Last evening, Jessica shared that there is a Sunday morning antique and handicraft market every first Sunday of the month starting at 7:30AM. With that in mind, Gypsy and I were downstairs to request a taxi to take us to Toji-Temple, a UNESCO world heritage sites and one of the oldest in Japan. It was founded at the beginning of the Heian Period, just after the capital was moved to Kyoto in the late 700s.
The taxi driver left us off around the corner from the entrance by Kondo Hall, which is one of Toji's original structures and serves as its main hall and largest building. Merchants were still setting out their wares for sale when we arrived. Methodical, we started on the right side and worked our way up and down the various aisles created by the stalls. While there were lots of flea market finds, there were also some really wonderful things — porcelains, antique scrolls, copper pots and serving trays, etc. |
I fell in love with several painted fabric banners that I learned from a nearby vendor were originally used by a boys club. Since the stall owner was nowhere in sight, I regrettably found out no other information, including the price. I still regret not looking for the owner!
Gypsy discovered a series of old children's books — she purchased six, which are beautifully illustrated and in very good condition to translate and read to her grandchildren. My small, packable treasure was a small, beautifully hand drawn pattern book of kimono designs. Its binding is hand-stitched, and other than age-related stains is in good condition. The elderly Japanese owner told me the book was at least 100 years old. I haven't tried translating the text to see if there are directions for recreating the embellishment designs. One day ... perhaps. |
Feeling very pleased with our purchases, we taxied back to the hotel for breakfast before meeting our group at 10AM for the start of today's adventures. Breakfast was another wonderful (and different) variation of soup, salad, eggs, meat, veggies pickled condiment, bread ... and hot chocolate. All very tasty, healthy and satisfying.
At the appointed hour, we all met in the lobby and were told we would taxi to the Kyoto train station and from there take two trains to reach Tenryu-ji Temple. While in actuality the distance from our hotel to the Tenryu-ji is only about 10km, it seemed like a major adventure that lasted much longer. It did, however, give us an opportunity to observe others and get a broader appreciation for the size and wards within Kyoto.
At the appointed hour, we all met in the lobby and were told we would taxi to the Kyoto train station and from there take two trains to reach Tenryu-ji Temple. While in actuality the distance from our hotel to the Tenryu-ji is only about 10km, it seemed like a major adventure that lasted much longer. It did, however, give us an opportunity to observe others and get a broader appreciation for the size and wards within Kyoto.
Tenryu-ji is located in Arashiyama, a scenic area at the foot of the mountains on the western outskirts of Kyoto. This area's historical connections with Zen run deep. In the 9th century, Empress Tachibana no Kachiko (786-850) founded Japan's first Zen temple — Danrin-ji — on the present site of Tenryu-ji. After the temple fell into disrepair, it was used by three emperors spanning 1200-1339 as a detached palace. Tenryu-ji was established, in 1339, by shogun Ashikaga Takauji with the Zen master and founding abbot Muso Soseki, and officially consecrated in 1345. |
Since its founding, Tenryu-ji has been ravaged by eight major fires, the last in 1864. The Zendo (Zen meditation hall) was the only building to survive the last fire. Then, in 1877, most of the four square miles of of arable land owned by the temple was confiscated by the Meiji government. Upon entering the Kuri — living quarters — one is confronted by a portrait of Bodhidrarma, an Indian monk who, according to Zen lore, transmitted the Zen teachings to China 1,500 years ago. It was painted by a late chief abbot of Tenryu-ji and represents a kind of "face" for the temple. |
After taking off our shoes in the Kuri, we worked our way around the building and along a long, covered pathway that winds up the slope to the Tahoden with its hip-and-gable roof, which includes a worship hall with a wide veranda. Interestingly, there are shops near temple that rent kimonos and men's traditional clothing. It's fascinating to watch, especially young Japanese people taking selfies or portraits of each other wearing these outfits at historic and sacred sites.
The Sogen Pond Garden was designed nearly 700 years ago by Zen master Muso Soseki. This garden was the first in the country to win designation by the Japanese Government as a Site of Special Historic and Scenic Importance. It was designed as a strolling pond garden with a level path surrounding the pond that allows guests to appreciate the scenery from a variety of perspectives. It employs the concept of shake (borrowed scenery), in which the nearby mountains are used to give the garden a sense of added depth. The pond's name refers to a stone stele discovered by Muso Soseki while removing mud to deepen the water. It was inscribed with the characters for "Sogen itteki," meaning "living truth of Zen."
Next, we explored paths along the backside of the Sogen Pond Garden.
Making our way to the Shigetsu, which is Tenryu-ji's Zen vegetarian restaurant the was designed like a large temple and can seat up to 250 guests in varying size "rooms." Its located on the former location of Ryumontei (Dragon Gate Pavilion), one of the ten locations on the grounds identified by Muso Soseki as being of special scenic beauty.
As natural parts of everyday life, cooking and eating have always been regarded in Zen as forms of spiritual practice. The cuisine served harmonizes with Buddhist ideas — create satisfying, nourishing meals from fresh seasonal vegetables, herbs, and wild plants while depriving no animals of life.
As natural parts of everyday life, cooking and eating have always been regarded in Zen as forms of spiritual practice. The cuisine served harmonizes with Buddhist ideas — create satisfying, nourishing meals from fresh seasonal vegetables, herbs, and wild plants while depriving no animals of life.
After lunch, we made our way to the Hyakka'en or Garden of a Hundred Flowers. This garden, with a path that gently rises up a hill, was laid out in 1983. We followed it to the famous Sagano Bamboo Forest. All of Kyoto seemed to have the same idea of visiting what I'd expected would be a beautiful and relatively solitary meditative walk. |
Thankfully, at an intersection in the path, most everyone headed towards the path leading to an exit. Whereas, we continued uphill to the classic Japanese garden — Ohkouchi Sansou Garden. Built over a 30 year period by Japanese film star Ohkouchi Denjirou (1898-1962), his unique garden villa is located on the south side of Mt. Ogura. |
Oh-kohchi's inspiration for the villa originated with his dream of building the Jibutsu-do Shrine after experiencing a major earthquake in Tokyo (1923) when he was 27 years old. A major Japanese movie star at the age of 34, he began realizing his vision. Between working at the film studios, he visited the shrine and found inspiration through meditation and prayers. Eventually he completed the Tekisui-an tea room and Daijo-kaku temple on the property. Ohkouchi Denjirou's creativity ranged from movies to planning and building Japanese gardens. It never ceased until his death in 1962 at 64 years old.
Leaving the Tenryu-Ji Temple grounds, Gypsy and I checked out a number of shops before meeting back up with our group to catch the train back to Kyoto Station. Back in our Hotel Rings' 'hood, a group of us walked over to a ceramics gallery representing the work by Prairie's partner that is lovely. Fascinated by the second floor view of neighboring roof lines and a reflection of my hands in the window ... inspired an impromptu "art photo!" |
After stopping for hot chocolate and a cappuccino a block away from our hotel, Gypsy and I were still feeling peckish. After five days yearning for a hamburger and fries from our hotel's café, we ordered one each and headed to our room for a "lite bite" before we gathered to go to dinner.
Dinner tonight was at Sho Miso, a specialty miso restaurant offering white miso covered oden — and was awarded Michelin's Bib Gourmand in 2018 and 2019. The owner-chef had a fixation with oden — a one-pot dish — that she knew from a young age that she would open an oden restaurant. Stewed in a dashi broth — made with bonito flakes, kelp dashi and chicken soup — over many hours, the other ingredients (e.g. egg, veggie, etc) in the oden become soaked to the core. The special white miso used comes from Yamari Shoten, a famous miso shop in Kyoto. The aim is that every bite of oden fills one with delicious umami flavors. |
Afterwards, Gypsy, I and others from our group walked back to Hotel Rings.