — compared to the narrow and short passageways into pyramids.
The Serapeum is a long, rock-cut underground gallery with side chambers, each containing an enormous granite sarcophagus weighing between 60 and 70 tons that held the mummified bodies of the Apis bulls. Each successive bull was considered to be an incarnation of Ptah, god of Memphis. As deities, the Apis bull was looked after by priests and each day let loose in the courtyard attached to his temple. The priests would use his movements as a means for divining the future. Upon death — natural or by drowning in a fountain if he reached 25 years old — the Apis was mummified and buried with great ceremony in the manner of a pharaoh. |
The Serapeum was begun by Amenhotep III (1390-1352BC) and remained in use through the Ptolemaic dynasty that ended in 30BC.
Mariette's excavations of the Serapeum revealed more than 60 animals buried here. Originally, each animal was buried in a separate tomb. It is unfathomable how these corridors were carved out of the earth and how ancient Egyptians moved the massive sarcophagi into place.
Since the corridors and side chambers were constructed, some have been reinforced, in modern time, with steel girders and reinforced concrete.
Mariette's excavations of the Serapeum revealed more than 60 animals buried here. Originally, each animal was buried in a separate tomb. It is unfathomable how these corridors were carved out of the earth and how ancient Egyptians moved the massive sarcophagi into place.
Since the corridors and side chambers were constructed, some have been reinforced, in modern time, with steel girders and reinforced concrete.
Exploring the other main corridor, we came across an unfinished sarcophagus that almost completely blocked access past ... but no worries as we hadn't had lunch, I slipped past ...
The center of the Cult of the Sacred Apis Bulls was in Memphis. "Apis" was the son of Hathor, the sky goddess of fertility and primordial power and daughter of the sun king Ra. Hathor also served as an intermediary between humans and other powerful deities such as Ptah, later Osiris and then Atum.
Because the Apis bulls was considered a manifestation of the king and symbol of his strength and fertility, it had to have certain features that were known only to the priests. On the death of the Apis bull, the priests sought out another who met special characteristics. Herodotus listed some 29 features that included a white triangle on the forehead, a mark like an eagle on the neck, another mark in the shape of a crescent moon on its flank, and the manner of conception by a ray from heaven.
The Apis bull was depicted in hieroglyphs with a solar disc between its horns.
This is one of the most extraordinary places I've visited ... and I can't articulate how exactly the experience is impacting me ... yet ... other than to say it is very primal.
Because the Apis bulls was considered a manifestation of the king and symbol of his strength and fertility, it had to have certain features that were known only to the priests. On the death of the Apis bull, the priests sought out another who met special characteristics. Herodotus listed some 29 features that included a white triangle on the forehead, a mark like an eagle on the neck, another mark in the shape of a crescent moon on its flank, and the manner of conception by a ray from heaven.
The Apis bull was depicted in hieroglyphs with a solar disc between its horns.
This is one of the most extraordinary places I've visited ... and I can't articulate how exactly the experience is impacting me ... yet ... other than to say it is very primal.
I began feeling peckish about the time Vivian called us back towards the bus. Even though I know we’ll be returning soon, my heart isn’t ready to leave her yet.
Lunch is a treat — it’s at the Saqqara Palm Club that seems to be both a wonderful buffet lunch spot as well as a getaway destination with swim-up bar, lots of lounge chairs and wonderful gardens. Wonder what their rooms are like? Most likely “pretty funky” compared to the Mena House. Gypsy and I sat with Vivian for lunch and had lovely conversation that revealed a wealth of information about life in Egypt presently, and what it’s like to be a professional woman in this country. After a leisurely lunch, we head back to Saqqara to learn about and explore the the Step Pyramid complex! |
Step Pyramid of Djoser
The Step Pyramid of Djoser is considered to be the centerpiece at Saqqara — in fact, the prototype for all other Egyptian pyramids. It is the oldest complete hewn-stone building complex known in history and is recognized as having marked a huge leap forward in the history of world architecture — until then, Egyptian royal tombs and been underground rooms covered with low, flat mud-brick (mastabas). |
It was designed and built for 3rd dynasty King Djoser (27th century BC) by the architect Imhotep, who held titles including: Advisor to the King of Lower Egypt; “the First After the King” of Upper Egypt; Administrator of the Great Palace; and Hereditary Prince and Grand Visionary of Heliopolis — a title related to sun worship and astronomy. Admired during his lifetime, Imhotep came to be celebrated as a god. According to some legends, he was the son of the great god Ptah. His name means “he who comes in peace.”
Imhotep's genius and innovation included the use stone rather than mud brick and to build six mastabas, one on top of the other, with each layer smaller than the one beneath it. The large enclosure surrounding the Step Pyramid was another major innovation. It is enclosed by a cut limestone wall. Now only a portion of the ancient wall has been restored, which provides entrance to the enclosure. |
As previously mentioned, because the Saqqara necropolis was hidden beneath the sands for much of the past two millennia – even the large mortuary complex surrounding the Step Pyramid was not uncovered until 1924.
Before passing through the restored ancient wall entrance, Freddy tells us to pay attention to the energy we feel as we pass by each set of colonnades. Walking slowly and single-file through the colonnade-lined corridor of 40 pillars ribbed to imitate palm stems, we reach the Great South Court. Between the columns are small chambers. The energy I picked up alternated between masculine and feminine, which I felt more strongly on one right and left sides of my body, respectively. |
Once inside the courtyard, I learn that the Step Pyramid was not built all at once, but in stages. First, a square mastaba about 200-feet square by 28 feet high was built, then an addition of about 10 feet was added on each side. This was followed by another addition of 30 feet added to the east side only. By doing this, the building was linked to 11 shafts belonging to the family of Djoser. Still later, it was enlarged by the addition of four mastabas built atop one another before reaching its current form of six mastabas measuring just under 200 feet in height. Metaphorically, the pyramid is designed as a giant stairway, which King Djoser would climb after being resurrected to join the sun god Ra in the sky. |
The Burial Chamber lies at the bottom of a shaft in the center of the pyramid at a depth about 92 feet. Several more levels exist underneath the pyramid at depths up to 130 feet where over 30,000 jars made of solid stone were found — some made of granite, alabaster and schist. Also found were unique blue and green ceramic tiles.
Freddy tells us to silently walk around, feeling the energy in various locations, meditating, and discovering for ourselves messages from the gods. At first I walk towards Heb-sed Court, which runs parallel to the Great South Court. Flanking the sides of this courtyard are the remains of chapels and niches that I explored to photograph as well as to sense their energy. It was towards the northern buildings where I found a chapel with very powerful energy that exploded my heart center wide open. It is outside of this tomb that I meditate. Quieting my mind I see an image of a woman approaching me holding something in her hand extended out to me. It has the shape of a human heart. When I return to ordinary consciousness and look down on the sand at my feet, there single human heart-shaped rock (kuya) that I will add to my mesa and spend months (if not years) learning its medicine and the reason it found its way to me. |
Nearby beneath a short wall of limestone blocks, three pairs of carved granite in the shape of feet stick out. Around to the backside of the pyramid is a tiny square structure (chapel?). Peering in a side “window” I see the sculpted visage of a pharaoh. Through a small hole of stone, he reveals himself more. Is this King Djoser?
Close by a steep staircase leads down to a locked door — an entrance to the pyramid. There is another one on the opposite (front side) of the pyramid as well.
Close by a steep staircase leads down to a locked door — an entrance to the pyramid. There is another one on the opposite (front side) of the pyramid as well.
Having walked 360-degrees around the Step Pyramid, I made my way towards the center of the Great Courtyard where a square stone troughs hold shards of alabaster and a few last photographs.
It has been a rich and fulfilling day and I leave Saqqara knowing we touched on a tiny portion of its mysteries and wealth of teachings still to be learned.
It has been a rich and fulfilling day and I leave Saqqara knowing we touched on a tiny portion of its mysteries and wealth of teachings still to be learned.
On the drive back to Mena House, I pondered my experiences and reviewed some notes on other things I’d learned today … Dome Palm tea and Hibiscus tea are good for high blood pressure. Most temples were aligned to magnetic north. However, when they are aligned east / west, they are generally burial sites. The Nile River is analogous to the Urubamba River in Peru — both are aligned with the celestial Milky Way. The sarcophagi in The Serapheum were quarried 400 miles from Saqqara. There are 114 known pyramids throughout Egypt.
I'm certainly in the data collecting mode ... it will take time for meaning to grow. Working with my photographs once back home and writing about this adventure will help grow the collected seeds from my experiences today.
I'm certainly in the data collecting mode ... it will take time for meaning to grow. Working with my photographs once back home and writing about this adventure will help grow the collected seeds from my experiences today.
Though it's been a long day … after returning to our room back at Mena House to freshen up, Gypsy and I headed to the Moghul Room for a delicious Indian dinner. Only 4 other guests were at the restaurant when we arrived — guess most guests here prefer buffet-style dining. Afterwards, we explored a little gift shop where I purchased books about the various sacred sites we will be visiting and then headed back to our room for hot tea, reading and sleep.