Not having had much to eat since yesterday's breakfast, both Gypsy and I were up early. Dressed, we headed to the hotel's café — Common Well — for breakfast. Sadly, we arrived a few minutes before it opened, thought graciously were seated nonetheless. Having added breakfasts to our extra nights, the only selection we needed to make were our beverages. Gypsy ordered a latte and orange juice. Hot chocolate for me. Unlike hot chocolates in the U.S., in Japan, I soon discover, they are not sweet ... making them oh, so very yummy!
Breakfast was a feast to behold, and since it is one of my favorite meals, I was ecstatic! We started with a small bowl of vegetable soup, then a salad and julienne carrots, a soft boiled egg with sausage and bacon. There were also two kinds of freshly baked bread and yogurt with fresh berries. As I said ... a morning feast! |
Fortified, we headed back to our room to plot our exploration from a list of interesting shops that Jessica sent. Gathering up our coats and water bottles we are off on our first adventure! Our plan was to head back to the Nishiki Market, where there is a much different vibe than last evening. |
Our first stop was Artisugu, one of the oldest knife shops in Japan. They sell a large selection of gorgeous knifes — my favorites were the noodle knives — and cooking utensils. The shop was packed with people — almost claustrophobic. What's really fascinating about this shop is that once a knife selection has been made, the staff puts a final "edge" on the knife using both revolving and stationary whetstones. You can also have your knife purchases engraved with your initials. There are also some really lovely copper pots. Leaving Aritsugu, we vow to return when it is less crowded to actually shop! |
Next, we stopped in at the Kawasaki Kitchen Shop, where is a good selection of kitchen ware produced by local artisans. If there wasn't the outrageous cost of shipping, there was some beautiful dinnerware that I would have loved to purchase. After stopping briefly in a children's store where Gypsy purchases cute kimono outfits for her grand-daughters and a baby outfit for her grandson, we make our way to Mumokuteki Goods + Wear at 261 Shikbucho. |
Gypsy was all in trying on several outfits. I purchased a medium weight coat in a dark tan color. Gypsy bought one in black, along with a top. Having brought coats and sweaters to Japan, neither or us needed more coats ... but now we have two more each!
Weaving our way through the streets of Nakagyo Ward, we made our way to Master-Piece bag shop. I love leather bags. I have lots and lots. What drew me in was the stores window display. No sooner entering, I fell in love with a small, black Italian leather cross-body bag with a heavy buckle design accent. All the bags here and made in Japan and designed for everyday use. Gypsy also found a black leather bag.
Weaving our way through the streets of Nakagyo Ward, we made our way to Master-Piece bag shop. I love leather bags. I have lots and lots. What drew me in was the stores window display. No sooner entering, I fell in love with a small, black Italian leather cross-body bag with a heavy buckle design accent. All the bags here and made in Japan and designed for everyday use. Gypsy also found a black leather bag.
While making our purchases, we noticed a cappuccino machine and were told that we could order steamed hot chocolate and lattes. We placed our order, removed our shoes and stepped up to a slightly higher platform where we sat on cushions at a bar, with our feet in a "well," looking out onto a lovely winter garden. What a great business model! |
Looking for the Issey Miyake boutique, we instead found A-Poc Able Issey Miyake boutique (106 Fukunagacho, Nakagyo Ward). Introduced as a concept in 1997, this line of his clothing is designed to highlight the two-dimensional quality of cloth and minimize waste. The boutique is sparsely furnished with a very few styles lining clothing racks along the walls. Since nothing caught either of our eyes, we didn't stay long.
Feeling peckish, but way past lunchtime, we began looking for somewhere to grab a bite to eat. Wandering down Tominokoji dori, I spotted a restaurant — Yoshikawa — that I'd read a review praising this tempura restaurant, saying that it is mostly under the radar for tourists, and a favorite amongst locals. |
Needless to say, we stopped in only to find that it was no longer serving lunch and dinner was sold-out. Gracious as always, the kimono dressed hostess asked us to wait while she went deeper into the restaurant. A few minutes later she reappeared and asked if we would like a 5:30PM reservation eating with a few others. Famished, we said "Hai. Domo arigato!"
Still having about 2 hours before dinner, we started walking back towards Hotel Rings and spotted a sign saying Marie Belle Cacao Bar ... and couldn't resist turning into a narrow passageway. Founded by Maribel Lieberman, who was originally from Honduras, moved to New York to attend Parsons School of Design for fashion and design. Later, she opened her own catering company, which paved her way to discover a lifelong passion with chocolate. |
Maribel opened her first chocolate shop in Soho, New York. In 2012, she opened her store in Kyoto. A few years later, she opened more shops in Tokyo and on Ishigaki Island, Japan.
Needing something to eat rather than chocolate, we were delighted to find that we could order slices of quiche, a cup of tea for Gypsy ... and hot chocolate for me ... how could I not when all of their "chocolate is handmade from the highest quality single origin cacao resulting in rich complex flavors!"
We were fascinated by the variety and presentation of various chocolate desserts others nearby had ordered. All looked so yummy. After inhaling our very late lunch, we made our way back to the hotel to put up our feet for a bit, freshen up, and change into something warmer for the evening.
We were fascinated by the variety and presentation of various chocolate desserts others nearby had ordered. All looked so yummy. After inhaling our very late lunch, we made our way back to the hotel to put up our feet for a bit, freshen up, and change into something warmer for the evening.
Retracing our route back to Yoshikawa, we were found we were neither the first or last to arrive. Dressed in a kimono, our hostess for the evening showed us to our seats around the tempura chef's preparation / cooking area and handed us a menu to select our beverage. Gypsy and I started with a shared small size of warm saké. |
Our chef stood in "well" with surrounded by pots of simmering broth, the hot oil he would use to tempura, already prepared vegetables, and a refrigerated display case with the fish that would be featured this evening. Besides us, our dinner group included three Kyoto couples, a young gal from Taiwan and us. |
Our hostess brought us our sake — it was delicious — and condiments used throughout the meal. We were very watchful of the process of cooking, serving and eating the tempura. After the couple to our left were served two pieces of fish and a condiment each, I anticipated that we would be next. However, that wasn't the case. My next thought, after watching the couple across from them served next, was that we would be served in order of having arrived. That didn't appear to be the case either. In fact, throughout the entire meal I was unable to figure out the serving order! |
The tempura fish and vegetables were fabulous. The batter barely apparent, unlike so much of it served in the US.
True to everything we'd experienced so far in observing people during meals. There was very little talk, and when couples did speak it was so quiet that, even if we could understand what they were saying, we couldn't hear them.
About 20 minutes into our dinner, I asked the man sitting next to me what sake he had ordered since the vessel it was served in was so different than ours and we were ready to order some more. He explained in broken English, and with the help of Google Translate, to say it was a cold sake and offered to give me a taste. It was excellent and very different than what Gypsy and I had been drinking. We ordered a small bottle of it. This started our conversation that seemed to atypical by the way others were looking and listening to us. Soon others around the table started conversing with us. It began to feel like a dinner party with everyone having a good time, seemingly much to their surprise!
True to everything we'd experienced so far in observing people during meals. There was very little talk, and when couples did speak it was so quiet that, even if we could understand what they were saying, we couldn't hear them.
About 20 minutes into our dinner, I asked the man sitting next to me what sake he had ordered since the vessel it was served in was so different than ours and we were ready to order some more. He explained in broken English, and with the help of Google Translate, to say it was a cold sake and offered to give me a taste. It was excellent and very different than what Gypsy and I had been drinking. We ordered a small bottle of it. This started our conversation that seemed to atypical by the way others were looking and listening to us. Soon others around the table started conversing with us. It began to feel like a dinner party with everyone having a good time, seemingly much to their surprise!
After dinner the hostess pointed to where she had placed our shoes. Putting them on, we were shown into another area and motioned to sit alongside a huge tea kettle. Moments later we were served green tea and a dessert. Little by little others from our dinner group joined us. By the time we left Yoshikawa, completely satiated, it was pitch black outside. Using our phone's flashlight, since there were few streetlights, we retraced our steps back to Hotel Rings. I must say, for being a city, and walking through narrow, dark streets there was never a sense of uneasiness or not being safe. |