After breakfast, we head to small town of Remedios, which we are told is recognized as the 8th oldest city in Cuba, founded in 1514 by Vasco Porcallo de Figueroa. It is a lovely, quiet town that apparently comes alive each December when the Parrandas Remedianas Carnival is held. Our tour leader today, whom we meet at the town square — Parque José Marti — is a handsome artist, unofficial "mayor" of Caibarien, and who has been actively involved with the Parrandas Carnival for many years. This central plaza, also known as "Plaza Mayor" was restored in 1970 and is surrounded by colonial buildings, monuments, trees, palms and a gazebo. |
Remedios appears to be a brightly-colored building ghost town with virtually nobody on the street. It is a photographers dream in this way. Our first stop on the eastern side of the square is San Juan Bautista Church, which was built in 1545 and later rebuilt in 1939 after an earthquake. Known locally as "Iglesia Mayor," the church contains 13 beautiful gold altars, a polychrome coffered ceiling as well as religious statuary and relics. The main church was declared a National Monument in 1949 and the same designation was extended to the entire town of Remedios in 1980.
Remedios is the only town in Cuba with two churches on its main square. Across from "Iglesia Mayor" on the north side of the Central Plaza is Iglesia del Buen Viaje, which has been abandoned until repairs are authorized by the government.
Remedios is the only town in Cuba with two churches on its main square. Across from "Iglesia Mayor" on the north side of the Central Plaza is Iglesia del Buen Viaje, which has been abandoned until repairs are authorized by the government.
Thirsty, we stop across the street to a café that is crowded with men and decorated with old advertisement murals and newspaper clippings adhered to the walls and ceiling, respectively . . . very fun!
As a way to see and experience Remedios, we hop into bici-taxis for what turns out to be a fun and competitive sight-seeing tour . . . hold on tight!
Our first stop along this portion of our Remedios adventure is to the Museum of Parrandas where memories of past celebrations can be found in photographs, documents and hand-made objects, including a photo exhibit of last year's festivities.
Our first stop along this portion of our Remedios adventure is to the Museum of Parrandas where memories of past celebrations can be found in photographs, documents and hand-made objects, including a photo exhibit of last year's festivities.
Possibly the Caribbean's largest and oldest traditional festival — Las Parrandas de Remedios -- is held between December 16-26. Its origins are with Father Francisco Vigil de Quiñones, who was a priest at the "Iglesia Mayor." He encouraged a group of youngsters to go out and make a racket in the streets to wake up residents using whistles, horns and tin cans so they would attend the "Misa de Gallo" (midnight mass). The following year, the residents got their revenge with noise even more deafening. In the late 1800s, the "parrandas" adopted the festival structure that continues today.
According to tradition, when the bells toll at 9PM on December 24, two neighborhoods — San Salvador and El Carmen — meet up in Parque José Marti, accompanied by floats, costumes and banners. Since the Revolution, the Parrandas begins on the Saturday before December 26, the day on which the town was liberated by Che's troops and ends in a grand finale on December 24.
The San Salvador neighborhood is represented by the colors red and blue as well as the symbol of a rooster. The El Carmen neighborhood uses the color brown and the symbol of an Eagle. Each of the rival neighborhood floats features light bulbs that are collected door by door by team members who fan out across their neighborhoods. The two teams loudly confront each other, making public their year-long secret creativeness and efforts, in a fierce competition until dawn using musical instruments, noise makers and fireworks. The head of the losing team is thrown a fake funeral on the last day, which the entire town attends.
Our next bici-taxi stop was to the Parrandas workshop of El Carmen where this team designs and fabricates their festival float. There we met with several of the artists including the lead artist for the El Carmen team. Go, El Carmen!
According to tradition, when the bells toll at 9PM on December 24, two neighborhoods — San Salvador and El Carmen — meet up in Parque José Marti, accompanied by floats, costumes and banners. Since the Revolution, the Parrandas begins on the Saturday before December 26, the day on which the town was liberated by Che's troops and ends in a grand finale on December 24.
The San Salvador neighborhood is represented by the colors red and blue as well as the symbol of a rooster. The El Carmen neighborhood uses the color brown and the symbol of an Eagle. Each of the rival neighborhood floats features light bulbs that are collected door by door by team members who fan out across their neighborhoods. The two teams loudly confront each other, making public their year-long secret creativeness and efforts, in a fierce competition until dawn using musical instruments, noise makers and fireworks. The head of the losing team is thrown a fake funeral on the last day, which the entire town attends.
Our next bici-taxi stop was to the Parrandas workshop of El Carmen where this team designs and fabricates their festival float. There we met with several of the artists including the lead artist for the El Carmen team. Go, El Carmen!
Back in our bici-taxis, we head to lunch at the Encanto Mascotte, a small, brightly painted hotel in the colonial style right on the Central Square. With a high-ceiling lobby and pretty courtyard, the food was typical thus far on our trip — rather bland and salty. There was though live music performed by three young Cuban men, which was quite wonderful!
A few minutes to spare before meeting our bus, I walk around the Central Square for last pictures.
Boarding our bus, we drive a short distance to meet with a local printer who still sets type by hand. Next, we head to the fishing village of Caibarién. It's entrance is marked by a giant sculpture of a crab. From this port a long dike (pedraplén) crosses the water. The roadway crosses about 40 bridges that allow tidal movements and lead to a series of small and unspoiled islands belonging to the Sabana archipelago.
The reason for our visit to Caibarién is to meet with members of an artist collective who have transformed a portion of a house into an exhibit space to sell their works.
The reason for our visit to Caibarién is to meet with members of an artist collective who have transformed a portion of a house into an exhibit space to sell their works.
The wind picks up on our drive back to Hotel Meliá. Tonight we are on our own for dinner. With anticipation of a cuisine not including beans and rice, we head to the hotel's Hibachi restaurant . . . We are seated at one of many hibachi stations with 6 others. After ordering drinks, we are asked to order our individually prepared meals — fish, chicken, port . . . rice . . . veggies. It is fun to watch the chef prepare our meals and it soon becomes clear that unless we say "no salt" the large canister shaker will inundate our food with it. Afterwards, we head to the entertainment pavilion for the end of a dance revue. Speaking with one of the hotel staff members, we learn that music and dance students from the nearby universities are hired each year to entertain guests. The quality of the show is surprisingly good, though campy. What's more . . . each of the entertainers look like they are having a ball . . . Too bad our local resorts don't do something similar to hire performance artists!