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Exploring Noble Flavors + Aesthetics in Kyoto

Join Gypsy and Prism as we travel this fall to the historically rich city of Kyoto, Japan. Here we will meet and learn from local specialists, artisans and makers — from green tea and ikebana to incense and traditional / contemporary culinary experiences — and wander through bamboo forests and centuries old temples + gardens!

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Last Hours in Kyoto ... On to Osaka!

12/8/2023

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Yesterday we agreed to forego going to Nara — next trip — and instead spend a few more hours in Kyoto before taking an afternoon Bullet Train (Shinkansen) to the Shin-Osaka Station for our last few days in Japan. 
After breakfast, we  further explored the Nakagyo Ward in which our hotel is situated since there were so many more lovely shops to tempt us than we previously had time to visit. We started out early and walked to the Nishiki Market, which was quite empty at this hour. ​We made a few purchases at a spice stall, watched as shop keepers swept their walkways and cleaned their display windows. Stopped in at an Aesop shop with an intriguing sidewalk display that included a wooden bench and charred wooden beam attached to the exterior wall that held three of their lotions to sample. Holding their door open for customers to wander in was a golden medium size rock bound by intricately tied black rope. Totally intrigued, we entered the small shop and discovered a small water feature in the form of a old metal water pump that slowly dripped water into a wooden "box" with a copper basin. Turning, we were met by a lovely young woman who offered us tea and invited us to browse their beautifully designed shop. After making a few purchases each, we continued on our way.
We stopped at the children's clothing store we visited previously so Gypsy could purchase a few more presents for her grandchildren before heading back towards the Nishiki Market, which was now bustling with a noontime shoppers. Leaving the market, we stopped at a small restaurant for lunch. Opting to sit along the bar that faced onto the street, we had excellent people watching.
Back at the Rings Hotel, we picked up our carry-on bags stuffed with last minute purchases and had the concierge call us a taxi to the Kyoto Train Station. The staff were so gracious, I was tearful saying good-bye and told them I look forward to my next visit.
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Taxi to the train station, which thankfully wasn't overcrowded. The 14 minute train ride cost $54US for two first-class tickets. Our train was scheduled to depart at 2:25PM, which gave us 20 minutes to spare.
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Our extra day in Kyoto!

12/7/2023

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After breakfast, Gypsy and I arranged for a taxi to take us to Uneno Dashi. Not feeling up to visiting a few days ago, Gypsy was ready to pick up some of the instant dashi for herself and others. Yoshiko Uneno was there and remembered me from two days ago. Gracious as before, she gave us tastings of the various instant dashi products before we decided upon our purchases. 
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Yoshiko showed us on her cell phone stores in the US that sell their dashi products including: The Japanese Pantry (San Francisco), which she also tells us make "very great" miso and offers cooking classes; and Toiro (West Hollywood / LA), an artisanal kitchen supply store. Toiro's website also has recipes and a link to their YouTube channel.
After lunch at our Hotel Rings, we took a taxi to Fushimi Inari Shrine, which is an important Shinto shrine in the southern precinct of Kyoto. It is famous for its thousands of vermillion painted tore gates that straddle a network of trails that lead into the wooded forest of the sacred Mount Inari. This Shinto shrine is considered the most important out of several thousands that are dedicated to Inari, the god of rice.

As the taxi driver leaves us off at an intersection, he points in the direction we need to walk to reach the shrine. ​​The street is packed with people coming and going from the direction we are heading.
​Probably only a surprise to me, the plaza in front of the Shrine is packed with people — almost exclusively Japanese.
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As we experienced visiting the Tenryuji Temple a few days earlier, many women are wearing traditional Japanese dress.

​At the shrine's entrance is the Romon Gate. Behind it is the main hall (honden) Still not feeling one-hundred percent, and looking at the steep path and throng of people, Gypsy decides to wait while I go on. 
At the back of the shrine's main grounds is the entrance to the tori gate-covered hiking trail that starts with two dense, parallel rows of gates called Senbon Torii meaning "thousands of torii gates." Each gate was donated by individuals and companies, with the donors name inscribed on the back. Apparently, donations to sponsor a torii gate starts around $2,600US for smaller ones and goes up to $7,000US or more for larger gates. Unlike publicity photos, the trail is packed with people.
The hike to the summit and back takes several hours and along the way are smaller shrines with stacks of miniature torii gates that were also donated by visitors. There are also a few restaurants along the trail. Since Gypsy is waiting for me below, I turned around after 30 minutes having reached the half-way mark at the Yotsutsuji intersection.
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Midway up the trail looking down at Kyoto
Leaving the shrine, we walk almost back to the where we were left off a few hours earlier before we are able to hail a taxi to back to Hotel Rings. We asked our driver to leave us off near the Nishiki Market and walked the rest of the way to Hotel Rings. Later we ventured out to see the lights of the city!
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Shopping + Katsura Imperial Villa

12/6/2023

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After breakfast, Gypsy and I began organizing our purchases. Soon it became apparent that only my extra things would fit in the duffle bag I had brought along for that purpose. Our morning's mission was set ... we would head off to Kyoto BAL in search of an extra bag for Gypsy's ever expanding purchases for Christmas gifts!
Winding our way through Nishiki Market, we found our way to this fascinating store. Japan is so interesting to me in so many ways. Besides incredible respectfulness and graciousness. The Kyoto BAL's website, says to use public transportation. How incredible is that! Thinking stores here, like in the US, would be open at least by 10AM, we timed ourselves to arrive at that appointed hour only to find that it doesn't open until 11AM. 
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Our roundtrip route
Biding time, a few blocks away we found a French-style bakery — Shinshindo. It was founded in Kyoto, in 1913, by Hitoshi Tsuzuki, a Christian who learned the teachings of the Bible and modern thought, as well as having a deep knowledge of the French language and literature. Hitoshi longed for authentic French bread and is known as the first Japanese baker to visit Paris and learn about the making of French bread. After returning home, he imposed a German kiln and started to manufacture and sell French bread. One-hundred years later,  Shinshindo is still a family owned business. I had two savory pastries (my tea was never served) while Gypsy had a full breakfast.
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Inside Shinshindo
​We arrived back at Kyoto BAL a few minutes after it opened. The door was opened by a liveried man wearing white gloves ... we're definitely not in Santa Barbara! This department store is like scores of small shops within this eight-floor store providing uniquely curated shopping in each of its 33 "boutique" shops — including familiar designers / stores such as Jill Sander, Ralph Lauren, Diptyque, Starbucks. The original concept is a place where a lot of people — parent, child and grandparent — can get together, like a party in France. On the third floor, there is a shop where you can play table tennis, table soccer and board games. There is also a two-floor bookstore!!!
Not finding what Gypsy was originally looking for — we both found lots of other things, some of which we purchased — we stopped at several other shops looking for a large duffle bag. Finally someone suggested we go to the North Face store that we'd seen days before on one of our early rambles. Success!
A digression: I've loved each time our group — or Gypsy and I — have taken taxis or walked to various areas of Kyoto. It's wonderful to see and get a sense of the variations of precincts and watch daily life enfold — day and night. I have deeply fallen in love with Kyoto and already see myself returning and spending more time here, as well as elsewhere in Japan.
Back at Hotel Rings, we happily ate cheeseburgers and fries for lunch before meeting our group in the lobby at 2:25PM and taxiing to Katsura Imperial Villa, a cherished cultural treasure in the western Katsura district of Kyoto. It was constructed during the early to mid-17th century by Prince Toshihito and his son Prince Toshitada, the first and second generations of the Hachijo-no-Miya family as a royal retreat. The family line died out in 1881 and the Imperial Household Ministry took control of the property in 1883.  Since World War II, the Imperial Household Agency has been in control. 
Katsura Imperial Villa is famous for its migration-style gardens with their panoramic vistas of nature during each of the four seasons. The grounds cover 69,000 sq. meters (17 acres). The buildings are among the finest examples of Sukuya-style (Edo Period 1603-1868).

Due to technical 
difficulties, it took more than 30 minutes to sort out our group's private reservation, which allowed for more time to read about the gardens and increase my anticipation of photographing them and being inspired with new ideas for my own. 

I especially fall in love with the variety of materials and designs of the garden paths and the natural ikebana-style 
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Source: The Imperial Household Agency website
All of the food products and those created by craftsmen and artists are sourced from the Tango Peninsula.According to Wikipedia, Larry Ellison's 23-acre home and property in Woodside, CA is a replica of the entire Katsura villa. 
​As dusk descends, Gypsy, Nancy and I take a taxi to our final group dinner at Tan, which is located across from a lovely canal near Kyoto's Shirakawa Bridge in the Higashiyama Ward. The restaurant's founder is considered by many the doyenne of Kyoto cooking and the name, we learn, is from the Japanese character "tan," which means heartwarming. 
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While waiting for the others to arrive, we three walked along the canal.
All of the food products and those created by craftsmen and artists are sourced from the Tango Peninsula. The vegetables are farmed using natural methods whereby there is no need for pesticides as crops are cultivated in a way that makes the most of the power inherent in nature — no tillage, no weed elimination, no chemicals. A five-woman coop tends to all aspects of the farming process — cultivation to harvest.

Our meal, which in part was cooked over fire, is a central part of the dining room, which features only one table. The food was amazing!!!​
After dinner, we taxied back to Hotel Rings ... another amazing and well satiated day!
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Food to Flowers ... Part 2

12/5/2023

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Seanacey Pierce at Kinse Ryokan
Jumping into taxis, we were off to a two-hour intensive Ikebana Workshop with Seanacey Pierce, who with her husband run Kinse Ryokan, which dates back 250 years as a tea house. In the 1920s, it was turned into a dance hall and ryokan or inn.

Seanacey shares  that she is originally from Portland, Oregon and her back-ground is in book arts and printmaking. After her husband and she moved to Kyoto, she began studying and practicing Sogetsu-style ikebana under her husband's aunt, who founded this school. Seanacey received permission to teach ikebana in 2014. She received the First Rank Somu Teacher's diploma in 2019.
The origins of ikebana in Kyoto, she tells us, began more than 400 years ago and has connections to Buddhist cosmology, and the revolutionary flower art of the Sogetsu school. ​The Sogetsu school is grounded in traditional Japanese aesthetics while also proposing that ikebana can be done "anytime, anywhere, using any materials." The gives students the chance — no matter where they are — to see the seasonal elements of nature with new eyes, which open the way for unique and interesting compositions.

About 100 years ago, flowers arrangements were used both as offerings at Buddhist temples and shrines as well as decoratively.
  • First ikebana style is called Ryka. Priests created the arrangements with a high, medium and low element representing their three world cosmology.
  • Later, a Tea-style ikebana evolved whereby tea masters, rather than priests, created the arrangements that were used along with a scroll and incense to welcome guests.
  • The Sogetsu school was created by Seanacey's husband's aunt in the 1950s low elements, and larger scale. The arrangements are generally displayed in relationship with other simple elements such as a painting or a mirror, and the base for the arrangement becomes an active element.
Within ikebana there are hierarchies — a master and a disciple. As a disciple breaks from their Master's aesthetic, they go off and found their own school.
Traditionally, the primary element in an ikebana arrangement should be twice the height and diameter of the base. The secondary element should be 3/4 the height of the primary one. The lowest element should be a flower and about 1/2 length of the secondary one. Placement of each element should be done so that the arrangement is viewed from the front. All cut surfaces of the elements should face to the back. Floral frogs and kenzan are used to hold each element in place. Plant material should be cut at a sharp angle and placed straight down into the floral frog or kenzan. Once placed securely, the plant material can be angled. 
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Classical ikebana-style placement of elements
Once the three main elements are placed, you can add more flowers to camouflage the floral frog or kenzan. Camouflage elements need to be shorter than the lowest element.

In classical ikebana-style, up to three plant types are used. There is lots of flexibility regarding color. Always use an odd number of elements.
Gypsy and Prism's ikebana creations ... can you see our "mistakes?"
A fun and long day ... Gypsy and I opted to taxi back to Hotel Rings and, being our free evening, have cheeseburgers and fries at the hotel's Common Well restaurant.
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Food to Flowers ... Part 1

12/5/2023

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Unexpected start to the day ... Gypsy not feeling well, so she's taking the morning off. After breakfast I met our group in the lobby. Today, we start with a taxi ride to Uneno Dashi to learn all about this simple broth that forms on the culinary foundations of Japanese cooking. It's used as the base for miso soup, clear broth soup, noodle broth soup, as well as many simmering liquids to accentuate the savory flavor known as umami.
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Our host,  Yoshiko Uneno, is a 4th-generation owner, who with her husband Motofusa, are on a personal mission is to educate and encourage younger people to use high quality ingredients in their cooking. They consider themselves stewards of the earth and focus their company in the same way. Yoshiko is warm, gracious, passionate and absolutely dedicated to her mission.
She started off by telling us that their 150-year old company's primary focus is on konbu (dried kelp) and katsuobushi (dried and smoked bonito / skipjack that is shaved into thin flakes.​
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​Konbu
Konbu, she tells us, is the key ingredient to make dashi. They harvest both wild and farmed konbu from Rishiri Island, off Hokkaido's northern most point. 
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Diagram of melting icebergs and minerals from mountains all contribute to Rishiri Island's excellent konbu
Natural harvesting is regulated it can only be taken two months/year and three-hours/day starting at 4:30AM. There are also regulations about where harvesting occurs and how much can be taken. Men go out in boats — one man per boat — to naturally harvest the konbu. Women help unload the boats and lay it out on the stone beach for the rest of the day.
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Sources of Konbu
The Unenos believe the konbu harvested off Rishiri Island to be among the best in the world for flavor due to the cold ocean conditions where icebergs turn up lots of good minerals that feed the kelp.

In the case of farmed konbu, the Unenos believe the konbu farmer, like an agricultural farmer, has as much to do with the flavor as does the growing region. 
The source of their farmed konbu comes from a farmer who has been  exclusively farming for the Unenos for more than 30 years.
Konbu is harvested and dried during the summer. Aged for one-year in the dark. Then, wrapped in sheets of rice paper. Once the konbu is received by the Unenos, it is aged for another year, folded, and stacked. If it is not cured adequately, it is very salty and has less umami. 
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There are a few varieties of Konbu, each with their own unique flavors:
  • Rishiri konbu comes from the western side of Japan and has more umami
  • Rausu konbu comes from the eastern side and is lighter in flavor — generally, people in Kyoto prefer this konbu because they use lighter soy sauce in their cuisine​

Katsuobushi
In addition to konbu, a fish product is added. The Unenos favor katsuobushi (bonito, which is actually skipjack tuna), which is net caught for processing and line caught for eating, as is, in the very southern region of Japan's southern-most island. If unprocessed, it has a 25 gram protein content. Once processed the fish has a 78 gram protein content 

When katsuobushi is added, the flavor of dashi changes ... the Rishiri konbu becomes stronger, which works for Tokyo cuisine since they use a stronger soy sauce that holds up to the more intense flavor. Sardines or anchovies are also used as a substitute for katsuobushi when making dashi.
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There are two processing techniques used. In both cases whole bonito is inspected for quality. Then the head is removed, the fish is gutted and cut it in half to remove the spine. [Bones and heads are used for fertilizers and other food products — nothing goes to waste.] ​​​Once removed, the two fillets are cut in half again, which yields four fillets — two dorsal and two ventral.
 Then the sectioned loins are carefully arranged on trays. The trays are then lowered into a hot water bath that is just below boiling (70-80-degrees Celsius) for 60 to 90 minutes for sterilization and to hold in umami. [The water is repurposed to make instant raman since it is flavorful.]

After cooling, the small bones are carefully removed by hand, then a half to a third of the skin is removed from each section. 
Next the sectioned loins are “shaped”  using a skipjack tuna paste to fill in cracks and smooth out irregularities. This improves the ultimate shape of the finished product. This method also helps prevent any mold from forming below the surface. Now they are ready to be smoked.The skipjack loins are smoked using oak in one of two large smoking rooms. The loins spend two-weeks being smoked on trays that are continually rotated to consolidate flavor. At this point the loins have a 26% moisture content, dark coloration and are called Arabushi, meaning rough timbers. Any tar or fat is carefully scraped off the surface. And for the vast majority of the smoked loins, this is basically the end of the process. The only step left is shaving the Arabushi to be then used in dashi. ​
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Karebushi (left); Arabushi (right)
​The second process picks up at this point to make katsuobushi. The smoked loins then go through a fermentation process whereby they are inoculated with koji spores and placed in a humid fermentation room for 2 to 3 weeks. This mold helps break down remaining fat and makes the product more delicious. Next, they are dried in the sun before being put back into the humid fermentation room again. This cycle is repeated 3 to 4 times. After about 6 months of exacting work the fermented katsuobushi, now called Karebushi, are ready. The fermentation process has reduced the moisture level in the Karebushi to less than 20%. This is why when you tap two of them together, they give off a metallic clink. And when you split one open, the inside shines like a ruby. It is an almost miraculous transformation from what amounts to sashimi to this magical jewel of an ingredient. The flavor of the fermented katsuobushi is even deeper with umami. 
Dashi made with Karebushi is clearer than that made of Arabushi. Both are full of umami, but dashi made with Karebushi has a deeper, rounder, more nuanced umami. Depending upon what is being cooked, determines which process of bonita is used. For instance, Udon uses Arabushi; whereas Itzaki uses Karebushi. The market in Japan is 90% Arabushi and 10% Karebushi.
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Dashi made with Karebushi (l); Arabushi (r)
Next, we tour the area of their facility where katsuobushi is made into flakes for dashi. Yoshiko tells us that they process only a day's worth of stock to get it out quickly. The first shaving has a more refined flavor; the "chaff" is more subtle and higher in fat content.
Next, we tried hand-shaving a piece of Arabushi ... which takes pressure and a bit of skill. Followed by a lovely dashi-based lunch, and then ingredient shopping for pre-packaged ingredients to make our own and instant dashi packets for gifts.
How to Make Dashi Base
1 liter — cold water
10 gr — konbu
Soak for 5-8 hours on the counter. Konbu will expand. When ready to make dashi, put the ingredients in a pot and heat to 70-degrees Celsius (small bubbles on bottom of pan; not boiling). Remove konbu. [You can freeze the soup at this point and fish when ready to use].

When ready to finish soup and eat, heat stock to 90-degrees Celsius. Add 20 gr of bonito flakes — as soon as the flakes sink, the dashi is done. Strain broth.

How to Make Odashi Instant Dashi
Add 1 packet of Odashi Instant dashi to 500 ml of water. Bring to a boil and then simmer over medium heat for about 5 minutes. Remove dashi packet and it's done. You can add tofu, veggies, bonita flakes or whatever you'd like at his point and heat so all the flavors blend. [You can use contents of dashi packet over rice or veggies for a rich umami flavor.]

How to Make Miso Soup
Use dashi base. Put dark miso or a combo of white / dark miso in a small strainer. Hold strainer in your to with base and stir to blend together. Add tofu cubes.

Japanese Pantry (San Francisco) sells Odashi products. They also make very wonderful miso, and hold cooking classes. thejapanesepantry.com
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Today is all about Incense ...

12/4/2023

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After yet another different and delicious breakfast, our group gathered and taxied to the Shoyeido Incense Co. to learn how they make hand-blended incense.

We are told that 1,400 years ago, a large piece of fragrant driftwood washed ashore on the tiny Japanese island of Awaji. Realizing the uniqueness of the marvelous fragrance emanating from the wood, island locals presented it as a gift to the Empress Suiko. With this gift of precious agarwood began a new era of refinement and appreciation for the enjoyment of fragrance. 
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The burning of ground incense, in Japan, began during the 6th century (Asuka period) with the introduction of Buddhism. By the 8th century honey was added to the ground incense and made into small balls that were heated with already heated ash. Later still, the making of incense was  refined into an art form. 
​In the early 18th century, Rokubei Moritsune Hata began incorporating incense-making techniques he learned as an employee of Kyoto's Imperial Palace. He would eventually introduce a new world of scent to an audience beyond the realm of royalty. Twelve generations later, the Hata family continue to create an array of beautiful fragrances. Shoyeido incense is considered the highest quality, most natural incense available on Earth.
Shoyeido's blending process is an art form. Highly trained "masters" draw upon centuries-old secrets to create the fragrances. These artisans carefully process the quality, balance and ratio of every hand-selected natural ingredient using only the best raw materials. The slightest variation in amount or quality of any component dramatically influences the outcome. The subtle scents entice us to use all of our senses — what the Japanese call mon-koh ... "listening to incense." 
Every incense company guards their recipes very carefully.
Every incense company guards their incense recipes very carefully. Sadly, that meant I was unable to photograph the process.
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We are told that fragrances are made from listening to one's heart; not smell. Many of Shoyeido's recipes have a foundation of sandalwood, which comes from India, along with a blend of other natural ingredients. ​Colored dyes are added with the powdered essences. At Shoyeido's lab , the codes are made into the recipe, then sent to the facility we are touring for mixing with water and a natural binding material called "tabuko" to form the "dough." The "dough" then goes to a machine to create thin pasta-like pieces of incense that hang from a thin dowel. Next, another skilled worker lays the pasta-like string of dough on a wooden board where it is trimmed with a bamboo "blade" to uniform lengths of "sticks." Afterwards, it is placed in a drying room for three days. At each stage of the above process, the precious scraps are reformed — nothing is wasted!

There are inspections for quality along the way. After drying, there are other workers who weigh and bundle the sticks of incense. Others hand-fold boxes to hold the incense, and finally still other workers fill the boxes.

Agarwood is also used as a foundation. It is a resinous wood, which is found only in Viet Nam and the Indonesia jungles. Kyara is the most resinous and highly prized type of agarwood. Because it can't be planted, its harvest and use is closely monitored by the Convention of International Trade of Endangered Species (CITES). And, though agarwood is not considered endangered, it is being closely watched.

Today, Buddhist temples use larger sticks of incense — some serve as "timers" for meditation — for instance, incense can have varying burn life (e.g. 3 hrs, 8hrs, etc.). Incense can also be used in making candies, in which case they are made with honey as a binding agent and for sweetness.

Like tea ceremony and flower arrangement, Koh-do or incense ceremony is an important tradition in Japan for the past five centuries. Koh-do is always presented by a licensed practitioner, who has graduated from koh schools. Most incense ceremonies involve a game in which participants attempt to guess the scent being burned. Though steeped in tradition and protocol, the ceremonies are primarily to have fun and learn to "listen" to incense.
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After making purchases in Shoyeido's showroom, we headed to an incense making workshop at POJ Studio. First thought, we stopped in their beautiful store where I lusted after the gorgeous wooden dinnerware and cutlery made of rare striped ebony by Wataru Sakai, a woodcraft artisan based in Fukuoka, Japan. 

I did purchase for gifts some of their beautiful Leaf Incense - Sugi (cedar) with the scent of Japanese forests, shuro scrubbing brushes made from hemp palm by Yamamoto Katsuosuke Shoten in Wakayama Prefecture.
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After shopping, it was time to begin our two-hour incense making workshop. We learn that in the 6th century incense came to Japan via China and Korea through Buddhism. Incense can be found in stick, coil and cone forms. Cone incense, which we learned to make, are used when you want the scent to increase over time.

For this workshop, we were given an incense kit that includes incense powder, a cone-shaped mold, gloves, mortar and pestle, aroma oil — I chose to work with Yuzu scented oil — and a non-flammable mat. The kit is produced in collaboration with the Fukunaga family, a 120 year old business based in Awaji Island, a region said to be the original birthplace of incense in Japan.
Around the corner from POJ Studio and Shop is their café, which serves lovely food and the best orange juice and ginger carrot soup!
Having sat for a good part of the day, Gypsy, I and others decided to walk back to Hotel Rings. Enrobe, we stopped off  at O'Kaffe Roasting Park (51 Kameyacho, Shimogyo Ward) for cappuccinos, a really yummy hot chocolate and pastries. They have a lovely second floor outside deck that was perfect before navigating our way back to the hotel.
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A bit of a rest up and change of clothes, before we met our group in the hotel lobby to walk to the Gion section of Kyoto for tonight's dinner at Gion Tempura Kokomo. The Gion district is on the east side of the Kamo river, its charming and historic atmosphere has strong ties to the world of traditional Japanese arts geisha, and the many old machiya (wooden townhouses). Walking to the restaurant with the bright lights of the city street along the main thoroughfare is a stark contrastswith the dark streets of Gion.
Tempura is just what I had been craving since our second night in Kyoto, and Gion Tempura Kokomo did not disappoint. Quite the contrary. It is a charming restaurant and the food and presentation is outstanding!

Sitting at the bar, we had front row seats as the chef and his assistants created course after course of appetizers (, tempura, soup, more tempura, their speciality eel rice (outstanding), and a ripe persimmon for dessert.

I was so caught up in the fabulous cuisine, I neglected to take photos of each dish ...  trust me they were all fantastic!
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After two glasses of wine and some saké, our walk back to the hotel was a blur ...
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Temple, Gardens + Villa

12/3/2023

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Last evening, Jessica shared that there is a Sunday morning antique and handicraft market every first Sunday of the month starting at 7:30AM. ​With that in mind, Gypsy and I were downstairs to request a taxi to take us to Toji-Temple, a UNESCO world heritage sites and one of the oldest in Japan. It was founded at the beginning of the Heian Period, just after the capital was moved to Kyoto in the late 700s.
The taxi driver left us off around the corner from the entrance by Kondo Hall, which is one of Toji's original structures and serves as its main hall and largest building. Merchants were still setting out their wares for sale when we arrived. Methodical, we started on the right side and worked our way up and down the various aisles created by the stalls. ​While there were lots of flea market finds, there were also some really wonderful things — porcelains, antique scrolls, copper pots and serving trays, etc.​
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Kondo Hall - Toji Temple
 I fell in love with several painted fabric banners that I learned from a nearby vendor were originally used by a boys club. Since the stall owner was nowhere in sight, I regrettably found out no other information, including the price. I still regret not looking for the owner!
Gypsy discovered a series of old children's books — she purchased six, which are beautifully illustrated and in very good condition to translate and read to her grandchildren.

My small, packable treasure was a small, beautifully hand drawn pattern book of kimono designs. Its binding is hand-stitched, and other than age-related stains is in good condition. The elderly Japanese owner told me the book was at least 100 years old. I haven't tried translating the text to see if there are directions for recreating the embellishment designs. One day ... perhaps.
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Feeling very pleased with our purchases, we taxied back to the hotel for breakfast before meeting our group at 10AM for the start of today's adventures. Breakfast was another wonderful (and different) variation of soup, salad, eggs, meat, veggies pickled condiment, bread ... and hot chocolate. All very tasty, healthy and satisfying.

At the appointed hour, we all met in the lobby and were told we would taxi to the Kyoto train station and from there take two trains to reach Tenryu-ji Temple. While in actuality the distance from our hotel to the Tenryu-ji is only about 10km, it seemed like a major adventure that lasted much longer. It did, however, give us an opportunity to observe others and get a broader appreciation for the size and wards within Kyoto.
Tenryu-ji is located in Arashiyama, a scenic area at the foot of the mountains on the western outskirts of Kyoto. This area's historical connections with Zen run deep. In the 9th century, Empress Tachibana no Kachiko (786-850) founded Japan's first Zen temple — Danrin-ji — on the present site of Tenryu-ji. After the temple fell into disrepair, it was used by three emperors spanning 1200-1339 as a detached palace. Tenryu-ji was established, in 1339, by shogun Ashikaga Takauji with the Zen master and founding abbot Muso Soseki, and officially consecrated in 1345.
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View on our walk from train station to Tenryu-ji
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Bodhidhara
Since its founding, Tenryu-ji has been ravaged by eight major fires, the last in 1864. The Zendo (Zen meditation hall) was the only building to survive the last fire. Then, in 1877, most of the four square miles of of arable land owned by the temple was confiscated by the Meiji government.

Upon entering the Kuri — living quarters — one is confronted by a portrait of Bodhidrarma, an Indian monk who, according to Zen lore, transmitted the Zen teachings to China 1,500 years ago. It was painted by a late chief abbot of Tenryu-ji and represents a kind of "face" for the temple.
After taking off our shoes in the Kuri, we worked our way around the building and along a long, covered pathway that winds up the slope to the Tahoden with its hip-and-gable roof, which includes a worship hall with a wide veranda.  Interestingly, there are shops near temple that rent kimonos and men's traditional clothing. It's fascinating to watch, especially young Japanese people taking selfies or portraits of each other wearing these  outfits at historic and sacred sites.
Backtracking towards the Kuri to retrieve our shoes, we made our way to the Sogenchi Teien (Sogen Pond Garden), walking first past a sand garden across from Hojo or the Abbot's Quarters. Continuing around the Hojo, we discovered a newly married couple being photographed.
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The Sogen Pond Garden was designed nearly 700 years ago by Zen master Muso Soseki. This garden was the first in the country to win designation by the Japanese Government as a Site of Special Historic and Scenic Importance. It was designed as a strolling pond garden with a level path surrounding the pond that allows guests to appreciate the scenery from a variety of perspectives. It employs the concept of shake (borrowed scenery), in which the nearby mountains are used to give the garden a sense of added depth. The pond's name refers to a stone stele discovered by Muso Soseki while removing mud to deepen the water. It was inscribed with the characters for "Sogen itteki," meaning "living truth of Zen."
Next, we explored paths along the backside of the Sogen Pond Garden.
Making our way to the Shigetsu, which is Tenryu-ji's Zen vegetarian restaurant the was designed like a large temple and can seat up to 250 guests in varying size "rooms." Its located on the former location of Ryumontei (Dragon Gate Pavilion), one of the ten locations on the grounds identified by Muso Soseki as being of special scenic beauty.

As natural parts of everyday life, cooking and eating have always been regarded in Zen as forms of spiritual practice. The cuisine served harmonizes with Buddhist ideas — create satisfying, nourishing meals from fresh seasonal vegetables, herbs, and wild plants while depriving no animals of life. 
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Typical image of Sagano Bamboo Forest
After lunch, we made our way to the Hyakka'en or Garden of a Hundred Flowers. This garden, with a path that gently rises up a hill, was laid out in 1983. We followed it to the famous Sagano Bamboo Forest. All of Kyoto seemed to have the same idea of visiting what I'd expected would be a beautiful and relatively solitary meditative walk.
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Our experience ... our trip curator Prairie on left
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Thankfully, at an intersection in the path, most everyone headed towards the path leading to an exit. Whereas, we continued uphill to the classic Japanese garden — Ohkouchi Sansou Garden. Built over a 30 year period by Japanese film star Ohkouchi Denjirou (1898-1962), his unique garden villa is located on the south side of Mt. Ogura. 
Oh-kohchi's inspiration for the villa originated with his dream of building the Jibutsu-do Shrine after experiencing a major earthquake in Tokyo (1923) when he was 27 years old. A major Japanese movie star at the age of 34, he began realizing his vision. Between working at the film studios, he visited the shrine and found inspiration through meditation and prayers. Eventually he completed the Tekisui-an tea room and Daijo-kaku temple on the property. Ohkouchi Denjirou's creativity ranged from movies to planning and building Japanese gardens. It never ceased until his death in 1962 at 64 years old.
By the time we reached the Sagano Bamboo Forest road, the crowd had thinned out. We still passed some people coming in, rickshaws transporting others, and a cemetery flanking the path.
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Leaving the Tenryu-Ji Temple grounds, Gypsy and I checked out a number of shops before meeting back up with our group to catch the train back to Kyoto Station. Back in our Hotel Rings' 'hood, a group of us walked over to a ceramics gallery representing the work by Prairie's partner that is lovely. Fascinated by the second floor view of neighboring roof lines and a reflection of my hands in the window ... inspired an impromptu "art photo!"
After stopping for hot chocolate and a cappuccino a block away from our hotel, Gypsy and I were still feeling peckish. After five days yearning for a hamburger and fries from our hotel's café, we ordered one each and headed to our room for a "lite bite" before we gathered to go to dinner.
Dinner tonight was at Sho Miso, a specialty miso restaurant offering white miso covered oden — and was awarded Michelin's Bib Gourmand in 2018 and 2019. The owner-chef had a fixation with oden — a one-pot dish — that she knew from a young age that she would open an oden restaurant. Stewed in a dashi broth — made with bonito flakes, kelp dashi and chicken soup — over many hours, the other ingredients (e.g. egg, veggie, etc) in the oden become soaked to the core. The special white miso used comes from Yamari Shoten, a famous miso shop in Kyoto. The aim is that every bite of oden fills one with delicious umami flavors. 
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Our route back to Hotel Rings
​Afterwards, Gypsy, I and others from our group walked back to Hotel Rings.
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Tea, Stitching + Incredible Food - Part 1

12/2/2023

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Breakfast this morning was yet another variation of soup, salad, egg, meat, pickled veggie and homemade breads. From all of our walking yesterday — my Ōura ring clocked an equivalency of 17.8 miles — I am famished!
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Our group was asked to be ready to leave for the day by 9:30am. This morning we visited Tearoom Toka (298 Shintomico, Kamigyo Ward) for a seminar on the history, culture and aesthetics of Japanese green tea. We are greeted by Elmer, who was originally from southern Germany, and a beautiful Japanese woman. Elmer tells us the tearoom is like a laboratory for Japanese tea, housed in a 100-year old Kyoto townhouse. The mission of Toka is to foster new understanding and tastes, promote sustainable tea growing practices, and a shift in attitudes towards “the essentials of food and life.”
After dividing our group in half, Gypsy and I and four others were escorted by the Japanese woman into the tearoom, where we sat at a six-seat counter to watch and learn the proper way to brew green teas in an earthen pot of freshly boiled water. Each tea, we are told, is special and how long it is brewed is unique to bring out the best of its character. We learn to brew their Sencha Cocoa tea — 4 oz of tea leaves per person is normally used (45 seconds of steeping) and for heightened flavor 8 oz of tea is used — and Hôjicha bôcha tea, which is a toasted black tea, the steeping time is only 10 seconds. Along with our tea tasting, we are served freshly made sweet mocha from a local wagashi maker in Kyoto — much too sweet and doughy for my taste.
Next, our group moves into a seminar room where we sit around a large conference table to learn more about the green teas produced. Brewing tea starts with talking to tea farmers. Because Toka  offers a wide variety of teas, it has relationships with different cultivars from several regions of Japan, and grown and processed using differing methods.

While fascinated by Elmer's sharing, my vision kept wandering to the beautiful courtyard garden that is visible from the conference room.
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We learned:
  • All of their teas are  grown organically — no use of pesticides or chemical fertilizers. 
  • The tea leaves are all grown in a single year and harvested once a year. 
  • The tearoom sits on a rich vein of groundwater that has been regarded as one of the finest in Kyoto since olden times. It is in this water that the teas we were served are brewed. 
  • Tea can be produced from plant flowers (e.g. chamomile) or from tea plants
  • Camomile Sensa is a Japanese plant that produces smaller flowers and yields with a delicate flavor; whereas Camomile Asami is an Indian plant that produces larger leaves and yields
  • Tea plants have a 60-100 year lifespan
  • The difference between green and black tea is oxidation; both can be produced from the same plant. Green plant processing stops the oxidation process
  • Stopping oxidation means destroying, through heat, the enzyme attributed to oxidation
  • Oolong tea is best green/black whereby the oxidation process is stopped mid-point
Two types of drying methods:
  • Iron Pan with tea leaves moving continuously for a more delicate flavor
  • Steaming for 20-30 seconds and then pressing leaves and allowing it to dry for a “meatier” flavor
  • Processing occurs within an hour or two of harvesting 
  • The best harvesting is generally in May
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Toka is also starting to produce bottled tea. They spent almost 2 years in research and development before bringing it to market. The shelf life unopened and refrigerated is one month; opened, it last up to one day.
We learned that the art of infusing tea is like taking a deep breath … the tea leaves unfold, the cells steadily and quietly open to the water, and the act of drinking tea opens our mind and senses to the joy of living in this world.
Before leaving, we visited the Nichinichi Gallery that is on the upper level and one of the finest contemporary applied and decorative arts galleries. On exhibit were the exquisite lacquer boxes by Takahiro Yamamoto. "Tea and Lacquer Art" featured a wide range of boxes for tea, utensils, special tea caddies (trays) and plates. A highly accomplished craftsman, Yamamoto-san, was at the gallery so we were able to meet him and directly praise his work. We learned that he has always been on his own path, opening new fields of design and expressing using traditional techniques of urushi lacquer art.
Born in Sabae, Fukui Prefecture (1967), Yamamoto started his apprenticeship with his father, Hideaki Yamamoto, at age 18, and started to work independently in 1992.
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His work is both delicate and sturdy and has earned him a high reputation among collectors. In recent years, he has taken on the challenge of creating innovative expressions using rare beautiful woods.
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Small tea box I purchased for my collection
Famished, we took taxis to lunch at Shinshindo, a bakery and café founded in Kyoto in 1913. Its founder was a Christian who learned the teachings of the Bible and was inspired by the saying "Serve God and people through baking." Having a deep knowledge of the French language and French literature, he had a longing for authentic French bread; he is known as the first Japanese baker to visit Paris and learn about French bread. Upon returning home, he imported a German kiln and started producing and selling French bread. For more than 100 years, his legacy continues on. 
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Tea, Stitching + Incredible Food - Part 2

12/2/2023

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After lunch, we took taxis to the Sashiko Lab (Higashiyama ward) for a workshop on this tradition style of embroidery used for the decorative and or functional reinforcement of cloth and clothing. It is often seen as white thread patterns on indigo dyed cloth.
Upon arriving, we were greeted by Kazue, who runs the lab out of her home studio. We learn that sashiko literally means "little stabs." Kazue also shares that she started teaching sashiko while living in Dunedin, New Zealand for two years with her husband and two young children. Since moving back to Japan, in 2019, she began teaching sashiko to tourists, and offering private art and craft tours. By February 2020, as a result of the Covid pandemic, all of her bookings were cancelled. 
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Kazue demonstrating sashiko stitching
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Sashimi — beautifully done
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Prism's work in progress
Creative and adaptive, Kazue spent the next three months developing online sashiko workshops and store where one can purchase patterns, vintage Japanese fabric, kits and supplies.

I was especially looking forward to this workshop as it had been decades since I did needlework. As an undergraduate art student — back in the early 70s — my artwork involved printing photographic imagery on fabric, usually old white cotton sheets, and then adding extensive embroidery. I would sit for hours working on pieces that took upwards of a month or more to create ... not the fastest process when preparing for a thesis exhibition.

I discovered
sashiko, unlike my early stitchery, is a much slower and more mindful practice — the size and uniformity of the stitches, and in our case following a traditional pattern.
Much to my surprise the taxi to dinner tonight dropped us off at Kyoto Station. Rather than walking into the train station, we headed instead into the Isetan department store, which is one of Kyoto's prominent shopping destinations. It has 11 floors with goods ranging from groceries / perishables / prepared foods to flower shops; from western-style clothing to Japanese kimonos; from a photo studio to kitchen goods ... and two floors of restaurants. There's even a shop devoted just to making and selling brownies!

Immediately exiting the taxi, I put my face mask on seeing the crowds of people entering the Isetan. Gypsy followed suit. Thankfully, Prairie knew the way to the bank of elevators where we crammed in with others to the 11th floor. Unlike our Japanese restaurants in the US, here restaurants cater to one speciality. For instance a sushi restaurant only serves sushi; no tempura, udon or sukiyaki. ​
On the 11th floor their are 15 restaurants, including our destination Kyoto Wakuden, a kaseiki-ryōri restaurant, which means every member of a gathering (such as our group) has a set menu. Thankfully Prairie ordered all but our appetizer, which we each selected, along with our drink.
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Kaseiki is a traditional Japanese multi-course meal of sequenced light dishes that includes three essential elements — seasonal ingredients, simple seasoning and mindful presentation (appearance and colors of food). It is considered a type of art form. Dishes are carefully presented on plates chosen to enhance both the appearance and seasonal theme of the meal. Dishes are mindfully arranged and garnished, often with real leaves, flowers or are edible vegetables sculpted to resemble natural plants and animals.

Kyoto Wakuden is haute cuisine, each dish was exquisitely prepared with a harmonious balance of flavor, texture and visual presentation. It is also has lovely atmosphere with soft lighting and views over the city. My apologies for not photographing more of my delicious dinner ... I couldn't wait to eat each yummy delish dish!
After dinner, we took the elevator down to the first floor, walking between gorgeously arranged fresh produce and prepared food displays to an entrance to the subway station. Another adventure. Clean, well-lit and attractive trains that whisked us within blocks of our Hotel Rings.

I'm finding, again and again, that I ask myself questions that I've no reasonable answer ... For instance, tonight sparked the question: How is it that restaurants here in Japan are designed similarly to those in the US — large, open spaces without carpeting and curtains — and yet they're quiet so that it's easy to carry on conversations, whereas often it feels like we need to shout to be heard in restaurants at home?
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Philosopher's Path + Ace Camp Begins!

12/1/2023

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Up early this morning and energized knowing that our Ace Camp begins later today. To start the day, Gypsy and I headed out on a brisk morning walk around 6:30 ... complete with winter hat and gloves!
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Morning walk route
Our route bisected the Nichiki Market to a main roadway with monorails raised above the sidewalks on both sides of the street. At this early morning hour, there is virtually no one on the streets, shops are still closed, and there is no traffic. After crossing the Kamogawa River, we headed down a flight of stairs to an established path that runs on both sides of the river. Incidentally, the river was completely devoid of trash. In fact, so are the streets with no public trash cans in sight. People are expected to carry their trash with them or politely ask shopkeepers if they can dispose of something in their waste basket.

Near the stairway, there is a striking statue of 
Izumi no Okuni, who is considered to be the founder of kabuki. At this site on the dry riverbed alongside the Kamogawa River, in 1603, she presented her Kabuki dance. Signage next to the statue tells the story of how at that time Kyoto was in disarray after the Battle of Sekigahara. Okuni, dressed for the performance wearing a flamboyant men's costume that delighted and caught the imagination of the people to tremendous acclaim. After having first gained fame in Kyoto, she and her troupe toured around. Later, in the beginning of the Edo period (1603-1668), onna kabuki, which was performed by women was banned as a corrupting influence on social morals. Men then took over, including playing the female roles and the resulting shows developed into the kabuki of today.
Back at Hotel Rings, we discovered three things during breakfast: 1) this mornings breakfast is not the same as yesterday's; 2) we met two couples on our ACE Camp program, who are friends traveling from Virginia; and 3) being their first breakfast, they were served what we had yesterday. Made us wonder if each day would be different or at some point we will repeat ...
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Before heading out on our day's adventure, we decided to get our Covid testing out of the way. One of the things I especially liked about the Ace Camp program was that it required all participants to test before coming together later today. Not having had Covid for the past almost 4 years, I am not willing to become slack now. Too much traveling to be done and adventures to experience! Both Gypsy and I tested negative. 
We arranged at the front desk for a taxi to take us to Ginkaku-ji (the Silver Pavilion), whose official name is Jisho-ji, is located along Kyoto's eastern mountains. It was so named in the Edo Period. Ashikaga Yoshimasa (8th shogun of the Muromachi shogunate) built his Higashiyama-den palace in 1482. It was modeled after his grandfather's retirement villa (Golden Pavilion), which is situated at the base of Kyoto's northern mountains. 
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Route to Ginkaku-ji
Yoshimasa became the head of his family at age 9 and shogun at 15. He spent his lifetime pursuing aesthetic beauty.  Art obsessed, Ginkaku-ji became a center of contemporary culture known Higashiyama Culture — refined simplicity — which had a broad impact on the entire country. The arts developed and refined during this time included the tea ceremony, flower arranging, noh theater, poetry, garden design and architecture. His palace reflected the essence of this style. After his death (1490), the palace became a Zen Rinzai School temple named after his posthumous Buddhist name of "Josh-in."  
Ginkaku-ji consists of the Silver Pavilion, six other temple buildings, a moss garden and a unique dry sand garden. Gypsy and I followed the circular route around the grounds.
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Our first encounter is a glimpse of the Silver Pavilion and a massive sand cone called the "Moon Viewing Platform". Just past this is a large, meticulously maintained dry sand garden known as the "Sea of Silver Sand." 
Behind the "Sea of Silver Sand" are the only other temple buildings that date back to its beginning — Hondo and Togudo. The latter is considered to be the oldest existing example of Shoin architecture — the architectural style that most contemporary tatami rooms are still based upon today. 
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Hondo behind the trees and Togudo to its right
Togudo contains a study room with 4.5 tatami mats, which are thick, woven straw mats that measure about 1 x 2 meters in size. Tatami mats have become so integral to Japanese homes that the size of rooms are commonly measured by the number of mats that would fit.

The path then took us through the moss garden, 
which features islands, bridges over little streams and trees and plants. Though I had researched the fall foliage timeline for Kyoto, I was unprepared for the stunning display of yellows and red!
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Silver Pavilion, city and mountains
Winding upwards on the path, there are wonderful views of the entire temple grounds and the city and mountains beyond.

As the path descends, we were afforded better views of the Silver Pavilion, formally named Kannonden (Kannon Hall). The two-storied pavilion is constructed in two different architectural styles and houses a statue of Kannon, the Buddhist goddess of mercy. Sadly, the interior is not open to the public.
Never having been covered with silver, it is believed the Silver Pavilion was so nicknamed more than 100 years after it was constructed to contrast with the Golden Pavilion. It is also claimed that moon light reflecting on the building's dark exterior, which once was covered in black lacquer, age it a silvery appearance ... a much more romantic explanation!
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Leaving the temple grounds, we wound our way through narrow streets of the northern part of the Higashiyama district to connect to the Philosopher's Path. The path's name is due to one of Japan's most famous philosophers — Nishida Kitaro — who was said to practice meditation while walking this route on his daily commute to Kyoto University.
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One of the many bridges crossing the canal along the Philosopher's Path
The stone path follows a canal lined with hundreds of cherry trees that are said to be spectacular during their spring bloom. The canal is part of the Lake Biwa Canal system that was built during the Meiji Period (1868-1912) to enhance transportation and provide Kyoto with more water.
Today, the path was lined with mostly bare limbed trees and few people. Restaurants, cafés, artist studios and boutiques are easily accessed along the path, as well as a number of smaller temples and shrines we did not visit. We did, however, pop into several artist studios and made a couple of gift purchases. Feeling peckish and chilly from a growing number of clouds moving in, we settled into a lovely café — Green Terrace — spending many minutes trying to figure out how to order online and then ate our warm and filling lunch staring out the floor-to-ceiling windows at the patio dining area adjacent to the Philosopher's Path.

At the terminus of the Path, we followed Google Map directions to Hotel Rings ... past the Eikan-dō Temple; skirted the Kyoto City Zoo; walked past the entrance to the Kyoto City Museum of Art; took a detour to look into a small pocket park with lovely statues; crossed back over the Kamogawa River; took another detour through the Sanjo Meitengai shopping complex where Gypsy bought some more lovely clothes. It would be easy to come to Kyoto — probably anywhere in Japan — and shop for fabulous clothes!
Back at the hotel as the sun was sinking lower in the sky. We had less than 30 minutes to freshen up and grab our new Merph coats and be down in the hotel lounge to meet our fellow adventurers and group leaders. It probably goes without saying, we were a few minutes late and the last to arrive — great first impression on our parts!
Our group is small and made up of  our workshop leader Prairie Stuart-Wolff, ACE Camp coordinator Jessica Steward-Crump and seven others — two couples, who are long-time friends (Virginia); a woman whose daughter works in collections at the SB Museum of Art; a woman from Brooklyn and another from Toronto. After briefly introducing ourselves and sharing a bit about why we were attracted to this workshop, we bundled up and  walked to dinner at Dig the Line Bottle + Bar. 
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While Prairie and Jessica ordered a number of dishes for us to share, we placed our orders for Japanese beers and got to know each other a bit more. ​First impressions ... this is a great group of people to spend the next several days getting to know. 
It was a fun filled day ... lots of miles walked, gorgeous sights new experiences, and the start of our ACE Camp ... I'm ready for sleep!
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    My "nuest'a name is Prism ... and like my name implies, my passion and dedication lie in collecting experiences, internal reflection, and dispersing light in its fullest complement of hues.

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