Another sleep deprived night. Damn the music and chanting … though I am getting plenty of meditation time in!
Today’s adventure involves visiting two pyramids that we will be able to explore inside. One in particular was described yesterday, as we drove back to the Mena House, as somewhat claustrophobic in nature requiring us to get on our hands and knees in pitch blackness to squeeze through narrow passageways. As a result, I’ve decided to wear light weight hiking pants. Gypsy isn’t sure whether she will venture into that pyramid.
At breakfast, I ask a fellow traveler if he would be willing to “partner” with me inside that pyramid if Gypsy doesn’t venture in. Claustrophobia isn’t something I’ve ever experienced, but the sense of being in a tight space in complete darkness without the possibility of holding onto someone else’s pants cuff (or their holding on to mine) may be challenging … Thankfully, he agreed. Whew!
The drive to Dahshur seems to be in the same direction as Saqqara. At least some of the roadside scenes seem to be familiar. Like Saqqara, it is about 20 miles from Giza and a 45 minute drive.
Today’s adventure involves visiting two pyramids that we will be able to explore inside. One in particular was described yesterday, as we drove back to the Mena House, as somewhat claustrophobic in nature requiring us to get on our hands and knees in pitch blackness to squeeze through narrow passageways. As a result, I’ve decided to wear light weight hiking pants. Gypsy isn’t sure whether she will venture into that pyramid.
At breakfast, I ask a fellow traveler if he would be willing to “partner” with me inside that pyramid if Gypsy doesn’t venture in. Claustrophobia isn’t something I’ve ever experienced, but the sense of being in a tight space in complete darkness without the possibility of holding onto someone else’s pants cuff (or their holding on to mine) may be challenging … Thankfully, he agreed. Whew!
The drive to Dahshur seems to be in the same direction as Saqqara. At least some of the roadside scenes seem to be familiar. Like Saqqara, it is about 20 miles from Giza and a 45 minute drive.
Some history … No one knows why King Sneferu, founder of the 4th dynasty and father of Khufu aka Cheops (Great Pyramid) moved the royal necropolis from Saqqara to Dahshur. But, in Dahshur he built the two pyramids we visited today. One is known as the “Bent Pyramid” and the other as the “Red Pyramid”. Interestingly, Sneferu had previously built a pyramid at Meidum, which is known as the “false pyramid” — making him the only king to possess three pyramids!
"Geometry was born in Egypt." — Greek historian Herodotus
Sneferu’s is credited with having created the first rhomboid base on a pyramid making it clear that the ancient Egyptians possessed knowledge of the right angle. It is speculated that this knowledge was derived from the technique surveyors used to measure the size of agricultural fields — twelve equally-distanced knots were made in a rope; pallets were driven into the ground and the rope was pulled to form a triangle with sides of three, four and five times the distance between the next two knots. The angle formed opposite the longest side as the right angle.
Bent Pyramid
Before disembarking the bus, we learn that this will be the more challenging pyramid as previously described. Gypsy and a couple of others decide instread to explore the exterior of the pyramid while the rest of us go inside.
Archaeologists believe the Bent Pyramid was a transitional style between the step — like Djoser's Step Pyramid — and smooth-sided styles of pyramid construction. One theory for its shape is that due to the steepness of the original angle (54-degrees) it may have shown signs of instability during construction that forced the builders to adopt a shallower angle (43-degrees) to avert total collapse. This theory is suggests that Sneferu’s first pyramid attempt at Meidum may have collapsed while the Bent Pyramid was under construction. |
Whatever the reason, upon completion of the Bent pyramid, Sneferu immediately built the Red Pyramid, which was totally constructed at a 43-degree angle. Another unique feature of the Bent Pyramid is that its original polished limestone outer casing remains largely intact. |
There are two entrances into the pyramid — one on the north and the other on the west side. We entered through the north entrance that required us to walk up a substantial exterior wooden staircase.
As we approach the staircase, my “partner” shared his fear of heights. Oh, my … Not a huge fan of heights myself, but clearly not as rattled, I lead the way, encouraging him up the stairs to the landing!
Reaching the top of the staircase, we left our extraneous things — water bottles, hats, sunglasses — in the care of Vivian. Then our adventure began … The access into this pyramid is steep and straight down. Thankfully, at least this portion of the way is lit. As we’ve come to expect, entry is walking backwards and stooped over. My partner led the way and was great about telling me when to stoop down even more when the unevenness of the passageway height dictated. The descent seemed to go on forever …
… so long in fact, some of us start laughing as a way to release pent up energy!
The passageway opens into a chamber with a high corbelled roof. In the center of the space where once stood a rickety ladder to ascend into the pyramid has, thankfully, been replaced by a wooden staircase that goes up at least 50 feet or more. My partner becomes anxious all over again. Leading the way, even though heights aren’t exactly my thing, we begin the climb. My thoughts revolve around there not being any sign about weight limits. Reaching the top it is daunting to look down; my partner doesn’t. So far, so good, I think ... |
Now we are confronted with my supposed nemesis … a very rough stone, passageway that requires either getting on hands and knees or squatting very low and shuffling your way upwards. This time my partner takes the lead in a low squat shuffle. I follow suit. Thankfully, in addition to the wooden staircase improvement, lights have been installed in this passageway! [Big sigh of relief].
This passageway joins up with the one from the western entrance into the pyramid. Almost immediately we are met with another wooden staircase — this one much narrower and steeper. My poor partner. He takes a breather letting a couple of people pass between us before heading up. By this time, you might be wondering where we are going and what will be the upshot of this exploration … short answer is another relatively smallish landing inside a very rough stone corbelled roof in the center of the pyramid with hundreds of bats clinging to its surfaces and flying around as our body temperatures shift the air in the space. |
Working my way back down so others can experience this space, I found myself going down the narrow, rough stone passageway with bent knees, butt almost on the ground, and feet used to both "slide" and “brake” — all I thought about is how sore my quads and knees would be tomorrow! Following an off-shoot passageway the ultimately dead-ended looking down at a collapsed portion of an inner chamber, one can see the presence of large timber beams that were used as supports in the construction of the pyramid. |
At the bottom of the second staircase I met up with some others who’ve already made their way down and we begin to tone “Om”. The acoustics in the corbelled roof space are amazing, and two women in our group are professional singers.
Once outside the pyramid, and standing on top of the staircase leading back to the desert below, the views are incredible. It is easy to see and appreciate polished limestone outer casing that would have been on the Giza Plateau pyramids as well. Breathtakingly beautiful!
With my partner in tow, we make our way down the staircase. While this was not a challenging adventure for me, it certainly tested him. Hopefully, though he doesn’t see it now, it will be life changing — pushing through resistance and fear always is.
Back on the ground, I reunite with Gypsy, who has made her own discoveries and is eager to share. With the group, we make our way to the east side of Bent Pyramid where there are remains of the Pyramid Temple. While the group gathers to hear what Freddy has to share, Gypsy leads me to two stele. A man, she tells me, had told her to lie down with her head just so and arms outstretched to feel the energy. First she does it, then I do. It is very, very relaxing — between the warm sand, perfect alignment of my head / neck, and outstretched arms receiving energy, I could happily spend an hour here.
After several minutes rejoining the group, I am compelled to experience what Gypsy found on her exploration, so began making my way to the south side of the Bent Pyramid where she previously discovered and explored within a small satellite pyramid that some Egyptologists believe may have been built to house the king’s ka of animating force of life; soul.
Red Pyramid
As previously mentioned, King Sneferu built the Red Pyramid shortly after the Bent Pyramid was completed. It is the largest of the Dahshur pyramids, and named for the rusty reddish hue of its red limestone stones — although the reddish color was not present when we visited in late morning. The Red Pyramid is also Egypt’s third largest pyramid (344 feet high), after those of Khufu (Great Pyramid) and Khafre at Giza. |
Not surprisingly, the Red Pyramid was not always red; it once was encased with the white Tura limestone that is visible on the Bent Pyramid and top of Khafre Pyramid. Apparently much of the Tura limestone was taken during the Middle Ages for buildings in Cairo.
Instead of a wooden stairway to access the entrance, steps have been cut into or built over stones from the pyramid. The passageway is typical (3 feet high and about 4 feet wide) requiring the same backwards, stooped walk to which we’re now accustomed. Again, we leave our extraneous things (water bottles, hats, and sunglasses) with Vivian before venturing (backwards) into the pyramid.
At the bottom of the incline a short horizontal passageway leads into a chamber with a 40 foot high corbel vault ceiling. At the far corner of the chamber there is a very narrow and low passageway created by overhanging massive stone blocks that leads into a second chamber. This chamber is similar to the first, and is situated directly beneath the apex of the pyramid. These two chambers have their long axis aligned north-south.
Instead of a wooden stairway to access the entrance, steps have been cut into or built over stones from the pyramid. The passageway is typical (3 feet high and about 4 feet wide) requiring the same backwards, stooped walk to which we’re now accustomed. Again, we leave our extraneous things (water bottles, hats, and sunglasses) with Vivian before venturing (backwards) into the pyramid.
At the bottom of the incline a short horizontal passageway leads into a chamber with a 40 foot high corbel vault ceiling. At the far corner of the chamber there is a very narrow and low passageway created by overhanging massive stone blocks that leads into a second chamber. This chamber is similar to the first, and is situated directly beneath the apex of the pyramid. These two chambers have their long axis aligned north-south.
A wooden staircase to high up the wall of the second chamber leads to a third chamber that is aligned east-west, and most likely was have the burial chamber of the pyramid. Unlike the other two chambers that have incredibly smooth floors on the same level as the access passageway, this one is very rough and sunk below the level of the passageway, and believed to be the result of robbers searching for treasure. Back at the first chamber, several from our group have begun toning. As others of us arrive our voices blend. Beautiful! |
Sakkara Restaurant
Once we exit the Red Pyramid, Vivian instructs (mache, mache) us to head back to the bus as it is time for lunch. Feeling peckish, she passes around some snacks.
Our destination is Sakkara Restaurant (Saqqara). After the bus lets us off, we walk down a dozen or so stairs, drawn by the smell of fresh baking bread. To our left an Egyptian woman sits making incredible pita-like bread in a fire-heated oven. The restaurant itself is made up of long community tables. To my delight, they serve fresh mango juice!
Back on the bus, we drove into Cairo to the Mosque-Madrassa of Sultan Hasan.
Mosque-Madrassa of Sultan Hassan
Cairo, I’ve learned, is an Arab creation. It was founded by Arab conquerers and is home to many mosques and madrassas. It is also the headquarters of the Arab League. But, Cairo is more than an Arab city, it embodies many different histories and traditions that both influence and contradict.
Considered remarkable for its massive size and innovative architectural components, the Mosque-Madrassa of Sultan Hassan is still thought to be one of the most impressive historic monuments in Cairo.
The Mosque is located near the Citadel of Cairo, a medieval Islamic-era fortification built in 1176-1183AD by Salah ad-Din, further developed by subsequent Egyptian rulers, and was the seat of Egyptian government for nearly 700 years (13th to 19th centuries).
The mosque stands on the site of a lavish palace that had previously been built by Hasan’s father for one of his amirs. The palace was demolished to make way for the mosque. Like all mosques, it is oriented towards Mecca. The top edge of the exterior facades are crowned by a thick cornice of muqarnas (stalactite-like carving), which was an unprecedented feature in Mamluk architecture. Similarly, a crest of fleur-de-lis-shaped crenelations also run along the whole length at the very top edge of the walls. Today, the mosque has two minarets flanking the mausoleum chamber. |
It originally was designed to have an unprecedented four- but after one collapsed killing 300 adults and children, the plans to build the other two minarets were abandoned. The entrance portal is is ginormous by standards of mosque architecture at 125-feet tall. It was built at an angle projecting outwards from the rest of the wall so to be visible from the Citadel. While the exterior walls of the mosque are in stone, much of the interior is brick with facades covered in stucco and finished with stonework for decorative details. |
The vestibule chamber is an ornate space, covered by a small central dome ceiling surrounded by elaborate muqarnas vaults. The back wall facing the entrance portal is covered in marble paneling. In the middle is a square panel of inlaid white and red marble in a geometric pattern of Syrian style. Flanking that are marble panels with other carved patterns.
From this chamber an elbow-shaped passageway leads to the central open courtyard surrounded by four monumental iwans (vaulted chambers open on one side).Three of the iwans and the rest of the courtyard are plain, except for the doorways at the corners, which lead to the madrasa units with their own smaller courtyards. The doorways are framed in ablaq stonework (alternating light and dark stone that is reminiscent of the Duomo in Sienna, Italy), bands of stone inscriptions, and colored mosaics. The domed pavilion at the center of the courtyard shelters the ablutions fountain for washing before prayer. Originally the fountain was purely decorative and ablution facilities were located next to the mosque building. |
The floor of the central courtyard is of rich marble mosaics. They are in fact from 1912, though the pattern may be original from Sultan Hasan’s time.
The larger of the four iwans (vaulted chambers open on one side) is the qibla iwan that is more ornate and it is oriented in the direction of prayer. In the center is a diktat or stone transept. Behind that is the mihrab (niche) that symbolizes the direction of prayer and the minbar or pulpit.
The last room we visited was the tomb chamber and it is extremely extremely ornate. While there the mosque’s muezzin joined us and recited (sang) the call to prayer (adhan) — his voice was incredible and the tones easily shifted me to expanded states of consciousness. How wonderful it would have been to be there alone, lying on the floor and absorbing completely the energy of this holy site. Instead, standing with closed eyes, I breathed in the sacred sounds and held them for as long as possible in my heart.
On the bus ride back to Mena House my thoughts were in appreciation for the experiences of today. As much as I would have loved to stay in that sweet space of expanded consciousness, once back in our room, I busily started repacking. Tomorrow we leave for Abydos and new adventures!