Woke this morning after not sleeping for much of the night — a combination of all the sleep from yesterday, the air conditioner fan, and the drumming / singing in the wee hours of the morning from somewhere.
Having set my alarm for 6AM, I am first up. By 7:30AM, Gypsy and I head back to Restaurant 139 for coffee and hot chocolate (me) before meeting our group for a breakfast meeting. We are a rather large group of 26 from countries including Australia, England, Canada, Germany, Austria, and the U.S.
Having set my alarm for 6AM, I am first up. By 7:30AM, Gypsy and I head back to Restaurant 139 for coffee and hot chocolate (me) before meeting our group for a breakfast meeting. We are a rather large group of 26 from countries including Australia, England, Canada, Germany, Austria, and the U.S.
Almost five thousand years ago, the Giza Plateau became the royal necropolis for Memphis, which in the 4th Dynasty of the pharaohs was the capital. Here, the pyramid tombs of three pharaohs of the 4th Dynasty — The Great Pyramid of Cheops (Khufu), Pyramid of Khafre, the Pyramid of Menkaure — and the Great Sphinx. |
Standing near the Sphinx, which is part of Khafre's funerary complex and archeologists date to around 2500BC, I am mesmerized by its scale. Carved from an outcrop of natural rock, the Sphinx was augmented by shaped blocks around the base, the elongated body, outstretched paws and a royal headless framing the human face is over 75 feet tall and 187 feet long.
Between it's paws is a pink granite stele that was placed there by the 18th Dynasty pharaoh Thutmose IV after recounted how the Sphinx came to him in a dream and asked him to dig out the sand that covered it almost completely, in exchange for making him king. Thutmose did as he was told and built retaining walls to protect the Sphinx from sand engulfing it in the future. We learn that the Pyramids of Giza align with Orions belt and the Sphinx looks towards the horizon and, in the Spring, the constellation Leo. |
Reconstruction and active archaeological digging is evidenced around the Sphinx, as is scaffolding. Amazingly close by is a Bedouin neighborhood.
We also learn that at the time the pyramids were built, the waters from the Nile came up to the edge of the Giza Plateau during the annual flood. Khafre’s Valley Temple stood on a quay and served as a gateway to the pyramid, connected by a mostly covered causeway. Buried in sand, this was discovered by Auguste Mariette, in 1852. The other two pyramids had similar complexes, but their temples are not so well preserved
After the pharaoh’s death, his body was brought by boat to the valley temple for preparation before being taken up the causeway and buried under, or in some cases within, the pyramid. These mortuary temples were maintained for many years afterwards with priests making daily offerings to the dead god-pharaoh. The pharaoh’s close family and royal court were buried in satellite pyramids and low box-like stone tombs called mastabas nearby, symbolically seeking to share in the pharaoh’s power in death, as they had in life. |
Walking around we see tourists riding camels and horses, vendors selling trinkets, water and soda. There are also views of the other Pyramids.
On our drive to lunch, I am beginning to discover that Cairo is indeed a sprawling, overcrowded, dilapidated city that moves at a congested, yet frenetic, pace. In fact, I learn that Giza, where we are staying at the Mena House, was once a distinct town, but now an extension of Cairo’s sprawl. Curiously the few Egyptians, whom I’ve met, seem to be calm and mild-mannered people with seemingly a good sense of humor.
Lunch today is at the restaurant Andrea. We are seated at one of the long communal tables. After ordering a large bottle of water, I follow other women to the restroom, which is small and relatively clean. We are starting to learn that there is a restroom attendant, who, once they are given some money, gives you some toilet paper. It doesn’t matter if you’ve brought along your own “tickets” or pack of kleenex for that purpose, a tip is expected.
Since, many of us don’t have change or small amounts of currency, one of the women covers my visit. Thank you! Lunch is a set menu with various mezzah including baba ghannouj and hummus served with freshly made bread, a main of grilled chicken and beef with rice, and dessert — that I don't try. |
After lunch, which was filling, yet non-distinct, we head back to the Pyramids of Giza. There, we mount camels to cover the distance to the Pyramid of Menkaure. Though Gypsy and I previously rode camels in the Sahara Desert while exploring Morocco during the first Traveling Nuest’as adventure in 2014, this has a completely different feel about it. One that neither of us are keen about — especially after one handler hits a camel in the face for not obeying its order.
Pyramid of Menkaure
The Pyramid of Menkaure was the last pyramid built on the Giza Plateau. It is also the smallest measuring 216-1/2 feet tall and 341 feet per side at its base. Its once beautiful exterior stone facing has been mostly removed. The lower portion of the pyramid is made of blocks of red Aswan granite, while the upper portion is built from white Tura limestone. Menkaure was the son of Khafre and next-to-last pharaoh of the 4th Dynasty. He ruled for almost 30 years and was responsible for the construction on this third, and smallest, pyramid in the Giza complex, and the only one that still possesses its three satellite pyramids.
We learn about this pyramid standing in the ruins of the Mortuary Temple of Menkaure. Apparently there is some speculation that a change in priorities occurred about this time — the size of the pyramid was reduced, while its valley and mortuary temples were larger and more elaborate. Unfortunately very little remains. Building was begun in stone by Menkaure and completed by his son and successor Shepseskaf using mud-brick.
Disappointingly, we are unable to enter this pyramid that was “found” in 1837 by Englishmen Richard William Vyse and John Shea Perring. Its burial chamber is apparently more complexly structured than those of the Great Pyramid of Cheops and the Pyramid of Khafre. In fact, there are two burial chambers in the Pyramid of Menkaure — an original one, and a “newer” secondary one that is lower. When the tomb was opened, Vyse discovered in the “newer” burial chamber a basalt sarcophagus decorated with typical “palace facade” reliefs with a broken cover that contained a wooden sarcophagus and the remains of a mummified body. Sadly, these all were lost in 1838 when the ship that was carrying these sank off the coast of Cathage on their way to England.
We learn about this pyramid standing in the ruins of the Mortuary Temple of Menkaure. Apparently there is some speculation that a change in priorities occurred about this time — the size of the pyramid was reduced, while its valley and mortuary temples were larger and more elaborate. Unfortunately very little remains. Building was begun in stone by Menkaure and completed by his son and successor Shepseskaf using mud-brick.
Disappointingly, we are unable to enter this pyramid that was “found” in 1837 by Englishmen Richard William Vyse and John Shea Perring. Its burial chamber is apparently more complexly structured than those of the Great Pyramid of Cheops and the Pyramid of Khafre. In fact, there are two burial chambers in the Pyramid of Menkaure — an original one, and a “newer” secondary one that is lower. When the tomb was opened, Vyse discovered in the “newer” burial chamber a basalt sarcophagus decorated with typical “palace facade” reliefs with a broken cover that contained a wooden sarcophagus and the remains of a mummified body. Sadly, these all were lost in 1838 when the ship that was carrying these sank off the coast of Cathage on their way to England.
Pyramid of Khafre
Getting back on our camels, we next head to the Pyramid of Khafre. Though the dimensions of this Khafre’s pyramid are slightly smaller than that of his father’s Great Pyramid of Cheops, it gives the illusion of being taller because it was built on a slight slope of the plateau. For some unexplained reason, this pyramid was originally 470 feet tall, but now measures 447 feet with sides that are 706 feet at its base. Of the three Pyramids of Giza, Khafre’s is the only one to have some of its original Tura limestone facing on its topmost part. |
Before entering the Pyramid of Khafre, we learn that it was believed that this pyramid had no burial chambers until 1818 when Italian archaeologist Giovanni Battista Belzoni noticed an unusual accumulation of detritus on the north side and “… after 30 days’ work, I had the satisfaction of entering the interior of a pyramid that had always been believed impenetrable.” Once inside, Belzoni knew he wasn’t the first “discoverer’ of the chamber and that it had been opened and resealed long before 1818.
Though Belzoni didn’t find treasure in the central chamber, there was a pink granite sarcophagus buried almost level with the floor. And, with a healthy ego left his lampblack boast: “Scoperto da G. Belzoni, 2 marzo 1818” that is still visible. Interestingly, tomorrow is March 2.
Though Belzoni didn’t find treasure in the central chamber, there was a pink granite sarcophagus buried almost level with the floor. And, with a healthy ego left his lampblack boast: “Scoperto da G. Belzoni, 2 marzo 1818” that is still visible. Interestingly, tomorrow is March 2.
In front of the east face of the Pyramid was the Mortuary Temple of Khafre. Sadly, only a few traces of the structure exist including a block of pink Aswan granite waiting more than 400 tons. The temple had a large facade, with an equally large vestibule with 14 columns and a vast rectangular hall. Along the walls originally stood 23 statues of the pharaoh, all of which have disappeared except for a 5-1/2 foot tall statue of Khafre found by Auguste Mariette, in 1860, that was on display at the Egyptian Museum of Cairo and will be on display at the new G.E.M. (Great Egyptian Museum) when it opens. This statue is considered one of the highest artistic expressions of ancient Egypt. |
As the sun sinks deeper towards the horizon, we begin to make our way to the bus. There is so much more here to explore — if only there was time. Our journey will conclude at the Pyramids of Giza when we return to explore the Great Pyramid built by pharaoh Khufu (Hellenized by the Greeks as Cheops) on the last day of our adventure!
On the drive back to Mena House, we got to experience Cairo traffic after-dark! It has been a long day … we opt to head back to our room for hot tea and munch on leftovers from the day before. Then some reading before (hopefully) some sleep!