I wake before dawn and go out onto our balcony to mediate and greet the sun. All is quite except for some squawking birds in the palm trees. There is a sweetness to dawn here, the light is soft. Before heading to breakfast, Babe and I head to the beach for a short walk.
After breakfast, we head into Mahabalipuram. The entire city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and once a major port-city. Built in the 7th-century by Pallava king Narasimha Varman I, it is located on the Bay of Bengal. The boulder-strewned landscape was perfect for creating rock-cut caves and monolithic shrines, structural temples and huge bas-reliefs that are considered to be the greatest examples of Pallava art.
But first . . . a few words about Hinduism:
But first . . . a few words about Hinduism:
Hinduism is the world’s third-largest religion and is unique in that it proposes no one right way, no Absolute, and no single path to salvation or higher existence. Instead, they are told there are innumerable ways to reach the Divine, that God is both formless and formed, infinite and finite, the one and the many. What especially appeals to me is how closely it aligns with the cosmology of Andean shamanism. According to Hinduism, the formless spirit that pervades the Universe and beyond, and that describes all known and unknown existence is called Parabrahman, which I liken to the Andean understanding of illa tici Wiracocha, Philosophically, Parabrahman has three cosmic functions: creation, preservation and destruction. Unlike Andean shamanism, which is an animistic worldview rather than a religion, in Hinduism these have been personified into individual deities to enable people to better understand and interact with the Divine. These deities are described as having superhuman characteristics and serve as operating principles for optimum human behavior. It should also be mentioned that Hinduism has developed over thousands of years and while the breadth of diversity within this religion is enormous, most worship one of two cosmic deities: Shiva and Vishnu. Each represents the blend of opposites in perfect balance: masculine and feminine; right and wrong; good and evil; black and white. Again, closely aligning with the Andean organizing principle of complementary opposites (yanantin and masintin). Each supreme deity has numerous identities of Gods and Goddesses who have their own adherents and specific rituals of worship (puja). This pilgrimage is called “Shiva Dancing” and honors Lord Shiva, who is often described as “the Creator and Destroyer” whose razor-edge balance between chaos and bliss maintains the cycles of life and death in constant flux. It is the same journey I have been engaged through my studies and apprenticeship in Andean shamanism |
With this in mind, I begin my pilgrimage to develop a relationship with Shiva and pay homage at the great temple sites and spiritual power places of South India.
Our first stop is the celebrated bas-relief known Bhagiratha's Penance or the Descent of the Ganges, which is carved on a huge rock with a natural vertical cleft that symbolizes the Ganges. The carvings depict the story of the sacred river's descent from the sky. This divine act is made possible by the penance of the sage Bhagiratha and is witnessed by celestial and semi-celestial beings, ascetics, and animals.
Next, we walk over to the unfinished Panch Pandava Cave Temple. I love the rawness of this temple. Every stroke taken to carve the temple out of granite and can be seen and appreciated.
The next temple is Krishna Mandapa, which has a huge bas-relief depicting the god lifting Mount Govardhan to protect the people from torrential rains. There are also carvings of Krishna performing his tasks with a cow herd.
Walking to the last cave temple on our morning itinerary, we pass food stalls (more water) and scores of stone carving workshops that are carrying forward the tradition — if only there was more time to look around and watch the stone carvers at work!
I am increasingly enamored with the Indian women who are all so lovely with their blue-black hair and colorful saris.
I am increasingly enamored with the Indian women who are all so lovely with their blue-black hair and colorful saris.
Walking uphill to the Mahishasuramardini Cave Temple, the Olakkanatha Temple that was once used as a lighthouse is visible. Inside the cave temple is a gorgeous bas-relief that portrays the Goddess Durga (feminine) on her lion mount subduing the buffalo-headed demon, Marisha (masculine). Andrew tells us that in slaying the demon, Durga is slaying the masculine not out of hate, but to liberate her complementary opposite to attain his full potential.
Back on the bus . . . oh, how good the air conditioning feels . . . we drive a short distance to the Mahabalipuram’s famous Shore Temple, a complex of temples and shrines built in 700-728AD by King Narasimhavarman II. Dramatically sited on a promontory overlooking the shore of the Bay of Bengal, the temple complex was constructed with blocks of granite that have withstood the ravages of time and erosion from wind and water. It is also one of the oldest structural (not rock-cut) stone temples of South India. All three temples of the Shore Temple complex are built on the same platform, which is surrounded by a low wall with rows of sculptures of Nandi (bulls), the mount of Shiva, as well as Yalis and Varahas (boars). The main temple, closest to the water, is octagonal in shape and dedicated to Shiva as is the smaller one. Between the two is a smaller shrine dedicated to a reclining Vishnu.
The main temple faces east so that the sun rays shine on the main deity of Shiva Linga, a 16-faceted polished linga. A linga is a column-shaped stone, metal or clay form that impregnates the floor or ground, and is often depicted rising up from an egg-shaped vessel or delineation marked onto the earth. In every Shaivite Hindu temple the linga is the symbol of Lord Shiva, the Formless All-pervasive Reality.
The main temple faces east so that the sun rays shine on the main deity of Shiva Linga, a 16-faceted polished linga. A linga is a column-shaped stone, metal or clay form that impregnates the floor or ground, and is often depicted rising up from an egg-shaped vessel or delineation marked onto the earth. In every Shaivite Hindu temple the linga is the symbol of Lord Shiva, the Formless All-pervasive Reality.
As recent as 1990, a miniature shrine in a well-type enclosure was discovered by the Archaeological Survey of India. Dated to the Pallava King Narasimhavarman Mamalla’s reign (638-660AD). This miniature shrine is also dedicated to Shiva and has a sixteen-sided base which is carved from bedrock with images of Ganesh, one of Hinduism’s most popular deities. The chubby, gentle, wise elephant-headed Ganesh is the remover of obstacles, the patron of learning. |
Some say, Ganesh was Shiva’s son, while others claim that Ganesh was created by the goddess Parvati, Shiva’s consort, to guard the door while she bathed. Legend says that when Shiva was refused entry to Parvati’s quarters by Ganesh, he lopped off Ganesh’s head. When Shiva realized he had killed Parvati’s son, he sent attendants out with orders to bring back the head of the first creature they encountered. That creature was an elephant. Ganesh was restored to life and rewarded for his courage by being made lord of wisdom, accomplishments, new beginnings and guardian of entrances. We are told that Ganesh should be invoked at the beginning of all important endeavors or whenever we encounter obstructions. His mantra is: “Om gam ganesaya namah!”
A statue of Varaha, the avatar of Vishnu, as the boar incarnation of Vishnu stands behind. The elliptical wall has been dated to 700-728 AD. Hot and dripping from the high humidity, we head to the Raddisson Blu Resort at Temple Bay for a buffet lunch. While the lunch was delicious, I am so delighted that we aren’t staying at this chain resort hotel. Then, back to the Grande Bay for a Thai massage. |
| Truth be told . . . Thai massages are not for me . . . they are much to "brutally" physical. After a few yelps, my masseuse suggested a regular massage — perfect! Rested and relaxed, once it “cools down” a bit, Babe, Helen, Carly and I walk into town for some shopping. I am looking for authentic tribal jewelry and find none. |
Others from our group drift into town and go off for a drink, while Babe and I walk back to the Grande Bay. Thirsty, but still not hungry from our big lunch, we head to the bar’s terrace for a tequila shost. Executive chef Dhiraj comes over and suggests a few nibbles, which he prepares. Then off to bed.